here's a target from yesterday, I wasn't able to get the Crossman premier pellets yet like some of yall said, but I did turn down the power. I do not like the quality of the power adjust valve at all. I can get turn out of the knob before I see the other side of the shaft turn. also I get very little travel in either direction. the sound and feel of the gun doesn't seem to change whatsoever unless I turn it all the way down and I feel something like a detent click, but I don't feel it every time, just sometimes, and I don't think that detent is even supposed to be there. if I turn it all the way down, it just lobs pellets, so in that position I know it's working, but I can't tell anywhere else cause I have no chrono yet. another possible cause of this grouping could be one of my other springer damaged my scope, but it should have been grouping terrible on those guns... keep in mind this target is only 30 yards away, no wind. any ideas? 
Benjamin Akela, not grouping vertically
- Thread starter Toolmaker
- Start date
I'm gonna guess on the scope too.. I turned the power down on mine and with the crossmans at 25 yds it's pretty much spot on. Just throwing it out there but, did you clean the barrel when you got it? I've read on here to clean new ones real good then pretty much leave it alone. I'm like you don't have the chrony yet so can't help there either.
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Take the power adjuster out and make sure it's not broken. You should not see anything but both sides moving as one. The kral barrel shoots best with JSB 18.13gr and 15.89gr. Both in the 850-910 range. That should be about 3/4 power on the 18 and half power on the 15.89.
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Wouldn't that void a warranty? First thing I'll do is try another scope, and more pellets, but I don't think it's a pellet issue. It's seems to vertical to be pellets
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I second what thammer said. Also check the barrel o rings for damage and the breech o ring. A leak at either spot will ruin consistency. Seeing as how they include spare o rings with your rifle I don’t think you’ll be voiding the warranty by checking them. My kratos had a couple bad o rings out of the box but I replaced them and it’s a tack driver.
It won’t hurt to check your seals even though the problem may just be the scope. While the breech o ring is out and the barrel is out I would use that opportunity to give the barrel a good cleaning too.
It won’t hurt to check your seals even though the problem may just be the scope. While the breech o ring is out and the barrel is out I would use that opportunity to give the barrel a good cleaning too.
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I have been seeing oil coming from where the barrel meets thr receiver. Is that not normal? I can tell there is a slight leak there.
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@Toolmaker search for the SAM issue post on this forum you will find posts by Phil I know he would be interested in hearing the issues you are having and he has direct contact with the engineers.
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Thank you, but let me confirm it is not in fact the scope. My buddy has a red dot I can try, at 30 yards it'll due
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Also, in the manual there are no drawings or directions on changing these seals. Any idea where to get drawings?
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Try Crosman Premier Hollowpoints or JSB 18.1gr first because the H&N pellets may not be the pellets that the gun likes at all and of course not group well.
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There is some residual oil in the shroud and it's vented at the rear where the shroud meets the breech. You're probably just seeing that residual oil blow out when the air is forced to the rear during the shot cycle. You won't void the warranty checking the power adjuster. You just have to have the gun fully assembled and in factory set up if it has to be shipped in for repair.
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The first thing I think you should do is remove the barrel, remove the breach seal and use a 22 cal bronze brush to clean the barrel. My barrel looked horrible when it was received.
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Dan,
How hard is it to remove the barrel? Did you take any pics of the procedure? I assume the rear shroud mount is held on with grub screws and that the barrel locking screws are under the cantilevered scope rail. Does the barrel pull out without messing with the transfer port? I haven't torn mine down and there aren't any parts diagrams on Crosman's site yet.
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Remove the end cap from the shroud, remove the cups and spring. Then unscrew the shroud from the barrel, being careful not to mar the shroud. Remove the scope rail 2 bolts, in the same holes are the 2 grub screws that hold the barrel to the receiver. Twist and pull the barrel from the receiver, there are 2 O-rings on the receiver end of the barrel and the transfer port is part of the barrel. The O-ring in the end of the barrel needs to be removed with a dental pick before using the brush. Any questions, just ask.
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Okay I think I've figured out the issue. There is a leak where the barrel meets the receiver. Vapor and gas is visible blasting out from there when I fire. I'm guessing that o ring you speak of is bad. Thank you!
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Toolmaker, the behavior of your power adjuster, as you described it, looks fishy to me.
Check first whether that's not broken, as suggested by THammer. All you need to do is remove 1 small set screw (+ small spring +small pin underneath) from the top of the breech block. Look for the little screw hole off to the left and aligned with the adjuster pin. Once that screw etc are removed, wiggle and pull the adjuster pin out -- gently. If it does not come out readily (in its entirety), and continues to not move all the way thru, I would return the gun for warranty unless you want to replace the adjuster yourself. Not difficult for someone versed in PCP tuning & basic metalwork -- and cool with losing warranty protection.
Of course you could also start looking elsewhere, taking the barrel off etc, but your power adjuster behavior just doesn't seem normal at all.
Check first whether that's not broken, as suggested by THammer. All you need to do is remove 1 small set screw (+ small spring +small pin underneath) from the top of the breech block. Look for the little screw hole off to the left and aligned with the adjuster pin. Once that screw etc are removed, wiggle and pull the adjuster pin out -- gently. If it does not come out readily (in its entirety), and continues to not move all the way thru, I would return the gun for warranty unless you want to replace the adjuster yourself. Not difficult for someone versed in PCP tuning & basic metalwork -- and cool with losing warranty protection.
Of course you could also start looking elsewhere, taking the barrel off etc, but your power adjuster behavior just doesn't seem normal at all.
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Vapor? Gas? What did you fill your gun with?
If you remove the barrel, and put it back, turn it as little as possible. Lube the new o-ring with silicon grease and make sure you depress it with the back of an allen key thru the (front) set screw hole when it passes there.
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There's a hole in the bottom of the section that holds the rear of the shroud on the barrel. It is to let some of the vented air to escape the shroud when you fire. That is completely normal.
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Aaah okay, regardless something is happening with the velocity. My buddy pointed it out, and I was able to hear it when he fired the gun. Each shot sound like it's going a different speed. And that seems to match up with no pellets grouping vertically. I think I may return this rifle. I didn't pay this much money for it to have problems. I think I'm going to return the gun.
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