HW/Weihrauch Breaking in a new HW97K

[bzizzi373]

Picked up a blemished HW97K from Pyramid Air just over a month ago, stock had one small mark underneath and that was it, it looked brand new. I mounted a Hawke scope with 2pc Sportmatch mounts and sighted in at 35 yards. Tried several different pellets, one day gun would like JSB's and then the H&N FTT ammo then Crosman Premier 7.9's.
Was kind of all over the place first 500 rounds but still decent accuracy as gun was breaking in I got the occasional dieseling. Stock screws kept coming loose and were loose when I received gun from PA, the pin that holds the cocking lever latch in place kept backing out, and a little green lock tight took care of that.
I ended up removing stock and hardening wood around stock screws with some thin Mercury Adhesives CA and this solved the loose screw issue.
After about 1000 rounds I made a slight adjustment to trigger and it's right at a crisp one pound. I ran over chronograph and gun really settled in nicely and to my surprise likes Crosman Premier 7.9 gr the best, velocity is very consistant hovering right around 900 FPS, I also noticed long range accuracy at 75 yards is outstanding with the Premiers, these little pellets shoot a full mil dot flatter at this distance compared to the same weight JSB and the heavier H&N's. In past years the first thing I would do is tune any springer I purchased with a kit but the more I shoot this gun the smoother it gets with less and less spring twang. I really see no need to take this springer apart, just needed a few tins of ammo shot through it to break in. Just curious what gun will be like with say 5K rounds through it. I have several springers and quality PCP's but am really enjoying the 97 right now.
I placed a target out at 45 yards and resting off porch post standing up I placed ten shots that I could cover with a quarter with the Premiers, I was blown away when I approached the target and saw the group. These cheap Crosman Pellets from Walmart are awesome.

 

[.20calguy]

75 yards is my prefered range.
I'm shooting a .20 cal.

 

[Bedrock Bob]

Mine is a .22. So read this accordingly. It will all apply to the .177 in theory.

That pin in the cocking linkage will be a problem. When it gets loose it affects both the trigger/safety engagement at the rear of the stroke and the cylinder closing against the breech when locked in the forward position.

It will wear if there is ANY play in it at all. It is tight in the cocking arm and slips at the cocking lever. If it is not press fit tight in the cocking arm and peened tight in the lever you are going to have trouble. It will wallow a bit and wear fast.

Been there done that. It is the weakest link in the underlever system.

Shoot pellets between 14 and 17 grains. The H&N and JSB are equal out to 45-50 yards. Past that the JSB's are tighter and more stable. Mine prefers a 5.55 in H&N as the bore is a bit big. Any JSB in the right weight range will shoot well.

You can't tell which pellet it's going to like until you get 1000 shots through it. So just enjoy it a while until things settle and you get used to shooting it. Then you will see a difference in pellets. Until then you are just chasing shadows.

Mine hates being rested at the butt. It hates a bag up front. My best patterns are off a tripod with the butt held against the shoulder. It will group 30 pellets within 1/4" ctc at 25 yards this way. You may find a sweet spot off a bag but it will take some experimentation. Don't give up. These are super accurate guns that shoot lights out once you figure them out.

The cocking linkage is a problem. If you shoot much it WILL wear out. Keep an eye on it. It's a simple fix but it will cause all sorts of headache if (when) it wears. If it's not tight and perfect you WILL have to address it. It causes the cylinder to slam into the breech seal when firing and the safety to not engage. When it gets bad your trigger will not lock even at full stroke. It's just the way an underlever with a sliding cylinder is designed. I think most guys who shoot them regularly have battled with this.

 

[Vincent10]

The HW97s seem to shoot most pellets well. I have one tuned to about 11 fpe and the other with a Vortek HO kit. Both are capable of 1 hole groups at 10 meters with Crosman pellets. The FTT 4.52 are a good pellet and the Norma FT Heavy is another worth trying for windy conditions past 30 yards.

 

[.20calguy]

Mine is a .22. So read this accordingly. It will all apply to the .177 in theory.

That pin in the cocking linkage will be a problem. When it gets loose it affects both the trigger/safety engagement at the rear of the stroke and the cylinder closing against the breech when locked in the forward position.

It will wear if there is ANY play in it at all. It is tight in the cocking arm and slips at the cocking lever. If it is not press fit tight in the cocking arm and peened tight in the lever you are going to have trouble. It will wallow a bit and wear fast.

Been there done that. It is the weakest link in the underlever system.

Shoot pellets between 14 and 17 grains. The H&N and JSB are equal out to 45-50 yards. Past that the JSB's are tighter and more stable. Mine prefers a 5.55 in H&N as the bore is a bit big. Any JSB in the right weight range will shoot well.

You can't tell which pellet it's going to like until you get 1000 shots through it. So just enjoy it a while until things settle and you get used to shooting it. Then you will see a difference in pellets. Until then you are just chasing shadows.

Mine hates being rested at the butt. It hates a bag up front. My best patterns are off a tripod with the butt held against the shoulder. It will group 30 pellets within 1/4" ctc at 25 yards this way. You may find a sweet spot off a bag but it will take some experimentation. Don't give up. These are super accurate guns that shoot lights out once you figure them out.

The cocking linkage is a problem. If you shoot much it WILL wear out. Keep an eye on it. It's a simple fix but it will cause all sorts of headache if (when) it wears. If it's not tight and perfect you WILL have to address it. It causes the cylinder to slam into the breech seal when firing and the safety to not engage. When it gets bad your trigger will not lock even at full stroke. It's just the way an underlever with a sliding cylinder is designed. I think most guys who shoot them regularly have battled with this.

Mine went back under warranty for difficulty latching and not engaging the safety. AoA wouldn't tell me what failed, only that it was repaired and the Vortec kit that I ordered was added.
I was at 7 1/2 tins, when it failed to latch.

 

[Bedrock Bob]

Mine went back under warranty for difficulty latching and not engaging the safety. AoA wouldn't tell me what failed, only that it was repaired and the Vortec kit that I ordered was added.
I was at 7 1/2 tins, when it failed to latch.

Could have been the linkage. Thats what happens when theres slack in it.

Im still watching the wear on mine. Oil it every session. AOA has been great about repairs. Still a new cocking arm and pin is an easy fix. Peening the pin tight is the only trick.

Had some spring issues too. A kit will fix that. I'm still running a stock spring and seal. It shoots fine. A little springy. No big deal.

The rifle is a freaking hammer. I love it. Shotgun shells at 80 and little plastic outlaws at 50. Just one right after the other.

 

[bustachip]

Could have been the linkage. Thats what happens when theres slack in it.

Im still watching the wear on mine. Oil it every session. AOA has been great about repairs. Still a new cocking arm and pin is an easy fix. Peening the pin tight is the only trick.

Had some spring issues too. A kit will fix that. I'm still running a stock spring and seal. It shoots fine. A little springy. No big deal.

The rifle is a freaking hammer. I love it. Shotgun shells at 80 and little plastic outlaws at 50. Just one right after the other.

View attachment 488160

Good shooting.

 

[Bedrock Bob]

Good shooting.

Thank you!

That's not me bro. That's the rifle. I just hold it on target and slap the trigger.

 

[bustachip]

Picked up a blemished HW97K from Pyramid Air just over a month ago, stock had one small mark underneath and that was it, it looked brand new. I mounted a Hawke scope with 2pc Sportmatch mounts and sighted in at 35 yards. Tried several different pellets, one day gun would like JSB's and then the H&N FTT ammo then Crosman Premier 7.9's.
Was kind of all over the place first 500 rounds but still decent accuracy as gun was breaking in I got the occasional dieseling. Stock screws kept coming loose and were loose when I received gun from PA, the pin that holds the cocking lever latch in place kept backing out, and a little green lock tight took care of that.
I ended up removing stock and hardening wood around stock screws with some thin Mercury Adhesives CA and this solved the loose screw issue.
After about 1000 rounds I made a slight adjustment to trigger and it's right at a crisp one pound. I ran over chronograph and gun really settled in nicely and to my surprise likes Crosman Premier 7.9 gr the best, velocity is very consistant hovering right around 900 FPS, I also noticed long range accuracy at 75 yards is outstanding with the Premiers, these little pellets shoot a full mil dot flatter at this distance compared to the same weight JSB and the heavier H&N's. In past years the first thing I would do is tune any springer I purchased with a kit but the more I shoot this gun the smoother it gets with less and less spring twang. I really see no need to take this springer apart, just needed a few tins of ammo shot through it to break in. Just curious what gun will be like with say 5K rounds through it. I have several springers and quality PCP's but am really enjoying the 97 right now.
I placed a target out at 45 yards and resting off porch post standing up I placed ten shots that I could cover with a quarter with the Premiers, I was blown away when I approached the target and saw the group. These cheap Crosman Pellets from Walmart are awesome.

The 97K is a hard to beat spring piston rifle. I bought mine 2007 for $499 at Straight Shooters.
It's a Beeman model with Huntington Beach CA on the right side.

Over the years I've tuned mine several times with different combinations, and I've ended up with a 13fpe shooting 8.48 gr at around 835 fps and it's about where I like it at. It will shoot benched off of bags, or off of cross sticks, or propped up against a tree, it doesn't matter. It shoots JSB's well and some H&N's, but currently my pellet of choice is the QYS 8.48 gr. I would recommend you try some.

Mine will also shoot the 7.9 crosman premiers, but they are really snug loading. The QYS is the cleanest and best looking I've shot. It also doesn't turn your thumb black..lol. Smallest groups I've ever shot with my 97K, was with JSB 8.44 and QYS 8.48, but the current JSB 8.44 aren't as good in mine as they were years ago.

Here a target shot the other day at 40 yards rested on bags with QYS 8.48's and using a $125 Hawke 2-7X32 at 7power. The red dots are 1.0" diameter.

5-shot groups. The one shot thru the squirrel KZ is 4 shots, at about a 1/4 diam.
I've had my 97K set up with about 8 different scopes over the years, from "high dollar" scopes to the one I have now only $125, and they all worked great. I'm kinda digging this little light weight Hawke at less than a pound right now.

They are fun rifles to shoot and work on if you like to tinker, so don't be afraid to try different stuff. Some snug fitting delrin spring guides will remove the twang if it bothers you.

 

[Bedrock Bob]

Hey there Bustachip!

I shoot the same rail with the same rings and the same scope on my Hatsan rifles (I'm assuming those are Burris steel z rings. If not they are just like them).

That's a rock solid setup.

It's funny how after years of trial and error guys wind up in the same spot. It's either that or great minds think alike. It could be both.

Has that cocking linkage given you trouble over all these years?

 

[bustachip]

Hey there Bustachip!

I shoot the same rail with the same rings and the same scope on my Hatsan rifles (I'm assuming those are Burris steel z rings. If not they are just like them).

That's a rock solid setup.

It's funny how after years of trial and error guys wind up in the same spot. It's either that or great minds think alike. It could be both.

Has that cocking linkage given you trouble over all these years?

Yes they're signature zee rings with eccentric inserts so I can get the scope real close to POA without adjusting the turrets on an optically centered scope.
I've never had to do anything to the cocking linkages, but it does have a slight amount of slop, not sure which pin it is though. Next time I have it apart I'll look closer at it. But it cocks and shoot just fine.
Only time it ever gave any trouble was when the factory spring broke and it wouldn't latch correctly. Currently using a old JM QX4600 spring with thousands of shots on it. Other than that never had a problem with it.

 

[Bedrock Bob]

Yes they're signature zee rings with eccentric inserts so I can get the scope real close to POA without adjusting the turrets on an optically centered scope.
I've never had to do anything to the cocking linkages, but it does have a slight amount of slop, not sure which pin it is though. Next time I have it apart I'll look closer at it. But it cocks and shoot just fine.
Only time it ever gave any trouble was when the factory spring broke and it wouldn't latch correctly. Currently using a old JM QX4600 spring with thousands of shots on it. Other than that never had a problem with it.

That's good info. Thanks!

I figure the cocking linkage will work for years unless it gets loose. Then wears pretty fast. Like any other sliding surface. I think mine had some slack from the factory and just wore prematurely. It's doing great now but I keep an eye on it every time I cock it.

I've been bending barrels instead of zeroing scopes. I wouldn't try that with an underlever but it works dandy on a break barrel. No tapered mounts or inserts. Just clamp it in a vice and bend it. So I use the standard Burris 1" super low rings on that rail for my break barrel Hatsans.

Sportsmatch medium rings and a 3x9x40 Airmax on the HW97. It zeroed at 25 yards in 4 clicks windage and 10 elevation. So it didn't need a darn thing to zero it. I have never had issues with scope or slipping in 4-5k shots. So the combo works well and it's mighty close to optical center on this rifle.

The Airmax reticle is just too fine for hunting. And the eye relief is picky. It's a great scope but the regular Hawke Vantage scopes are better for me. I have the fixed 4x Vantage on my HW95 and a couple 3x9 variables for the Hatsans. I like the fixed 4x the best of them all. I think it cost $99.

 

[bustachip]

That's good info. Thanks!

I figure the cocking linkage will work for years unless it gets loose. Then wears pretty fast. Like any other sliding surface. I think mine had some slack from the factory and just wore prematurely. It's doing great now but I keep an eye on it every time I cock it.

I've been bending barrels instead of zeroing scopes. I wouldn't try that with an underlever but it works dandy on a break barrel. No tapered mounts or inserts. Just clamp it in a vice and bend it. So I use the standard Burris 1" super low rings on that rail for my break barrel Hatsans.

Sportsmatch medium rings and a 3x9x40 Airmax on the HW97. It zeroed at 25 yards in 4 clicks windage and 10 elevation. So it didn't need a darn thing to zero it. I have never had issues with scope or slipping in 4-5k shots. So the combo works well and it's mighty close to optical center on this rifle

I've thought about it, but decided against bending the barrel. Mine shoots low and left quite
a bit at 30 yards from POA. So with those eccentric inserts I can correct that. It was strange my old 77K had the same affliction, and I used the same set up for that one also. If it were a break barrel I would try the barrel bending
method.

 

[bustachip]

That's good info. Thanks!

I figure the cocking linkage will work for years unless it gets loose. Then wears pretty fast. Like any other sliding surface. I think mine had some slack from the factory and just wore prematurely. It's doing great now but I keep an eye on it every time I cock it.

I've been bending barrels instead of zeroing scopes. I wouldn't try that with an underlever but it works dandy on a break barrel. No tapered mounts or inserts. Just clamp it in a vice and bend it. So I use the standard Burris 1" super low rings on that rail for my break barrel Hatsans.

Sportsmatch medium rings and a 3x9x40 Airmax on the HW97. It zeroed at 25 yards in 4 clicks windage and 10 elevation. So it didn't need a darn thing to zero it. I have never had issues with scope or slipping in 4-5k shots. So the combo works well and it's mighty close to optical center on this rifle.

The Airmax reticle is just too fine for hunting. And the eye relief is picky. It's a great scope but the regular Hawke Vantage scopes are better for me. I have the fixed 4x Vantage on my HW95 and a couple 3x9 variables for the Hatsans. I like the fixed 4x the best of them all. I think it cost $99.

Which reticle do you have in the 3-9X40 airmax?

 

[Bedrock Bob]

I've thought about it, but decided against bending the barrel. Mine shoots low and left quite
a bit at 30 yards from POA. So with those eccentric inserts I can correct that. It was strange my old 77K had the same affliction, and I used the same set up for that one also. If it were a break barrel I would try the barrel bending
method.

The way the barrel is connected to that rifle is funky. I took one look and decided I wasn't going to put stress on any of it. You could make a jig to do it out on the barrel for sure. It just makes more sense to do an adjustment in the scope alignment on those rifles.

 

[Bedrock Bob]

Which reticle do you have in the 3-9X40 airmax?

The fine etched one. Lots of dots and dashes. Brackets down low.

Great markings if you like that much "stuff". Just too darn fine against shadows or dark backgrounds. If you are shooting targets they are great. Pointing into desert scrub notsomuch.

 

[bustachip]

The way the barrel is connected to that rifle is funky. I took one look and decided I wasn't going to put stress on any of it. You could make a jig to do it out on the barrel for sure. It just makes more sense to do an adjustment in the scope alignment on those rifles.

That, and the cocking arm has to be inline to relatch.

 

[bustachip]

The fine etched one. Lots of dots and dashes. Brackets down low.

Great markings if you like that much "stuff". Just too darn fine against shadows or dark backgrounds. If you are shooting targets they are great. Pointing into desert scrub notsomuch.

This one would be good for hunting or desert scrub brush I suppose, a little thick for fine target work, but it makes it more challenging.

Not the best picture, it's a mill dot, and not bad.

 

[Bedrock Bob]

That, and the cocking arm has to be inline to relatch.

It doesn't take much. The bend is imperceptible.

I hear what you are saying and I share your concern. I honestly don't think it takes much bend to make the POI move. I think the latch wouldn't even know it. But that's just a guess and I wouldn't be surprised if I was wrong.

 

[bustachip]

It doesn't take much. The bend is imperceptible. I hear what you are saying and I share your concern. But I honestly don't think it takes much bend to make the POI move. I think the latch wouldn't even know it. But that's just a guess and I wouldn't be surprised I was wrong.

Reloaded a much better picture of the reticle in the upper post, you can see the small mill dots on this one.