Just received my trap-looks great and is easy to carry. I'm in line for 2 more, after Pete gets caught up. Thank you for thinking of us.
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Hello @Str8tshooterMy BBPT’s came today and they are Solid, all setup for shooting tomorrow. Thanks Thomas!View attachment 333191
Hello @Str8tshooterI just wanted to report that I have a little over 100 JSB heavies into the BBPT and I could'nt be happier with my purchase!
Hello @kirkairGot my trap last week. I put a piece of 3/4" thick horse stall mat rubber in front, with stainless steel bolts. Then put the trap inside a plywood box with another piece of stall mat material in the back, in case someone gets a little off target.
Just got it all done yesterday and gonna shoot some after lunch today.
The rubber should knock off most the velocity so the pellets won't slam the back steel. It also works well to hold targets with push pins.
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That is a really nice target set up wow.Thomas,
It's just reflection from the plywood box interior which is painted blue. I was using leftover paint I had so blue inside and brown outside.
I have a big backstop too, as I'm in a residential area on one acre. Probably overkill, but being cautious too.
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Really nice.Hello everyone,
I wanted a really good Pellet Trap that I could use both indoors and outdoors and one that would last for a long time. I could not find anything that I liked so I designed one from scratch, what I call the Big Bang Pellet Trap.
I designed it to be made out of aluminum ( except for the interior backing plate ) for two main reasons: 1) It would last forever in any weather conditions and, 2) It cuts the overall weight down for easy handling. The Target Face Opening is framed with aluminum angle for added reinforcement strength and a place to clamp on the cardboard backing material for your paper targets. An additional aluminum angel is added on the bottom at the back to act as a footing so that the Trap can be placed on a level surface. The front and rear angle can also have some holes drilled, for some screws to hold a “block” of wood to mount on a post or pipe.
The “back plate” of the Trap is set at an angle to reduce the impact of the pellet and deflect it downward and creating a “trap” for the spent pellets. The angle also eliminates any splatter from the pellet that would cause damage the backside of the paper target.
I added a 11-gauge ( 1/8" ) thick mild steel interior “backing plate” to enhance the strength so as to eliminate damage caused by a pellet. I have spent many weeks testing this Pellet Trap from 10-meters out to 50-yards and as a result I have determined that it can be safely shot with no damage under the following conditions:
At 10-meters no more than 30fpe, ( foot pounds of energy )
At 25-yards no more than 55fpe, ( foot pounds of energy )
At 50-yards no more than 70fpe, ( foot pounds of energy )
I have shot this Trap almost 600 times as of today and it shows no sign of wear at all.
I designed this for use with Airgun Pellets ONLY, NOT to be used with any rim fire of center fire ammunition.
I have a good friend who owns a welding fabrication shop and asked him to build two of these Traps for me and here are a couple of photos. They work great and are so easy to set up, change targets, change target backing material, move to different locations and easy to store. All of the spent pellets and target paper and cardboard backing material that has been shot winds up inside for a no mess and easy clean up.
ThomasT
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Just shot three mags at it. Shooting an FX Wildcat Mk3 in .22 with 16 grain pellets. They go right through the rubber, steel sheet knocks 'em down to the bottom of the trap. Works great but a bit loud still when they hit the steel for the quiet properties around me. I need to do something to tame the sound a little.That horse stall mat looks durable. I wonder it it will work with lower powered guns without pellets getting stuck in the rubber? What kind of power does it take to penetrate it?