Black Yong Heng oil

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Dog

Dog

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Jul 22, 2023
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My 4 year old Yong Heng turns RP then switched to Seco Lube 500, black, after an hour or so. Other users reported their oil does not turn black. Well, been so dang hot I have not used the Yong Heng for the last two months. Lol, the Seco oil is now clear after sitting so poured it off and cleared the remaining black sludge. I had tried a coffee filter but just made the coffee taste like crap early on last year.

Sorry if this covered in many back posts. Pump still makes good pressure but have collected parts for rebuild when non cooled garage below 98F. I'll stay on high temp rated oil from rebuild on... Cheers.
 
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Royal Purple is notorious for discoloring. I switched to Husky, Full Synthetic & got 3.5 years on my last compressor (Yong Heng). My latest YH is about 8 months old now & the Husky is as crystal clear as day one! Have about 2 hours run time on the new YH. I'm sticking with what works for me.
 
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Fanatic about keeping YH cool, rarely over 50 degrees C, just filling guns. Used HUSKY Full Synthetic Compressor Oil (Flash Point 460F) first two years without issue, no odors but did find evidence of combustion on high-pressure piston. Switched to SecoLube 500 (Flash Point 520F) ($37@ quart) enough for next two annual oil changes, as well. WM
 
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Have you checked it again since changing to SecoLube. Another thing how often do you guys check your
compressors got carbon build up. I would love to see honest opinions posted . That would truly help us
all. It is so easy to get hooked up on what we think is the best oils. You all know that. That is why I ordered
this Tribo Dyno 1100 oil. I plan to pull my head on my compressor clean any deposits I will Install the head
& keep a log on running time & report back, yay or nay as to results. how much time do you guys think would
be a fair adjustment? It would be nice to see others do the same. We are here to learn from one another. We
can use this great form to learn, with out hear say. Your thoughts?

🪰Fly
 
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You can find why best to use non detergent on compressor / oil help sites ..

Then if your houng hang and other like compressor recomendd aw46 hydrolic oil ( for non breathing usage) not all that your using that may not even be suitable for high pressure use / household shop type compressor..

Like here
bevor.png
 
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Trucker3573 said:
Haven’t tried a yong heng. Always been curious. They seem like they push small compression components kind of hard and why you get heat and rebuilds. How many hours on average do these things last ? Are they difficult to rebuild ?
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Trucker,

Anytime you compress a Gas it creates Heat. Heat kills, damn near everything. These are a really simple design. Motor with crankshaft, that has a floating piston rod on it, an aluminum Piston, with a pencil sized rod in the center, that center rod has synthetic rings at the top. The piston is for the lower pressure side and pump air up into the High Side through those SS Tubes, the Pencil Rod compresses it and pushes it out into your tank.

Lots of these have been sold and if taken care of (keep them below 50ºC at the head, use the correct High Pressure Oil and change every now and again) thye will last.

Parts are readily available and affordable for rebuilding.

Smitty
 
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Fly said:
Have you checked it again since changing to SecoLube. Another thing how often do you guys check your
compressors got carbon build up. I would love to see honest opinions posted . That would truly help us
all. It is so easy to get hooked up on what we think is the best oils. You all know that. That is why I ordered
this Tribo Dyno 1100 oil. I plan to pull my head on my compressor clean any deposits I will Install the head
& keep a log on running time & report back, yay or nay as to results. how much time do you guys think would
be a fair adjustment? It would be nice to see others do the same. We are here to learn from one another. We
can use this great form to learn, with out hear say. Your thoughts?

🪰Fly
Click to expand...
Rookie mistake pulling high-pressure head to investigate increasing fill times, real reason was bad "O" ring in a quick-disconnect fitting. Cost a gasket but learned to deadhead system and use soapy water spray bottle to check for leaks, first. Dark, oily deposits on high pressure piston were evident but easily wiped off. (Some have posted pictures of much worse here and on YouTube.) Tricky business dealing with stainless steel lines so no plans to pull high-pressure head unless confident that an internal compressor problem exists. WM
 
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Trucker3573 said:
Haven’t tried a yong heng. Always been curious. They seem like they push small compression components kind of hard and why you get heat and rebuilds. How many hours on average do these things last ? Are they difficult to rebuild ?
Click to expand...
Get an authentic and keep it cool, they last for years. Inexpensive repair parts are readily available as are easy to follow "how-to" videos by Air Velocity Sport and Sambo Cotton. Fast filling and powerful enough to manage multi-filter oil/water removal systems, Yong Heng is a gamechanger. Water, fan and crankcase-oil cooled from the factory many owners use ice, exterior fans and high flash point oil to assist. Not considered portable but able fill large tanks without a problem. WM
 
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I run my water pump thru a transmission cooler, like an auxiliary one you'd add to a tow vehicle, and have a 4" high flow muffin fan on that to draw heat out.

I just bought a higher flow pump and larger cooler and have another fan. Going to make a new compressor stand and upgrade the cooling system. My temps stay under 50 for filling guns with 300 bar 500cc bottles, and never go over 53C when filling up my 3L bottle. I give 15 minute cool downstairs when filling my bottles though. They might hit 52C for a couple minutes and then I shut t down and let it drop back to 20-22C.

My pump is also in a 68F basement.
 
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i just made a simple cool can with 1/4 copper tubing and a 1/2-gallon igloo round cooler full of ice
put it on the return line and it cools the water going back to the 5-gal tank
i also wrapped all 3 high pressure lines their water cooled as well.
i can run this compressor 1/2 hr=40 min and keep temps to 45c usually fill 1 1.6l bottle at a time
1 also added a 8 in 480 cfm cage fan keeps the Elec motor and electronics cool as well.
i use royal purple (been using for 20+ years in my drag cars no issues) i also added an hrs. meter and change the oil every 3 hrs. of use

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88turbocoupe said:
i just made a simple cool can with 1/4 copper tubing and a 1/2-gallon igloo round cooler full of ice
put it on the return line and it cools the water going back to the 5-gal tank
i also wrapped all 3 high pressure lines their water cooled as well.
i can run this compressor 1/2 hr=40 min and keep temps to 45c usually fill 1 1.6l bottle at a time
1 also added a 8 in 480 cfm cage fan keeps the Elec motor and electronics cool as well.
i use royal purple (been using for 20+ years in my drag cars no issues) i also added an hrs. meter and change the oil every 3 hrs. of use

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That's some fine "cooling mod" work you did but I have a question. With the time you invested in cooling off the water return (back into water reservoir) do you think your water going into the compressor would be any cooler than MY water? I keep 2, .5 gallon plastic milk jugs full of water, frozen solid in my freezer & drop into bucket when I run the compressor. I'm willing to bet that after all that work you invested in cooling your return water it's not any cooler than mine going out (to compressor). Only takes me a few seconds to drop my "ice blocks" into the bucket or return them to freezer. You did NICE WORK but was it worth time & mat'ls invested?
 
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Gerry52 said:
Royal Purple is notorious for discoloring. I switched to Husky, Full Synthetic & got 3.5 years on my last compressor (Yong Heng). My latest YH is about 8 months old now & the Husky is as crystal clear as day one! Have about 2 hours run time on the new YH. I'm sticking with what works for me.
Click to expand...
Good for you. Hope you post pictures of your failed 2nd stage piston (?) which I can only think that is failing on mine.
 
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Gerry52 said:
That's some fine "cooling mod" work you did but I have a question. With the time you invested in cooling off the water return (back into water reservoir) do you think your water going into the compressor would be any cooler than MY water? I keep 2, .5 gallon plastic milk jugs full of water, frozen solid in my freezer & drop into bucket when I run the compressor. I'm willing to bet that after all that work you invested in cooling your return water it's not any cooler than mine going out (to compressor). Only takes me a few seconds to drop my "ice blocks" into the bucket or return them to freezer. You did NICE WORK but was it worth time & mat'ls invested?
Click to expand...
Same here using frozen jugs out of freezer. I think the weak link is the top aluminum 2nd stage shroud and its ability to transfer heat. I have seen considerable inside corrosion build up from Cotton's 5 year old rebuild. I'm trying out Red Line water wetter instead of antifreeze, in the past, to avoid any issues. I think I'm a bit faster off the line...
 
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