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Barrel Tuner for a break barrel springer

Hello everyone- I am David and new to this forum. I have 2 break barrel spring piston air rifles. One is a HW 30 that I purchased in 1979 and the other one is a HW 98 that is about one year old.
I have been looking at barrel tuners for pellet rifles. I am familiar with them on rimfire rifles. My question is this, would a barrel tuner even work with a break barrel rifle? Also what is the purpose of an air stripper and how do they work?
Any thoughts about these 2 questions would be greatly appreciated. I’m hear to learn, always loved shooting air guns and during winter months it keeps me sane.
Thanks and keep shooting straight!
 
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Hi Dave,

Spring piston air rifles jump a lot before the pellet is out of the barrel. This suggests that any device that modifies the barrel harmonics can both improve it, or make it worse. So, yes, an appropriate barrel tuner should be able to shrink groups on a "springer". This assumes you that you use an appropriate and consistent hold, else that could be the largest factor in shooting well.

Generally, springers shoot better when you use a very light hold, although that is not absolutely true for all springers. A consistent hold is good for all types of shooting.

An air stripper is basically a vented baffle, mounted a short distance in front the barrel muzzle. Its purpose is to redirect a large percentage of the air leaving the muzzle, away from behind and around the pellet. That is to reduce turbulent air from around the pellet, to reduce buffeting of the pellet, and thus to improve grouping.

The way spring piston air rifles work, they do not have much muzzle blast. This is because the volume of air they compress is not very large; especially for lower powered versions, such as the HW30. Piston bounce is another reason why muzzle blast on springers is less than for PCPs. But mainly, it is that very few practical springers produce more than 20 to 30 foot pounds. Whereas, PCPs over 12 foot pounds are very common outside of the UK. So, air strippers are more useful on more powerful air guns because they have more muzzle blast. So, much more useful on PCPs than on typical springers.

Mostly the concern is about "accuracy", or precision - or it should be. That drives the avoidance of shooting common round nose pellets over about 900 FPS in any given caliber (wadcutter pellets shoot better at much lower velocities). This max practical velocity threshold drives the "practical power limit" for each caliber. Yes, if you shoot heavier slugs they respond well to being driven over 900 FPS, generally up to about 1050 FPS. Pellets tend to spiral at ranges over 50 yards, if you shoot them too fast. Too fast is over about 950 FPS, for waisted pellets.

An air stripper has some mass, so attaching it to a low powered springer may tighten groups. Not because of turbulence reduction, but because of a serendipitous improvement in barrel harmonics. By the same token, mounting an air stripper could open groups due to driving less favorable barrel harmonics. All that said, break-barrel springers have heavy barrels, to act as cocking levers (compared to commonly thin PCP barrels). So, adding a dainty air stripper to a springer is probably going to do very little, either way.
 
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Hi Dave,

Spring piston air rifles jump a lot before the pellet is out of the barrel. This suggests that any device that modifies the barrel harmonics can both improve it, or make it worse. So, yes, an appropriate barrel tuner should be able to shrink groups on a "springer". This assumes you that you use an appropriate and consistent hold, else that could be the largest factor in shooting well.

Generally, springers shoot better when you use a very light hold, although that is not absolutely true for all springers. A consistent hold is good for all types of shooting.

An air stripper is basically a vented baffle, mounted a short distance in front the barrel muzzle. Its purpose is to redirect a large percentage of the air leaving the muzzle, away from behind and around the pellet. That is to reduce turbulent air from around the pellet, to reduce buffeting of the pellet, and thus to improve grouping.

The way spring piston air rifles work, they do not have much muzzle blast. This is because the volume of air they compress is not very large; especially for lower powered versions, such as the HW30. Piston bounce is another reason why muzzle blast on springers is less than for PCPs. But mainly, it is that very few practical springers produce more than 20 to 30 foot pounds. Whereas, PCPs over 12 foot pounds are very common outside of the UK. So, air strippers are more useful on more powerful air guns because they have more muzzle blast. So, much more useful on PCPs than on typical springers.

Mostly the concern is about "accuracy", or precision - or it should be. That drives the avoidance of shooting common round nose pellets over about 900 FPS in any given caliber (wadcutter pellets shoot better at much lower velocities). This max practical velocity threshold drives the "practical power limit" for each caliber. Yes, if you shoot heavier slugs they respond well to being driven over 900 FPS, generally up to about 1050 FPS. Pellets tend to spiral at ranges over 50 yards, if you shoot them too fast. Too fast is over about 950 FPS, for waisted pellets.

An air stripper has some mass, so attaching it to a low powered springer may tighten groups. Not because of turbulence reduction, but because of a serendipitous improvement in barrel harmonics. By the same token, mounting an air stripper could open groups due to driving less favorable barrel harmonics. All that said, break-barrel springers have heavy barrels, to act as cocking levers (compared to commonly thin PCP barrels). So, adding a dainty air stripper to a springer is probably going to do very little, either way.
Thank you for your knowledge and insight on my quest to understanding air strippers and tuners. Speaking of tuners would you recommend getting one for the HW 98? It is .22 caliber and shoots about 755 fps with 15.9 gr pellet? The winter is pellet gun time as it is too cold for the outdoor range. Thanks again, Dave
 
Welcome to AGN. Sorry I can’t help with an answer to your questions.
But there are others here that can and will help.
Thank you for the welcome! I shoot my BB airguns I’m the winter. I have not made the jump to PCP charged airguns. There is something about just a gun and a tin of pellets that I like.Cheers and Merry Christmas
 
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@Riverchef,​

I think your HW98 could benefit from a tuner weight. I suggest researching what others have used and found to work. It seems that an adjustable tuner is a good idea, so you can "sweep" the position from the end of the muzzle to find the best spot to use it. If you shoot different pellets the best tuning setting is likely to change. Especially if pellet velocity changes significantly, so a 12 grain pellet is likely to require different tuning to a 16 or 18 grain pellet. That said, you can effectively change the tuning by shooting different pellets, and seeing which groups best in your air rifle.

Of course, the best pellet's performance will be due to more than its weight and acceleration profile; and how that interacts with barrel harmonics. Fit in your barrel will be equally important. As would be consistency in mass, diameter and shape. In other words, a barrel tuner will not make rubbish pellets shoot well. But it could make good pellets shoot better.
 
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Put the break barrel in the closet. Buy a Diana 54 and install the tuner Hector Medenez makes for the 54. It works exactly as the tuners on your rimfires although adjustment is a bit different. Took my 1 inch 20 meter groups down to .30 . Any way you alter the point at which the pellet exits will cause accuracy to change, ie clipping the spring. Changing pellet weight is another way even if it's crude.