I recently purchased the .25 caliber model. The excessive hammer bounce was immediately apparent. Has anyone found a solution? Will the Bstaley mod work on this gun?
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Beeman Beeman Raider
- Thread starter xsarfc9x
- Start date
I'm working on one now. I ran mine back flush to the rear of the end cap and turned it in until it started to bounce than backed it off. Not sure what the shot string is yet, need to run it over the crony. Rick ran his flush on a .177 and apparently gets a good shot string from 2k to just above 1k for like 30 shots. Not sure how this will do on a .25. Going to run mine over the chrony on Sunday and see what it gets on various tunes. Transfer port does not seem to seal all that well.
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You can feel the air escaping under the breech. Might be that the valve is cylindrical and does not have a recess where the seal sits against the valve. Or could be because it's plastic and it's flexing. I might have put the seal back on wrong but still looked questionable to me when i first did the teardown. I did not get a chance to chrony it as I have other projects that are calling my name. I plan to chrony it and I'm going to do a complete teardown and mod it for 1 mag at 50fpe as a light weight .25 hunting rig that I don't mind banging up. I plan on removing the front cap to keep it short.
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If anyone is interested in taking the shroud of, the front of the barrel shroud unscrew. Once that part is off the second shroud part needs to be pulled towards the muzzle end while slightly rotating it left and right. It has a ramp that tightens it on as the first shroud was screwed on. Pic of the barrel end. 
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So I’m going out my mind how did you manage to remove the plastic breech, I have stripped my CHIEF II down multiple times but the receiver just doesn’t seem to lift off on the raider. If the barrel is connected on the underside how am I meant to remove anything with the barrel bands blocking everything??
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You must remove the barrel shroud and the 2 barrel bands and it will lift off. After you remove the end moderator the sight is pressed on. I tap it lightly and it will come off. Hope this helps.
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I appreciate your quick reply buddy and thankyou for the help! I will attempt it when I get home this evening however do you have the exact procedure you used as not to damage anything etc. I’m guessing my rubber mallet and wrap the sight in a thick cloth of some kind before I start tapping? Any suggestions on what worked for you are appreciated.
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It has an allen head in end of moderator to turn to get the moderator off . Then lightly twist and pull on the end sight or tap off with a mallet- it has a flat spot to align it to the barrel and only held on by friction. Next remove the end barrel band slide off the center tube. You then remove the gage assembly and remove the barrel band by the breech. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need any info or help. I have my .22 apart right now installing carbon fiber tube on barrel to eliminate the sights.
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Make sure all your barrel bands and breech are tightened down. Than remove the front stripper with the correct size allen wrench. Once this is done, i braced the hpa tube and barrel with one hand while pulling and giving slight twists left and right to the front sight housing. Feel it shimmy slightly while giving it slight twists. That's how I did it. Front barrel has a ramp that holds the front sight on. Once it's off take it all off from front to back. You can see the ramp in this picture. Not to question your abilities, remember to release all air from the raider.
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Honestly thankyou so much gents managed to get it off with a couple hearty taps with a rubber mallet and a tea towel wrapped over the front sight. From there it all made sense of course and the gun basically fell apart in my hands so once again thanks a million!!
Managed to give everything I wanted to a thorough degrease and regrease/lube and make notes of what I was to enhance in the future, polishing hammer, changing springs etc…
Back together and awaiting a new KRAL suppressor because there is one on sale in my local store, and a quick shot side lever receiver from Brazil as I’m completely unable to get any Barra or even Beeman parts sent to the UK.
Cheers again gents, I only made an account to ask my question and will now be a member for life.
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Looks good. Glad it worked out for you. I put my .22 back together tonite. Made a carbon fiber shroud and used original mod. Not too loud sounds good to me. I have the BARRA 1100Z breeches on all 3 of my raiders they work great. I think the plastic breech and pin to hold barrel are only 2 things really need changing. The inners are like the QB78 with the block behind valve not flush to valve so I installed a 3/8 washer and it tightened the gap. Tried to chrony but my chrony was dead. Could not get it to work but acuracy was good at 25 yards. Will order a new chrony and get this one and .177 and .25 up and running the way they should. If you need any further info just ask.
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By the way tried the 22 inch BARRA 1100Z barrels but they were 3 inches longer than the Beeman so went back to Beeman barrel.
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Finally finished the 3 Raiders with carbon fiber shrouds. Waiting on a new chrony as my cheap China barrel mounted took a dump. Will post some numbers after getting chrony. I adjusted all 3 to eliminate as much hammer bounce as I could.
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I have a Raider.
The original barrel bands (in the photos above) clamp on the air tube and the barrel.
The original shroud was fake, with air getting out at the barrel band attachement points.
It did not help much with reducing the nosie.
You said you added a new shroud.
Does it reduce the sound?
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nobody1--No still has same sound shroud is just for cosmetic appearance. I have DFL TANTOS for all 3 if need any noise reduction.
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airgunner53--- The valve in the Raider is the exact same valve in the BARRA 1100Z. They are very inexpensive and available from BARRA. I have several new valves and am going to do some opening up of the transfer ports and try different springs to see what I can get out of the .25 first. You can get alot of parts from BARRA that are the same as the RAIDER parts. I even believe I purchased complete oring kits that work in the Raider.
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Thanks for the info. I have things in my cart already. I'm going to chrono mine and see where it is. Once that's done, I'm going to mod it to the gills. Might be a good slug shooter.
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Watching for your results and if they show promise might buy another .25 and make it a .30. Easy rifle to tinker with.
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