what is the best marauder valve for them and why? power - efficiency - best accuracy - ? and with what hammer & spring combination or other mods to make it work for them.
best mrod valve and why?
- Thread starter joelayfield
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You may want to expand on your goals and identify which caliber you are using. The Marauder is perhaps the most prolific platform out there, with a correspondingly high number of aftermarket parts, so it would help immensely to narrow things down.
FWIW, power and efficiency are somewhat competing quantities, and accuracy is not influenced by the valve for the most part.
FWIW, power and efficiency are somewhat competing quantities, and accuracy is not influenced by the valve for the most part.
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As stated the Marauder is one of the most common pcp's out there. I was transporting the gun in a soft case was going crazy with POI variations, the semi floated barrel was a constant problem until I got a dedicated hardcase and modified the barrel band. The shroud has a 15/16' OD while the barrel band is !" ID. If my memory serves me right I believe it was Marmot Militia .or Wicked Airguns (Jim Gaska?) that introduced the 3 screw barrel band. Neil Clague offered a write up on using a 1" length of aluminum tubing that he sanded down to replace the 15/16" o ring that sits in a groove. I used a 7/8" X 1/8" o ring in that groove the was sandwiched with a 15/16" X 1/16" on both sides that gun kayaker is now the owner of. The Gauntlets suffered the same problem, I have a 3D printed barrel band, that Hajimoto was involved with, and I believe the new 25's it's standard. I hope Marauder Gen 3 will used a side lever, regulator, and continue with the Lothar Walther barrels, though it appears that FX is the elephant in the room. The Stream- Dream- Impact with interchangeable parts is taking control.
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Yes but USA is us here and with all the valves and other great parts "aluminum jsar tube" ETC , the mrod becomes quite a nice gun, and its all us hear in the USA! my first guns were Theoben and Daystate, there was no USA guns , JSAR is making a nice run and some others , my mrod is a pretty nice shooter ,ive had a few different valves in it with different results and was just wondering how others have done with their mrod. . thanks for the input
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I tried several different valves in my .25 Gen2 Synrods (2 ea) and have in one a complete Hill 'matched' parts package with valve, transfer port, gauge housing and hammer and then got his nice barrel band which stopped the shifting POA issues. Ported the barrel to .187 and using JSB 33.95 tuned for 850 FPS (54 FPE) it is VERY accurate. Note I've also got a Huma .30 regulator installed - not usually a listed item but if you call Trenier Outdoors and ask he can get them with the larger plenum for the higher power if you want.
On my other Synrod, I've got the excellent Wicked Air Rifle's valve along with a Hill gauge housing, and the Hill barrel band. This rifle has also had the steel tube replaced with the aluminum JSAR one ( which also then requires a MDS hammer as you can't use a steel hammer in the Al tube, it will scar up the anodized coating). It is set up for a 40/40 tune with JSB 25gr pellet and was also helped by the Hill barrel band. I bought a short shroud from Hill and eliminated the built in moderator to make the gun shorter for hunting nutria in the thick swampy brush I live in (and easier shooting from a canoe too)
I also have a Cothran valve in one of my 130 FPE WAR FLEX's (.25 for weights around 46/50/54gr slugs only) and it's of a size to fit in a Marauder tube. These valves are mainly an On/Off valve for higher power and not have much tunable ability.
On my other Synrod, I've got the excellent Wicked Air Rifle's valve along with a Hill gauge housing, and the Hill barrel band. This rifle has also had the steel tube replaced with the aluminum JSAR one ( which also then requires a MDS hammer as you can't use a steel hammer in the Al tube, it will scar up the anodized coating). It is set up for a 40/40 tune with JSB 25gr pellet and was also helped by the Hill barrel band. I bought a short shroud from Hill and eliminated the built in moderator to make the gun shorter for hunting nutria in the thick swampy brush I live in (and easier shooting from a canoe too)
I also have a Cothran valve in one of my 130 FPE WAR FLEX's (.25 for weights around 46/50/54gr slugs only) and it's of a size to fit in a Marauder tube. These valves are mainly an On/Off valve for higher power and not have much tunable ability.
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I have the war vavle and no bounce hammer.its asome.im very happy with my set up.its not reggd but I get 16 shots at 865 per second alex
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looks like wicked air is closing shop , im allways sad to see guys like that pull out of the race, maybe he will come back after while
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anything good to say about the new jsar balanced valve? curious what guys thought about that valve
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I've used WAR valve, Cobra valve, and currently using 1st gen JSAR balanced valve with the last upgraded innards they sent out.
I have it set up for 54fpe with 33.95's, regulated. Low first shot striction issues for some reason have not occurred, so I haven't bothered to upgrade to gen 2.
Out of the 3 valves balance valve easier to tune, due to it not requiring a lot of hammer to open valve.
28g rocker1 hammer, factory spring TSS end cap, audrius regulator, hill gauge port make up the rest of set up .187 through out..
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