Pyramid air is so good about shipping. The order in place for the rings and pellets went out right away. Got to 1 hour away last night and now it is stuck. Thats how thing work sometimes.
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I used to fly plains. Now I race cars. I did crash a helicopter once.Yeah I used to fly planes. Not as bad as helicopters but close.
Yeah diagram / schematic would be great. I really want to pull a trigger assembly apart.
The biggest issue with them for me is scope height. I really don’t like a scope that’s centered 2.5 to 3 inches above the bore. It makes close range shooting difficult and just feels awkward.The biggest things never liked about the bull pup design was the cocking lever on the back of the stock and the sloppy trigger. This Underlever is great, and the trigger is nice. After my adjustments and pen spring mod. I think I want a little bit more first stage. Going to shoot it tomorrow
I am finding that out. I don’t like high scope mount.The biggest issue with them for me is scope height. I really don’t like a scope that’s centered 2.5 to 3 inches above the bore. It makes close range shooting difficult and just feels awkward.
Let me know the inside and outside diameter when your ready . I'll turn one up for you.
I'm a little late on this thread, but I'm currently modding a 1362S for my nephew. It was too loud for backyard use. I discarded the plastic shroud and made an air stripper/adapter for moderator. I cut down a pp750 shroud tube to tension the barrel with 2 bleed holes in the back, it has open cell foam inside. The trigger link rod is shortened 3/16" and sear engagement at 0.030". The sear lever spring (dog leg spring) tension was reduced about 20 degrees from resting position. The most tedious job was drilling the stock for over travel stop. I had to weld a 2.5 mm drill to a 2.5 reamer blank so I could drill from inside the stock. Then I had to break an M3 tap to shorten it so I could tap from inside the trigger guard. In hind sight, I could have just jamb to nuts on the tap and use it to turn the tap, lol. Also made a new butt pad to shorten LOP.
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Yes I took it apart to polish the sear contact point. The end cap was also loose on this, I replaced with the red nylon O-ring and all is good now. I want him to shoot this like this for a while and see how he likes it now, he did say it's much heavier than the Notos I lent to him as I work on this. Maybe I will turn down the barrel to 13 mm O.D. and make an aluminum hammer spring adjuster to reduce some weight on it.Did you take the trigger assy apart to soften up the trigger spring ?
The cap that covers the fill nipple always felt loose on mine, just needed a small vent hole and it fits like it should.
Hi, Mike, I have my underlever For a while I've been trying to tune it. But I found a lot of Hamer bounce. I was wondering if you Be interested in making me de bouncer. And if you were interested, how much will it cost? Thank you.Now you should make yourself a HDD (hammer debounce device) I did and my shot count went from 25/30 to 60/65 on a fill. I have the regulated version on .177 It also made the gun a lot quieter. I also made a "quiet shroud" for it but we can't discuss that here.
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I made a few of the adjusters
I bought the carbon fiber proof 22 mm and 20 on the inside and I think it’s a little too small now I might have to modify my silencerThe parts arrived today. The scope rings did the trick and I can see through the scope center. I also got the carbon fiber tubing and made so many mistakes I can’t even count them.
The carbon fiber is available on eBay comes in gloss or Matt finished . They are sold in short sections and cost under ten bucks.
Ok this is all good . They come I 25mm and 20mm. I picked the 25 should have gotten the 20 but it seemed to small.
First I cut the small tube behind the scope. I did not cut that perfectly to length. Did not think it mattered. But that is what determines the stock mounting holes location. I got it to about a couple mm. Really close and I had to just ream the front bolt hole a tiny bit. Otherwise I would have to cut another piece. Not a problem but cutting a perfect 90 deg with my tools is why it was 2mm short.
The 25mm tubing fit perfectly. I only had to trim 8mm of the end and true it up with sand paper. Then I tried to mount the Buck rail tripod mount. The 25mm tubing only left 2mm between the top and bottom tube. And the tube does not fit. I think the 20mm tubing would be better and float inside the buck rail mount. But I did a good job and bored the mount out to make it all fit. If I have to do it all over again I’ll Order the thinner 20mm tubing. And a new tripod mount . But this looks like it will all work. And most importantly I can see through the scope with the new mounts.
O and the factory shroud has ting ribs to hold it centered. I might have to make something to hold it steady.
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