Best Tips on Shooting a Springer!

[Steveoo]

Dont get too hung up on super tweaking with plastic tuning kits.
There is often nothing wrong with OEM steel internals if you learn to shoot the gun.
Some of the plastic parts maybe flawed technical development, may not be as reliable for that vital shot and you spend less time practising when meddling.
A good practised shot will always out perform a meddler.

 

[cjtamu]

A good practised shot will always out perform a meddler.

Well said. And applicable to so many things.

 

[Telephonepete]

When bench resting a springer just rest the forend on a bag and keep your left hand out of it tucked somwhere around the butt end of the gun. Leave the gun to recoil and you will find it is consistant. Its by holding with your left hand that you start interfering with the recoil and inconsistancies creep in.

 

[aroundlocks]

When bench resting a springer just rest the forend on a bag and keep your left hand out of it tucked somwhere around the butt end of the gun. Leave the gun to recoil and you will find it is consistant. Its by holding with your left hand that you start interfering with the recoil and inconsistancies creep in.

Strap yourself in

 

[Telephonepete]

Strap yourself in

 

[Telephonepete]

about how i shoot every springer....
View attachment 294813 View attachment 294815

works fine letting the tripod handle the "artillery hold" for me.
View attachment 294814 View attachment 294816

on a synth stock, i'll even add a bipod on occasion.
View attachment 294818

either are a lot easier than carrying sandbags around. and seems just as accurate.
View attachment 294819

just my 3-cents worth. your results may vary.

Thats the way to do it. When benching a springer I never touch the gun with my left hand. If you do you interfere with the recoil which is consistent if you leave it alone. Also i never advocate using a bipod on a springer as the best way but I do defend the idea that you can do it to great effect. Not many of us about Buddy. Certainly in the UK.

 

[drpietrzak]

A couple people have asked me about how I shoot with my Tx200. I was dealing with rain today and so did a impromptu video of how I shoot from a bag or rest. I use these for bench shooting and prone. Much like Glenn Newick in hos book The Ultimate Rifle Accuracy, I think we each end up finding our own path. This is where my path has taken me so far.

 

[RickH]

I haven’t taken time to read all of this but I used to shoot competitions with a .308 powder burner and was pretty consistent. My method is fairly simple and that’s the first thing to remember. Keep it simple. Don’t hang a bunch of gadgets on your gun. Next, figure out what you want to do. Just because the rifle is shooting well at 50 doesn’t mean it won’t go all to hell at 100. Next, learn your gun, the one you are shooting. See what ammo it likes and use that. Next, if you are shooting prone use a front bipod and a sandbag under the butt. If you are on a bench put a sandbag up front instead of a bipod and still use a bag at the back. Either way, rest your off hand under the back of the rifle or just don’t use it at all. Next, maintain your gun. Check for loose screws after each session. Keep it clean and lubricate properly for that specific gun. Practice. Practice again. Practice some more. Most importantly, have fun! Why bother if you don’t enjoy it? Remember that high end expensive stuff is nice but not always necessary. These days I shoot 15 meter matches at CMP’s indoor range in Alabama. I compete with much younger shooters with very nice and expensive pcp rifles while I’m shooting a $400 rifle that’s been tuned. Most of them outshoot me because they take it seriously and work hard. They maintain their gear and and know how to use it. I shoot more for fun and enjoy myself. If I put more work into I would place better but just don’t want to. You can do all this with a springer and you’ll do well on the range, in the field or your backyard. Work your way into what you want to do..

Rick H.

 

[Telephonepete]

The artillery hold isn't really a set in stone thing. You mostly just want to recoil in a similar fashion from shot to shot. Some guns may prefer a heavier grip than others or slightly more shoulder pressure. From a bag, same thing. I rarely if ever hold my hand between the bag and stock. I just rest the gun and let it do its thing. One thing I have noticed is that softer surfaces between the stock and bag tend to work better. Anything that grips the wood and prevents a "free-coil" tends to throw fliers.

Long story shot, experiment a little.

Spot on this. Keep the non trigger hand out of it. It disturbs the recoil which is a constant thing.

 

[Springrrrr]

Don't get hung up on the artillery hold. My LGU likes to be held real tight against my shoulder. Try different holds and pressures, you may be surprised like I was. Don't have the pictures, so it didn't happen, but I shot a one hole group at 40 yards with a very tight grip on the gun.

 

[Deadeye Dick]

Don't get hung up on the artillery hold. My LGU likes to be held real tight against my shoulder. Try different holds and pressures, you may be surprised like I was. Don't have the pictures, so it didn't happen, but I shot a one hole group at 40 yards with a very tight grip on the gun.

I'd be happy with one hole at 40 yds.

 

[SoCalAirrifles]

I also feel you need to buy a good springer. When I am shooting a high quality springer I try to always remember this gun is better than me. So any accuracy issues I’ll start with my hold, trigger pull etc. and then on to pellet, scope mount, and leveling. Keeps you humble and will eventually make you better.

 

[Sting]

Over the years, these are the most important things I have been told about the act of shooting any weapon.

Wood to wood (stockweld) and bone to bone (support the rifle with your skeleton, not your muscles).
Support the rifle, don't clutch it, particularly important with a springer.
Squeeze the trigger, don't jerk it.

Remember:
Breath
Relax
Aim (align sights)
Sight (position your now aligned sights on the target)
Squeeze

If you need to breath again before you finish those steps, start over.

Great rule. Pretty well what I have been teaching my grandsons. As well as Safety first and respect for the firearm.

 

[Jesfranco]

Don't focus too much on power. A 12fpe springer is more than capable of hunting small game at reasonable distances and are generally much easier to shoot precisely.

This is tru for me with my R9 .177 and the Diana .22 compact . Smooth shooters and eat everything !

 

[JamesD.]

For me, you must start with quality. A great trigger and bore, mount, scope, etc.

Tricks & tips you need to know.

Apply super thin superglue to your empty screw holes and harden up the wood, add screw cups and torgue evenly with a loctite on threads once dry. If you have loose mounts, rings, stock screws, you’ll probably go crazy or sell off AG’s you’d others keep.

Don’t focus on sheer power. Placement is everything with sub hydrostatic shock projectiles. A .177 or .20 at 18-28ft/lbs will penetrate just about anything so placement is how you pest, and compete. Aim small, miss small.

The dreaded artillery hold. I prefer my thiumb in screw hole on right side as a lefty and pointer in other side. I stabilize by pulling straight back into my shoulder while maintaining a perfect good cheek weld. I must know where my 1st and 2nd stage breaks. If you don’t have a good trigger it’s awfully hard to time a shot if not rested.

There is a difference between 5.52-5.53-5.54, find out and have a pro set you up with a tune if you don’t know.
I’ve always sent mine to John Thomas. I think a tuned rifle is so sweet if done right.

 

[extradrygin2001]

I would say don’t get the fever and spend all your shooting money on a bunch of new guns. Try and pick the exact one you want and do your best to wear it out, and if you do a new spring and piston seal is not that much money.

 

[extradrygin2001]

I'm not particularly thrilled with my .22 54/56 performance for the weight and power level (22fpe with 15.89gr JSBs) it should be a 1/4" gun at 30m but I'm finding it just can't do that. A typical 10 shot group from mine is closer to 3/4" at that range. I'm still fiddling with it some but to be completely honest I don't think it will ever be much better than 1/2". My 17fpe .22 HW97K blows it out of the water.

You should try to get the 54 to 17ftlbs I wonder how it would shoot? I like the design of the side lever.

 

[Sqwirl57]

You should try to get the 54 to 17ftlbs I wonder how it would shoot? I like the design of the side lever.

It came at 17ftlbs and really it didn't shoot too much better. What I have learned about the gun is that it absolutely is not invulnerable to hold sensitivity and it is very follow through sensative. I can shoot it better now than I could a year and a half ago when I made that comment.

What that gun really needs is to be short stroked by a good 30-40mm. Then it would be a solid 17fpe shooter. Even then I still don't think it would be any better than a standard fixed barrel at that given power level

 

[top1000nole]

Make sure your scope is always tight

 

[olde grunt]

I am in rather urgent need of some advice, concerning my FWB 300 SU rebuild.. i recently purchased weaver to picatinny adapters for my scope... Im kind of at my witts ends, i have had a heck of a time getting scope rings and now mounts to keep from moving as the adapter mounts are not posted. And the FWB doesn't have a post hole either. Im almost have tempted to get someone to weld a 1\4" piece of steel on the top of the dovetail in the rear... I've purchased at lest half a dozen different ring sets, and they are all cheap aluminum or not tall enough for what i need. Now the adapters gave me perfect height but they move.. getting kinda discouraged and expensive.. If anyone has any ideas im all ears? Please sound off.