Beeman Beeman 13625 Commodore

13575, 13585 & 13595 are the latest regulated models with a wood stock.

If you haven't tred Baracuda 10.65s you should.
U mean in .177 I take it. They're the only ones rated for long range in my .22 h&n sample pack and I was definitely thinking they're really good for .177 but I haven't yet got a .177 outside of my pistol replica.
 
13575, 13585 & 13595 are the latest regulated models with a wood stock.

If you haven't tred Baracuda 10.65s you should.
Also maybe you know, is the regulator adjustable? I'm guessing not and that it's the same throughout calibers but have no clues on this. I was looking at getting the correct Lane regulator to set one pretty low fps for a target gun, but if it's already adjustable I could bypass the Lane regulator.
 
I just ordered the regulated wood version on amazon. I confirmed the 13575 model number on amazon as well as the release date of June or July 2024, these are being sold as the Commodore (the wood one) and the Commodore-S (synthetic). It seems the Underlever name has changed to Commodore when it's regulated. I can't really confirm this I see the box. This nomenclature may not be common yet but I think it's what happened. Am I wrong?
 
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This is the HDD. 8 x 32 x 4" screw, 2 flat washers, a thick o-ring or piece of rubber tube, locknut and spring(s).
View attachment 463926
Assemble and preload the spring. Install and leave some slop where theq hammer slides back and forth about an eighth of an inch.

The screw will slide right through your original spring adjuster. No need to modify it. Mine got kind of chewed up somewhere along the way when they were putting this thing together so I made a new one.

I'll pull mine out and measure up springs measure the preload on the spring. Let me know when you're ready to start.
this is still confusing me. I have been looking for a way to get rid of the bounce in my unregulated underlever. I put an o-ring in front of the hammer after reading up on the B-staley mod and I am getting 60 shots from 770-790-750 its not as flat as I want. I am shooting 14.3s in .22 I can get a good 40 shots or so close to 770-780.
 
I just ordered the regulated wood version on amazon. I confirmed the 13575 model number on amazon as well as the release date of June or July 2024, these are being sold as the Commodore (the wood one) and the Commodore-S (synthetic). It seems the Underlever name has changed to Commodore when it's regulated. I can't really confirm this I see the box. This nomenclature may not be common yet but I think it's what happened. Am I wrong?
Did you receive the 13575? I am wondering if this has the larger air tube mentioned by a Peter Hernandez of Beeman at 2024 shotshow filmed by Airgun detectives?
 
Did you receive the 13575? I am wondering if this has the larger air tube mentioned by a Peter Hernandez of Beeman at 2024 shotshow filmed by Airgun detectives?
I do believe the tube is slightly larger. Can measure later. I know the Guage is now in the middle and I believe the tube is both wider and longer to accommodate the regulator using up space. Not positive but all sensibility says to me this is a longer airtube. Yeah I've had it a while and love it. Have a lot of respect for the gun's designs... playing with upgrades currently like a supressor tuner barrel shroud holder all in one. Just finished it actually. I'll post pics later
 
I will take measurements and post later of my 13615 regulated for comparison too
This moderator only adds 1 5/8” in length and is as quiet as my buck rail

It is designed by Cameron Kerndt the world champ
More soon and thank you for the measurements as i might grab a wood 13585 hence reason i asked
 
I will take measurements and post later of my 13615 regulated for comparison too
This moderator only adds 1 5/8” in length and is as quiet as my buck rail

It is designed by Cameron Kerndt the world champ
More soon and thank you for the measurements as i might grab a wood 13585 hence reason i asked
Yeah I'm getting an extention blank like that and drilling similar holes...making one from this... but in brass because I feel the sound will be warmer. Being connected to the barrel these metal ones really take on a lot of energy.
In my experience any and all 3d prints break at the barrel interface on this one. Sure it may hold a lil while but not long. Going metal w that part. The way the design is, it pulls at print layers if printed transverse and some layer eventually pops. Would have to be a sideways print or metal. Sick of breaking all my prints, especially purchased prints, so going cheap and going metal.
Screenshot_20250219_160123_Chrome.jpg
 
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