I guess you're going to have to show me. What gun is so poorly machined that the rail is not square to the bore?
It happens more often than you might think. The advice given above is very good.
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I guess you're going to have to show me. What gun is so poorly machined that the rail is not square to the bore?
Before anything, should optically center it, if possible. Then use adjustable mounts. Should use the turret clicks last.
https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2005/07/how-to-optically-center-a-scope/
https://rifleopticsworld.com/optically-center-scope/
I presume you’re referring to elevation. For windage, what you get is what the mounts dictate.
I think you skipped the part where you aligned the vertical reticle to the bore. Or I missed it.Yall thinkin too hard. Just tape up a piece of paper then use a level and draw a line. Have your rings loose enough to rotate the scope but not skip if you let go and adjust to the line. Then cinch down. Bonus points if you want to make sure your scope is in the right position forwards and backwards, shoulder the gun with your eyes closed, get comfortable and open your eyes. Move your head back and forth to get the best sight picture. Whichever way you moved your head move the scope. Repeat till the scope picture is perfect when you open your eyes.
You definitely missed it. First few sentences of what I wrote.I think you skipped the part where you aligned the vertical reticle to the bore. Or I missed it.
Please explain how the vertical reticle is aligned to the barrels bore.You definitely missed it. First few sentences of what I wrote.
There is no such thing as a vertical reticle. It's just a reticle. Its made up of windage and elevation crosshairs and if you have marks along the crosshairs, those are called stadia. If you set up a target and tape a plain sheet of paper to it and draw a level line, then go look through the scope at that line. Rotate the scope in the mounts until the horizontal crosshair matches the line you drew. The elevation crosshair will be 90 degrees to that. You can't adjust them independently. If you doubt your level or ability to draw a line using it, you can use a plumb bob, a string with a weight attached to it and align the elevation crosshair to that. The post above shows a good method too if you can't look through the scope while you rotate it, but it requires a bit more of a solid stationary setup.Please explain how the vertical reticle is aligned to the barrels bore.
Neither this ^ description nor the previous one...If you set up a target and tape a plain sheet of paper to it and draw a level line, then go look through the scope at that line. Rotate the scope in the mounts until the horizontal crosshair matches the line you drew.
...aligns the reticle to the bore, thus the projectile's trajectory cannot be assured of tracking along the vertical bar of the reticle when shooting.Just tape up a piece of paper then use a level and draw a line. Have your rings loose enough to rotate the scope but not skip if you let go and adjust to the line. Then cinch down.
But they do level the scope which is what OP asked. Getting into cant error, you need to shoot the gun. Could be how the gun is held or the rail not machined right, both are common. Zero at 30 yards. Shoot at 5 yards and at 55 yards to check vertical tracking. To the right at 5 and left at 55 its canted to the left. left at 5 and right at 55 canted to the right. Adjust accordingly and level scope again.Neither this ^ description nor the previous one...
...aligns the reticle to the bore, thus the projectile's trajectory cannot be assured of tracking along the vertical bar of the reticle when shooting.
Leveling the scope to a line drawn with a spirit level while holding the gun (read: barrel) at an arbitrary angle establishes a similarly arbitrary relationship between the scope and the bore...which is a perfectly reasonable approach if the plan is to then experimentally test and adjust out any potential cant error. We just had no way of knowing until you stated it in your most recent post:But they do level the scope which is what OP asked.
Technically the initial "leveling" step in this case is not really leveling the scope*, it is to get it somewhere in the ballpark before moving on to shooting and tweaking as necessary to keep the trajectory on the vertical bar of the reticle. Like Harv said, the end result is what matters.Zero at 30 yards. Shoot at 5 yards and at 55 yards to check vertical tracking. To the right at 5 and left at 55 its canted to the left. left at 5 and right at 55 canted to the right. Adjust accordingly and level scope again.
Tell us who on this forum, would ever align their elevation crosshair to a plumb bob??If you doubt your level or ability to draw a line using it, you can use a plumb bob, a string with a weight attached to it and align the elevation crosshair to that.
I try my best to level the turret not so much the reticle.
Assuming that each shot is at the exact speed (fps), barometric conditions, wind speed, rifle position, etc.I've been doing this for a spell, it's not that hard.... I've used the wedge and I've done the flashlight /level/plumb bob as well.
The key to any method (Pick one you like) is to shoot a ladder test and confirm vertical tracking and the POI follows. That's what is important. Not how you get there.