Beeman P17 Pistol (model 2004) quick review... Hint, I love this gun!

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Toys4LifeC5

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Nov 18, 2017
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Guys, I have had this pistol for several years now and for a low dollar gun you wont find a better trigger. Extremely accurate and the single shot action forces you to focus on you marksmanship.

If you are in the market for a new pistol (even if you are not) take a look!





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RxWWAfT3_38




 
Agreed on 95%. I've purchased a few of these in order to have cheap days of equal shooting competition with visitors, shooting at plastic golf balls, spinners, etc. Shoot "em by myself still when the mood hits. my only "sorta" disagreement is in your comparison to CO2 guns stating that you don't want to keep them charged. with proper use of Pellgun Oil I've been doing it for decades (on many guns) with no problems. But on every thing else..... "Yup!".
 
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One thing too look out for (which I didn't) was the off-center-drilled bore in the barrel. Got the pistol cheap, used, and now I know why. Never shot well, and since I got it cheap, no biggie. Also gave me an excuse to make it a .22. Took a new Crosman 2240 barrel and machined it to fit the P17. Few layers of aluminum/metal duct tape on the piston top and now I have a .22 cal P17 that shoots extremely well and still squeaks out about 350-360 fps with light Hobby's.



1575039741_13963190845de132fd1300e3.69574022_IMG_2525.jpg

 
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Bandg

Can you describe the 2 screw trigger mod, or provide a reference or link. And other mods would be helpful too. Thanks, I love to tinker, but don't know much about this gun. Just got last wek.
Click to expand...

I have slip on Hogue grip covers on mine so I can't get any internal pictures-they are nice but it's a bit hard to get them on and off. Basically, you remove the slide in metal rod that functions as a second stage trigger point from the top of the trigger blade. Then drill through that area and tap to install a screw. Try to drill so that the screw engages the side of the buffer rod so that screw walk is minimized. I've used 6/32 screws in all of mine. 4-40 would be a bit smaller and should work but I find the 6/32 drill a little easier to use. You can try to stay parallel with the existing trigger screw but on the other side of the plastic buffer rod that goes through the trigger blade side to side. When tapping I just go deep enough to get the screw to pass completely through the trigger as that seems to keep the screw a bit tighter than if you run the tap in all way. I also debur the edges of the stamped trigger components and polish contact areas a bit. This work is not all that difficult (a little care needed in the drilling) and allows independent adjustment of the second stage which makes for a very nice trigger.

It is also possible to use some stick on material on the top of the piston to gain a bit of compression and velocity. I've used aluminum tape for this and it works well. The cost of the P17 allows one to tinker without losing much if you mess up but they aren't that complicated to work on.
 
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Will do. GTA had some pictures and they may still be available. It isn't really that complicated but can be a little fiddly to get pins into position and springs in the right places but nothing too bad so don't hesitate to dive into it. A phone picture after grip is removed and some along the way will help your reassembly. I have a drill press with an adjustable machinist's vice and that is what I used to drill most of the triggers but I did do one by hand as well with a little care. IIRC I also dimpled the inner frame body for the spring end that fits there so it would stay in place better. Check the air tube for a bur at the intake hole and debur if necessary using sandpaper taped to a wooden dowel. Enjoy it-they are good pistols.
 
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