Sheridan Blue Streak crossed threads

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J

JayDee24ca

Member
Feb 21, 2022
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BC, Canada
I am looking for advice on how to accurately chase the threads into which the valve nut is turned. The valve nut (square hole) is made of steel, and the barrel threads are of brass, and located deep in the actual barrel. My concern is now to accurately start my tap into those threads, being so far down in the barrel. I have a 5/8 - 32 tap and die for the job. The threads on the steel nut are fine, as would be expected, but I am having a devil of a time starting them into the barrel.
I am likely to only get one shot at this, so advice is very welcome!
Thanks!
JD
 
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In my experience you can tell where the threads begin by rotating the bolt / screw / tap counterclockwise until you hear / feel it click as it drops a few thousandths into the point where the threads start. That has saved me a ton of frustration over these long years of repairing things.

Cheers,

J~
 
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Treefrog said:
In my experience you can tell where the threads begin by rotating the bolt / screw / tap counterclockwise until you hear / feel it click as it drops a few thousandths into the point where the threads start. That has saved me a ton of frustration over these long years of repairing things.

Cheers,

J~
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Yes, that might work, although the first couple of threads are pretty bunged up.
 
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and why are you trying to do this work in the tube and not on the bench
is the piece not removable
the chances that you could fix this with it in hand are 50-50 but doing it blind are very poor i would think
i would love some pictures
okay after watch a video i now understand i thing the thread are the ones the valve nut threads into
and no i could not find a tap either
 
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Your chances of finding a 21/32-32 tap are slim. It'll most likely have to be a special order. Both the Benjamins and Sheridans with soldered valves use the same threads. I searched for years and finally got lucky and picked one up off eBay in case I ever needed it. As you found out, they cannot be chased from the front, like on a Crosman 10X series. Occasionally, lead particles get smeared into the threads, making them feel tight and giving the impression that something is off when the nut is screwed in. As a general rule, before installing the other valve parts, chase the threads by flipping the valve nut backwards. That would be the flat side of the nut facing down. Turn it counterclockwise until it clicks into the threads. If it feels tighter than it should as you start to turn it clockwise, then stop and try again. Honestly, it's just the feeling, whether you know if it's true or not. If it's actually cross-threaded, then "take a punt" and send it to a pro.
 
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Mike, Thanks for the offer to have a look at this gun. I have a couple of C508's in the mail. I am going to gently see if I can make this right with a fresh nut. I bought this rifle as a project, and it certainly has been. It would leak down as fast as you could pump, and I suspect the botched threads had a lot to do with it. I just finished a brand new stock and pump arm I built from 2 inch cherry, so I have a vested interest in seeing this through to the end!
 
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I had this issue and turned the nut backwards and it went right in.
I knew it was original, and how it came out, but had nothing to loose at that point

This was how it came out.

Screenshot_20240506_204505_Gallery.jpg
 
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