I wondered the same thing, but it doesn’t look like they are the same. I like how the magazine does not extend above the top of the scope rail on this one.
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Benjamin Gunnar listed on PA now.
- Thread starter pnwairgunner
- Start date
I wondered the same thing, but it doesn’t look like they are the same. I like how the magazine does not extend above the top of the scope rail on this one.
Yeah it sucked to hear that Troy Hammer was edged out of the whole reximex thing. The Throne is definitely cool. Maybe it will show up on Krale.shop one day. More than likely it’ll show up re-branded and with a different name. The Reximex pistols looked pretty cool too.
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Yikes, you’re correct. I didn’t notice the $1,299. But I think I understand their strategy. Make it look like $1,300+ plus guns that other manufacturers make then step up to the plate and take a swing. I love new guns and innovations but I think if the gun was a $799 gun they would kill it just like they do with the Kratos and Akela. They are tip toeing on the edge of best bang for your buck. At $800, when you replace the reg with a Huma and add a carbon bottle, you could be sitting pretty if the gun is reliable and accurate.
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Look closely at the design and you'll see the height of the trigger and location of the valve and gauge are different than the standard Kral design. Actually much more like the Airmaks Katran. I think you'll find a swinging hammer rather than inline. I'd love to be able to say that with inside knowledge but I didn't know about the Gunnar until the forums saw it at midway a month or so back. It's just observation from the picture. 
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Indeed. The centerline of the valve does not appear to line up for it. It does not look like it shares any dimensional similarities with the Kratos.
I’m looking forward to seeing a review or having one in hand myself.
I’m looking forward to seeing a review or having one in hand myself.
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Buying from Krale is tempting but you basically buying a airgun with no warranty. I say that because shipping it back and forth to Krale can be rather expensive.
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Look closely at the design and you'll see the height of the trigger and location of the valve and gauge are different than the standard Kral design. Actually much more like the Airmaks Katran. I think you'll find a swinging hammer rather than inline. I'd love to be able to say that with inside knowledge but I didn't know about the Gunnar until the forums saw it at midway a month or so back. It's just observation from the picture.
Good eye. Now you even have me, Mr. Skeptical curious about the inner workings of this gun. If they built it well, though I’m not sure about Turkish regulators, it might be a shooter.
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I’m with @Vetmx, the spec is meh especially for a Turkey gun. I love good value guns and I rather buy a base Dreamline for the same money. I’ll take a tube over boat anchor aluminum tube anyways. On top of that FX is made in Sweden and proven to be amazing. Good luck crosman, I’m sure they will sell a bunch, how long that would last or the gun would last is another story.
can someone please order them so we can see how they are? Thanks in advance.
can someone please order them so we can see how they are? Thanks in advance.
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I read that Airgun Revisions has some Reximex parts, don't know if it includes the Gunnar or just the Craftsman Series but it's worth contacting him.
What do you need to know? I have had mine apart before. Also there is a thread on the Gateway to Air forum that shows the internals.
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Can you explain a little more about drilling the ports? I have a Gunnar. Just interested and curious here.
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Relax a tad boys.
The Benjamin Gunnar is simply a rebranded Reximex NYX.
Smaller stuff might be different, but on a general whole.. Reximex NYX
The NYX/Gunnar is one of Rex later designs. Want to mention this as one of the others by Rex right up there is the Meta Premium. Which in turn IS a wolf in sheeps clothing.
The NYX though.
Build quality, not only for a turkish made rifle but on a general whole, is right up there. Sure. There´s the occasional hit n miss, no argument, but what really cuts the piece down is its specs.
Don´t get me wrong. As i write it´s a "modern" design alright. Reg pressure adjustment fairly easy to get to and so forth. This particular NYX, in 25cal, even sported the main pressure gauge in bar and the reg pressure gauge in PSI.. goes to show ya i guess.
Trigger group, cause it indeed is a trigger group, is held in by a mere two small countersunk allen screws. Works, but truth be told fitment isn´t 100%. Lends that adjusting the unit takes a bit of wigglin to be honest.
Owning several Rex guns, and finding them a great value for money - have to say, one drawback they´ve got is that they ARE power limited by their rather shallow mags. Have taken this up with Rex on several occasions, no idea as to what might come out of that.
In 25 cal the upper limit is 42 grains, which we can surpass rather easy these days. Another 1 and a half mill can be had by turning the inside of the acrylic lids on the lathe. The "see through" feature will go bye bye but then at least 46s will fit.
I would almost go as far as saying the thing is semi modular. Things appear where they do for a good reason, why some of it is to question. On the other hand, isn´t it always?
One such is that for some reason, i´ll post a pic further down, Rex arrived on the most overkill shroud diffusor i´ve EVER seen. This used on the already long Meta Premium too, and not only that.. on this particular NYX the shroud tube was approx 3mm to long handing that you can´t torq down on said diffusor - which sure does no favors as far as clipping/baffle whip.
Simple to someone like me to remedy as i keep heavy machinery, for the average Joe.. another matter all together.
Will it shoot? Yes. Yes, it´ll shoot. Just be aware that the stock thing is FAR from any powerhouse. Seeing where the industry is headed i´d just about call it anemic actually, cause as is 40J is about it. More than that, time to bring the tools out. Flyer is on me btw. Not the guns fault, distance is 30 meters.
To settle that argument, no. Hammer is your off the mill standard - nothing exotic about it at all. Although not inline with the valve/poppet. Poppet as you can see the more or less typical Kral flavor (Kral and Rex are under the same owners).
One thing though that i found to remark is that the thing lacks hammer spring adjuster stock. Very very simple to remedy, but none the less.. not there out of the box.
This of course is a big part of setting the limits for power for the unit too - again out of the box, just using adjustments. The typical AR buffer tube does about.. nothing, apart from being the rear stock.
Cocking handle actually sports ball bearings now... What´s more i guess you realize what i mean by trigger group. Right there on the table.
Right. Hammer. For some reason it´s a solid piece of steel and thus carries a bit of heft. Thus shutter time is on the big side shooting the gun. In turn the stock barrel is rather short, again a testament to that this was never intended as any sorts of powerhouse.
More so a neat little well shooting 40J piece and done deal, sorry to say.
Here then that diffusor. Same thing for both the Meta and the NYX. What WERE they thinking? That thing is approx 120mm long and to be quite honest to no good at all.
FX and other brands got it right with them "regular" sized diffusors sporting windows and a relatively small through hole. What is it THAT there is ment to solve?
Have made away with them and gone "FX" for both.
So the Gunnar/NYX is dead in the water as far as power then?
No. Of course not, it´s just that it´s up to you the end user to make that happen. As it´s a regulated gun i went for 6,2mm ports right off. Then modified the valve assy to take a poppet on a 2mm stem..... make the hammerspring adjustable, replaced said spring with a sturdier one and so on and so on. Added a plenum, which it is in dire need of to be able to breathe.
Kept BACK the thing now hands 100J
What´s to take away from all of this then?
Yeah well, in my opinion both the Meta and the NYX shows a number of clear steps up the ladder as far as both design, material choice and craftsmanship vs ALL other pcp´s out of Turkey.
Are they that said on par with way more expensive guns (the NYX is a way cheaper offering here in Europe vs the the Gunnar in the US)?
Yes... and no.
In an effort to explain that. That there is my 25cal M3 next to my souped up Meta Premium, that stock sports a 90cc plenum and 700mm worth of barrel. Actually the Meta is the one adjusted way hotter of the two, now running @ approx 140J.
Am i saying that Rex made an Impact contender in the Meta Premium? No. What i´m saying is that the MP is way much pcp for the money and CAN be transformed into something that´ll hand my M3 a run for the money.
The M3 will still come out on top, but now it´s more about the little things. Like that the Meta is uncalled for heavy for a chassis gun, and stuff similar.
The Benjamin Gunnar is simply a rebranded Reximex NYX.
Smaller stuff might be different, but on a general whole.. Reximex NYX
The NYX/Gunnar is one of Rex later designs. Want to mention this as one of the others by Rex right up there is the Meta Premium. Which in turn IS a wolf in sheeps clothing.
The NYX though.
Build quality, not only for a turkish made rifle but on a general whole, is right up there. Sure. There´s the occasional hit n miss, no argument, but what really cuts the piece down is its specs.
Don´t get me wrong. As i write it´s a "modern" design alright. Reg pressure adjustment fairly easy to get to and so forth. This particular NYX, in 25cal, even sported the main pressure gauge in bar and the reg pressure gauge in PSI.. goes to show ya i guess.
Trigger group, cause it indeed is a trigger group, is held in by a mere two small countersunk allen screws. Works, but truth be told fitment isn´t 100%. Lends that adjusting the unit takes a bit of wigglin to be honest.
Owning several Rex guns, and finding them a great value for money - have to say, one drawback they´ve got is that they ARE power limited by their rather shallow mags. Have taken this up with Rex on several occasions, no idea as to what might come out of that.
In 25 cal the upper limit is 42 grains, which we can surpass rather easy these days. Another 1 and a half mill can be had by turning the inside of the acrylic lids on the lathe. The "see through" feature will go bye bye but then at least 46s will fit.
I would almost go as far as saying the thing is semi modular. Things appear where they do for a good reason, why some of it is to question. On the other hand, isn´t it always?
One such is that for some reason, i´ll post a pic further down, Rex arrived on the most overkill shroud diffusor i´ve EVER seen. This used on the already long Meta Premium too, and not only that.. on this particular NYX the shroud tube was approx 3mm to long handing that you can´t torq down on said diffusor - which sure does no favors as far as clipping/baffle whip.
Simple to someone like me to remedy as i keep heavy machinery, for the average Joe.. another matter all together.
Will it shoot? Yes. Yes, it´ll shoot. Just be aware that the stock thing is FAR from any powerhouse. Seeing where the industry is headed i´d just about call it anemic actually, cause as is 40J is about it. More than that, time to bring the tools out. Flyer is on me btw. Not the guns fault, distance is 30 meters.
To settle that argument, no. Hammer is your off the mill standard - nothing exotic about it at all. Although not inline with the valve/poppet. Poppet as you can see the more or less typical Kral flavor (Kral and Rex are under the same owners).
One thing though that i found to remark is that the thing lacks hammer spring adjuster stock. Very very simple to remedy, but none the less.. not there out of the box.
This of course is a big part of setting the limits for power for the unit too - again out of the box, just using adjustments. The typical AR buffer tube does about.. nothing, apart from being the rear stock.
Cocking handle actually sports ball bearings now... What´s more i guess you realize what i mean by trigger group. Right there on the table.
Right. Hammer. For some reason it´s a solid piece of steel and thus carries a bit of heft. Thus shutter time is on the big side shooting the gun. In turn the stock barrel is rather short, again a testament to that this was never intended as any sorts of powerhouse.
More so a neat little well shooting 40J piece and done deal, sorry to say.
Here then that diffusor. Same thing for both the Meta and the NYX. What WERE they thinking? That thing is approx 120mm long and to be quite honest to no good at all.
FX and other brands got it right with them "regular" sized diffusors sporting windows and a relatively small through hole. What is it THAT there is ment to solve?
Have made away with them and gone "FX" for both.
So the Gunnar/NYX is dead in the water as far as power then?
No. Of course not, it´s just that it´s up to you the end user to make that happen. As it´s a regulated gun i went for 6,2mm ports right off. Then modified the valve assy to take a poppet on a 2mm stem..... make the hammerspring adjustable, replaced said spring with a sturdier one and so on and so on. Added a plenum, which it is in dire need of to be able to breathe.
Kept BACK the thing now hands 100J
What´s to take away from all of this then?
Yeah well, in my opinion both the Meta and the NYX shows a number of clear steps up the ladder as far as both design, material choice and craftsmanship vs ALL other pcp´s out of Turkey.
Are they that said on par with way more expensive guns (the NYX is a way cheaper offering here in Europe vs the the Gunnar in the US)?
Yes... and no.
In an effort to explain that. That there is my 25cal M3 next to my souped up Meta Premium, that stock sports a 90cc plenum and 700mm worth of barrel. Actually the Meta is the one adjusted way hotter of the two, now running @ approx 140J.
Am i saying that Rex made an Impact contender in the Meta Premium? No. What i´m saying is that the MP is way much pcp for the money and CAN be transformed into something that´ll hand my M3 a run for the money.
The M3 will still come out on top, but now it´s more about the little things. Like that the Meta is uncalled for heavy for a chassis gun, and stuff similar.
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Yes I do have some new Gunnar parts. These are all smaller repair parts that was sent from Reximex.
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Sir. That was an absolutely awesome and generous response. I very much appreciate your sharing of knowledge. Here is my issue. I am new to airguns, I run chainsaws for a living and this is far from that. I'd like to tweak my Gunnar to pull out some fpe's if possible. Are there things I can do on my own? I would send the gun away, but I have taken a large interest in this way of life and I'd like to be involved with, if not completely on my own, the tweaks and tinkering. If you'd like to email me instead, [email protected]Relax a tad boys.
The Benjamin Gunnar is simply a rebranded Reximex NYX.
Smaller stuff might be different, but on a general whole.. Reximex NYX
The NYX/Gunnar is one of Rex later designs. Want to mention this as one of the others by Rex right up there is the Meta Premium. Which in turn IS a wolf in sheeps clothing.
The NYX though.
Build quality, not only for a turkish made rifle but on a general whole, is right up there. Sure. There´s the occasional hit n miss, no argument, but what really cuts the piece down is its specs.
Don´t get me wrong. As i write it´s a "modern" design alright. Reg pressure adjustment fairly easy to get to and so forth. This particular NYX, in 25cal, even sported the main pressure gauge in bar and the reg pressure gauge in PSI.. goes to show ya i guess.
Trigger group, cause it indeed is a trigger group, is held in by a mere two small countersunk allen screws. Works, but truth be told fitment isn´t 100%. Lends that adjusting the unit takes a bit of wigglin to be honest.
Owning several Rex guns, and finding them a great value for money - have to say, one drawback they´ve got is that they ARE power limited by their rather shallow mags. Have taken this up with Rex on several occasions, no idea as to what might come out of that.
In 25 cal the upper limit is 42 grains, which we can surpass rather easy these days. Another 1 and a half mill can be had by turning the inside of the acrylic lids on the lathe. The "see through" feature will go bye bye but then at least 46s will fit.
I would almost go as far as saying the thing is semi modular. Things appear where they do for a good reason, why some of it is to question. On the other hand, isn´t it always?
One such is that for some reason, i´ll post a pic further down, Rex arrived on the most overkill shroud diffusor i´ve EVER seen. This used on the already long Meta Premium too, and not only that.. on this particular NYX the shroud tube was approx 3mm to long handing that you can´t torq down on said diffusor - which sure does no favors as far as clipping/baffle whip.
Simple to someone like me to remedy as i keep heavy machinery, for the average Joe.. another matter all together.
Will it shoot? Yes. Yes, it´ll shoot. Just be aware that the stock thing is FAR from any powerhouse. Seeing where the industry is headed i´d just about call it anemic actually, cause as is 40J is about it. More than that, time to bring the tools out. Flyer is on me btw. Not the guns fault, distance is 30 meters.
To settle that argument, no. Hammer is your off the mill standard - nothing exotic about it at all. Although not inline with the valve/poppet. Poppet as you can see the more or less typical Kral flavor (Kral and Rex are under the same owners).
One thing though that i found to remark is that the thing lacks hammer spring adjuster stock. Very very simple to remedy, but none the less.. not there out of the box.
This of course is a big part of setting the limits for power for the unit too - again out of the box, just using adjustments. The typical AR buffer tube does about.. nothing, apart from being the rear stock.
Cocking handle actually sports ball bearings now... What´s more i guess you realize what i mean by trigger group. Right there on the table.
Right. Hammer. For some reason it´s a solid piece of steel and thus carries a bit of heft. Thus shutter time is on the big side shooting the gun. In turn the stock barrel is rather short, again a testament to that this was never intended as any sorts of powerhouse.
More so a neat little well shooting 40J piece and done deal, sorry to say.
Here then that diffusor. Same thing for both the Meta and the NYX. What WERE they thinking? That thing is approx 120mm long and to be quite honest to no good at all.
FX and other brands got it right with them "regular" sized diffusors sporting windows and a relatively small through hole. What is it THAT there is ment to solve?
Have made away with them and gone "FX" for both.
So the Gunnar/NYX is dead in the water as far as power then?
No. Of course not, it´s just that it´s up to you the end user to make that happen. As it´s a regulated gun i went for 6,2mm ports right off. Then modified the valve assy to take a poppet on a 2mm stem..... make the hammerspring adjustable, replaced said spring with a sturdier one and so on and so on. Added a plenum, which it is in dire need of to be able to breathe.
Kept BACK the thing now hands 100J
What´s to take away from all of this then?
Yeah well, in my opinion both the Meta and the NYX shows a number of clear steps up the ladder as far as both design, material choice and craftsmanship vs ALL other pcp´s out of Turkey.
Are they that said on par with way more expensive guns (the NYX is a way cheaper offering here in Europe vs the the Gunnar in the US)?
Yes... and no.
In an effort to explain that. That there is my 25cal M3 next to my souped up Meta Premium, that stock sports a 90cc plenum and 700mm worth of barrel. Actually the Meta is the one adjusted way hotter of the two, now running @ approx 140J.
Am i saying that Rex made an Impact contender in the Meta Premium? No. What i´m saying is that the MP is way much pcp for the money and CAN be transformed into something that´ll hand my M3 a run for the money.
The M3 will still come out on top, but now it´s more about the little things. Like that the Meta is uncalled for heavy for a chassis gun, and stuff similar.
I seriously thought there was not one out there who could offer advice to this matter and my Gunnar. Let alone some support. Just two days ago. Wow did that chance. Thank you again most sincerely.
Derick
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@ Derick.
First up you need to get a feel for the unit and how it´s put together.
That does not by default mean that you have to rip the entire thing apart, it means that you need to get familiar with the basics.
Basics in this case for instance, how to get the rear stock off (which you do by unturning that massive castell nut at the base of it vs the main block).
There you´ll notice the plug for the hammer spring.
Other end of the block is where the regulator pressure is adjusted.
Btw.
As soon as you rip into the HPA side of the gun ALWAYS "de-gass" it. Remove the bottle (screwed on) and then use the onboard little allen stoppie on the block that keeps the Foster fitting and main pressure gauge to relieve the gun of the rest of its pressure.
Never EVER get into the high pressure side of a pcp that still retains air.
First tip is simple as pie and very very easy to handle.
The stock plug for the hammerspring, that thing needs a hole and a thread to make the thing adjustable. I opted for M8 (if memory serves) and i used an allen stop screw on said dimension where i made like a "shelf" on it out front to fit/center a washer. This rather large washer is in turn what acts vs the spring, not the screw in itself. I of course did this on a lathe but it can just as well be done rather crude using a file or a die or bench grinder.
Presto, adjustable hammer spring pressure.
So. Use an as long such M8 stoppie as you can get a hold of (if in the US feel free to go 5/16 thread, might be an idea to make that UNF even). Then.. turn it in and keep doing until the gun won´t cock. Back off 1 to 1,5 turns and put the unit over the chrono. You should see a marked difference in pellet speed.
Stock spring is rather meek and can sure (should) be replaced by any generic spring that hands more power/force. Pick your poison.
It being a side lever brings it´ll take quite a bit of spring need be without turning "Godzilla" to cock the unit.
Next up to be honest is porting the unit. When doing so keep the old "truth" at the back of you head, that you should never even give thought to going larger than caliber for regulated guns. Fact is, for starters keep it at like 5mm for a 22 and 5,5mm for a 25. Mind you, this then my OPINION and in essence mainly said to keep you on the safe side.
Porting is done using regular drill bits.
One absolutely imperative part to that though is that ALL holes affected by the drill bit HAS to be deburred when done. Any burrs left will eat o-rings alive in a heartbeat.
One caveat here is the power adjuster. The entire flow path of course needs to be ported, and Kral n Rex typical power adjuster can come to present an issue as those need to be drilled through together with the rest of the flow path.
When you do make sure the o-rings on the power adjuster are removed. The power adjuster, its clicks, is cotrolled by a small spring n ball bearing. These come to the letter rushing as you let go of the small allen stop screw that comes in from the front of the block to be able to remove the adjuster. Be aware of this so you won´t have to spend 3hrs on your knees finding that small ball and spring.
On my particular one there i went up in size on the adjuster and made the hole for it 10mm flat by use of a reamer. This as i ported it as large as i did and wanted to regain resolution on the dial. Thus i of course turned new inserts for the adjuster on the lathe to boot. But for lesser degrees of porting the stock thing will suffice just fine.
That should get you going at least. For reg pressure this both can and should be raised together with more intense hammerspring (as any other PCP really) and i´d wager that sans an external plenum that thing of yours when the above is done and done right will come to a rest around 170bar and approx 70J using either generic 25,4´s in 22 or 33,95´s in 25. The latter with the upper hand power wise.
Why around 70?
This is in essence a matter of LACK of what´s called plenum volume. An entity of air AFTER the regulator. Regs sure don´t flow worth a damn, which is why higher horsepower setups always sport plenums, installed one way or another.
To hand an idea another puff i´ve been working on lately. A rather old design by now, the BSA R-10. This one in 177cal. Seeing its age it´s rather cumbersome to the build but that being said one thing´s for *amn sure and that´s that the design was never intended for any higher horsepower applications. Thus what i did was fab me a rather "small diameter" plenum (25mm outer) that wouldn´t completely turn the beautiful design of the R-10 bonkers. The added plenum is that smaller tube right besides the barrel in the picture.
Word of advice on external plenums and the fabrication thereof though, never EVER get even close to that if you´re not 100% in the loop and know what you´re doing. Mistakes at that level can be lethal even, pressures we fool around with here are NOT to be played around with. So no. External add on plenums is NOT something to put together with a MIG welder on a vise.
Just to be blunt and very clear on the matter.
Anyways.
That BSA is now, as a 177, tossing H&N´s 20 grainers around the 1060-1070 mark at will, then handing approx 70J. So yes, the 177 can sure be had to perform too.
Accuracy won´t really be affected by any of the above, and with the reg pressure together with the now adjustable hammer spring you should soon enough find a new benchmark for the unit where it´ll hand really good accuracy.
First up you need to get a feel for the unit and how it´s put together.
That does not by default mean that you have to rip the entire thing apart, it means that you need to get familiar with the basics.
Basics in this case for instance, how to get the rear stock off (which you do by unturning that massive castell nut at the base of it vs the main block).
There you´ll notice the plug for the hammer spring.
Other end of the block is where the regulator pressure is adjusted.
Btw.
As soon as you rip into the HPA side of the gun ALWAYS "de-gass" it. Remove the bottle (screwed on) and then use the onboard little allen stoppie on the block that keeps the Foster fitting and main pressure gauge to relieve the gun of the rest of its pressure.
Never EVER get into the high pressure side of a pcp that still retains air.
First tip is simple as pie and very very easy to handle.
The stock plug for the hammerspring, that thing needs a hole and a thread to make the thing adjustable. I opted for M8 (if memory serves) and i used an allen stop screw on said dimension where i made like a "shelf" on it out front to fit/center a washer. This rather large washer is in turn what acts vs the spring, not the screw in itself. I of course did this on a lathe but it can just as well be done rather crude using a file or a die or bench grinder.
Presto, adjustable hammer spring pressure.
So. Use an as long such M8 stoppie as you can get a hold of (if in the US feel free to go 5/16 thread, might be an idea to make that UNF even). Then.. turn it in and keep doing until the gun won´t cock. Back off 1 to 1,5 turns and put the unit over the chrono. You should see a marked difference in pellet speed.
Stock spring is rather meek and can sure (should) be replaced by any generic spring that hands more power/force. Pick your poison.
It being a side lever brings it´ll take quite a bit of spring need be without turning "Godzilla" to cock the unit.
Next up to be honest is porting the unit. When doing so keep the old "truth" at the back of you head, that you should never even give thought to going larger than caliber for regulated guns. Fact is, for starters keep it at like 5mm for a 22 and 5,5mm for a 25. Mind you, this then my OPINION and in essence mainly said to keep you on the safe side.
Porting is done using regular drill bits.
One absolutely imperative part to that though is that ALL holes affected by the drill bit HAS to be deburred when done. Any burrs left will eat o-rings alive in a heartbeat.
One caveat here is the power adjuster. The entire flow path of course needs to be ported, and Kral n Rex typical power adjuster can come to present an issue as those need to be drilled through together with the rest of the flow path.
When you do make sure the o-rings on the power adjuster are removed. The power adjuster, its clicks, is cotrolled by a small spring n ball bearing. These come to the letter rushing as you let go of the small allen stop screw that comes in from the front of the block to be able to remove the adjuster. Be aware of this so you won´t have to spend 3hrs on your knees finding that small ball and spring.
On my particular one there i went up in size on the adjuster and made the hole for it 10mm flat by use of a reamer. This as i ported it as large as i did and wanted to regain resolution on the dial. Thus i of course turned new inserts for the adjuster on the lathe to boot. But for lesser degrees of porting the stock thing will suffice just fine.
That should get you going at least. For reg pressure this both can and should be raised together with more intense hammerspring (as any other PCP really) and i´d wager that sans an external plenum that thing of yours when the above is done and done right will come to a rest around 170bar and approx 70J using either generic 25,4´s in 22 or 33,95´s in 25. The latter with the upper hand power wise.
Why around 70?
This is in essence a matter of LACK of what´s called plenum volume. An entity of air AFTER the regulator. Regs sure don´t flow worth a damn, which is why higher horsepower setups always sport plenums, installed one way or another.
To hand an idea another puff i´ve been working on lately. A rather old design by now, the BSA R-10. This one in 177cal. Seeing its age it´s rather cumbersome to the build but that being said one thing´s for *amn sure and that´s that the design was never intended for any higher horsepower applications. Thus what i did was fab me a rather "small diameter" plenum (25mm outer) that wouldn´t completely turn the beautiful design of the R-10 bonkers. The added plenum is that smaller tube right besides the barrel in the picture.
Word of advice on external plenums and the fabrication thereof though, never EVER get even close to that if you´re not 100% in the loop and know what you´re doing. Mistakes at that level can be lethal even, pressures we fool around with here are NOT to be played around with. So no. External add on plenums is NOT something to put together with a MIG welder on a vise.
Just to be blunt and very clear on the matter.
Anyways.
That BSA is now, as a 177, tossing H&N´s 20 grainers around the 1060-1070 mark at will, then handing approx 70J. So yes, the 177 can sure be had to perform too.
Accuracy won´t really be affected by any of the above, and with the reg pressure together with the now adjustable hammer spring you should soon enough find a new benchmark for the unit where it´ll hand really good accuracy.
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Dude you are awesome. Thanks so much.@ Derick.
First up you need to get a feel for the unit and how it´s put together.
That does not by default mean that you have to rip the entire thing apart, it means that you need to get familiar with the basics.
Basics in this case for instance, how to get the rear stock off (which you do by unturning that massive castell nut at the base of it vs the main block).
There you´ll notice the plug for the hammer spring.
Other end of the block is where the regulator pressure is adjusted.
Btw.
As soon as you rip into the HPA side of the gun ALWAYS "de-gass" it. Remove the bottle (screwed on) and then use the onboard little allen stoppie on the block that keeps the Foster fitting and main pressure gauge to relieve the gun of the rest of its pressure.
Never EVER get into the high pressure side of a pcp that still retains air.
First tip is simple as pie and very very easy to handle.
The stock plug for the hammerspring, that thing needs a hole and a thread to make the thing adjustable. I opted for M8 (if memory serves) and i used an allen stop screw on said dimension where i made like a "shelf" on it out front to fit/center a washer. This rather large washer is in turn what acts vs the spring, not the screw in itself. I of course did this on a lathe but it can just as well be done rather crude using a file or a die or bench grinder.
Presto, adjustable hammer spring pressure.
So. Use an as long such M8 stoppie as you can get a hold of (if in the US feel free to go 5/16 thread, might be an idea to make that UNF even). Then.. turn it in and keep doing until the gun won´t cock. Back off 1 to 1,5 turns and put the unit over the chrono. You should see a marked difference in pellet speed.
Stock spring is rather meek and can sure (should) be replaced by any generic spring that hands more power/force. Pick your poison.
It being a side lever brings it´ll take quite a bit of spring need be without turning "Godzilla" to cock the unit.
Next up to be honest is porting the unit. When doing so keep the old "truth" at the back of you head, that you should never even give thought to going larger than caliber for regulated guns. Fact is, for starters keep it at like 5mm for a 22 and 5,5mm for a 25. Mind you, this then my OPINION and in essence mainly said to keep you on the safe side.
Porting is done using regular drill bits.
One absolutely imperative part to that though is that ALL holes affected by the drill bit HAS to be deburred when done. Any burrs left will eat o-rings alive in a heartbeat.
One caveat here is the power adjuster. The entire flow path of course needs to be ported, and Kral n Rex typical power adjuster can come to present an issue as those need to be drilled through together with the rest of the flow path.
When you do make sure the o-rings on the power adjuster are removed. The power adjuster, its clicks, is cotrolled by a small spring n ball bearing. These come to the letter rushing as you let go of the small allen stop screw that comes in from the front of the block to be able to remove the adjuster. Be aware of this so you won´t have to spend 3hrs on your knees finding that small ball and spring.
On my particular one there i went up in size on the adjuster and made the hole for it 10mm flat by use of a reamer. This as i ported it as large as i did and wanted to regain resolution on the dial. Thus i of course turned new inserts for the adjuster on the lathe to boot. But for lesser degrees of porting the stock thing will suffice just fine.
That should get you going at least. For reg pressure this both can and should be raised together with more intense hammerspring (as any other PCP really) and i´d wager that sans an external plenum that thing of yours when the above is done and done right will come to a rest around 170bar and approx 70J using either generic 25,4´s in 22 or 33,95´s in 25. The latter with the upper hand power wise.
Why around 70?
This is in essence a matter of LACK of what´s called plenum volume. An entity of air AFTER the regulator. Regs sure don´t flow worth a damn, which is why higher horsepower setups always sport plenums, installed one way or another.
To hand an idea another puff i´ve been working on lately. A rather old design by now, the BSA R-10. This one in 177cal. Seeing its age it´s rather cumbersome to the build but that being said one thing´s for *amn sure and that´s that the design was never intended for any higher horsepower applications. Thus what i did was fab me a rather "small diameter" plenum (25mm outer) that wouldn´t completely turn the beautiful design of the R-10 bonkers. The added plenum is that smaller tube right besides the barrel in the picture.
Word of advice on external plenums and the fabrication thereof though, never EVER get even close to that if you´re not 100% in the loop and know what you´re doing. Mistakes at that level can be lethal even, pressures we fool around with here are NOT to be played around with. So no. External add on plenums is NOT something to put together with a MIG welder on a vise.
Just to be blunt and very clear on the matter.
Anyways.
That BSA is now, as a 177, tossing H&N´s 20 grainers around the 1060-1070 mark at will, then handing approx 70J. So yes, the 177 can sure be had to perform too.
Accuracy won´t really be affected by any of the above, and with the reg pressure together with the now adjustable hammer spring you should soon enough find a new benchmark for the unit where it´ll hand really good accuracy.
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So with the tuning instructions you've provided me, what's the low side potential fpe this thing would be looking at?
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