BRK Ghost Review
- Thread starter Franklink
- Start date
1st Thanks... I started out asking :: I bought a BRK 22 plus-17 inch barrel.... But they Sold me a BRK .177 with a .22 barrel.... After reading your wright up on the Ghost I was confused. Then in #619 thru... there were statements that they were all the same and statements they were different... Therefore Is my "trim" BRK .177 with a .22 barrel the exact same as a BRK .22..
just worried that by using the BRK .177 base rather than the BRK .22 there are lessor differences ?? Springs.?? Hope this is clear...
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@pesty3782, did your .22 Carbine come with the 0.047" or to 0.052" wire spring?
@revdoc, how do you know it was a .177 gun that they swapped a .22 barrel onto? Did the retailer say as much?
Since both barrels were 17" (non-HP) I suspect your gun is identical to a .22 Plus that started as a .22 Plus.
If you didnt get the hammer spring you were hoping to receive, the good news is that you can probably contact AOA and get the other hammer spring. If that's what you need to be satisfied with your purchase.
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@revdoc So, I just shot 30 JST 18.1g pellets from my HP ghost with the .047" spring. I shot with my middle finger "weird " so I could keep my trigger finger on the cocking handle And I had NO unusual kicks or movement other than the normal firing sequence. No air anywhere. If your gun is inaccurate and giving wrong feed back during the shot cycle call Chris at Datstate USA (AOA)!
Is your cocking handle lever parallel with the frame when closed?
Is your cocking handle lever parallel with the frame when closed?
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I think my issue with the cocking handle jolt upon firing might be an anomaly. I’ll see what I can do to remedy the issue when I get home today.
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The Ghost has pretty tight tolerances.....I recently was fiddling with the rear end and found that I accidentally induced a bind in the cocking by tightening the bottom bolt for the drop-down before the top three bolts. As soon as I got it back together I knew something wasnt right, the easy smooth cocking had been replaced with roughness and a binding feel. Took me awhile to isolate it but eventually narrowed it down to the order in which I tightend those four bolts that hold the rear (part that contacts shoulder pocket when shooting) section to the rest of the gun.
Just an example to illustrate that something may not be exactly aligned properly and is causing the jolt you describe.
Just an example to illustrate that something may not be exactly aligned properly and is causing the jolt you describe.
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The grub screw to which I’m referring in the video plugs a hole within the internal compressed air region/cavity of the firing chamber. I’m thinking that since all the air will not escape out the barrel when a pellet is fired, some of it will escape around that grub screw, which is directly below the cocking rail linkage. I am questioning what the reason is of drilling a hole and screwing in a grub screw in that particular area.
This is the grub screw:
This is the grub screw:
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Upon closer inspection, that threaded hole on which the grub screw goes is directly above the air transfer port that channels the air to the barrel. I think that was the drill bit’s entry hole to enter from to drill the transfer port hole and when drilling was complete the grub screw was inserted to plug the entry hole. If indeed air is escaping from or around the screw, BRK didn’t use any sealing agent (o-ring, teflon tape around the grub screw, Loctite, etc.) to prevent any air leaks due to air escaping around the barrel, which might be causing the vibration, and why I’m getting some inaccuracy. Perhaps my gun was made on a Friday and the assembler forgot to apply sealant?
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Upon closer inspection, that threaded hole on which the grub screw goes is directly above the air transfer port that channels the air to the barrel. I think that was the drill bit’s entry hole to enter from to drill the transfer port hole and when drilling was complete the grub screw was inserted to plug the entry hole. If indeed air is escaping from or around the screw, BRK didn’t use any sealing agent (o-ring, teflon tape around the grub screw, Loctite, etc.) to prevent any air leaks due to air escaping around the barrel, which might be causing the vibration, and why I’m getting some inaccuracy. Perhaps my gun was made on a Friday and the assembler forgot to apply sealant?
Could you cock the gun, put it on safety of course, then remove the top rail and hold your finger over that hole when you fire a pellet? That would definitively answer your question as to whether or not your side lever jolt is coming from air escaping out this grub screw.
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I was actually thinking of trying that but am worrried that there might be parts—especially the small, hard-to-find ones—flying off.
Also, AOA just responded to my email and said that on a recent Ghost disassembly there was some threadlocker on the grub screw that was on it. I’ll check if the same can be said for mine when I get home later.
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No idea Cole, I will have to pull the back end off and check. I do have a medium spring at the house and it is the .047.
Tony P.
Tony P.
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Thanks Tony.
The 0.047" wire hammer spring is what came in the .177 Ghost Carbine that started this discussion a year ago.
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I have emailed and called Tenacious Airguns trying to get in touch with Derrick about getting my Ghost HP in for a trigger job and tuning and gotten no replies is there a special password or something (kidding) really want to get this rolling...John Lake
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Special handshake. J/k.
Like so many of us, Derrick has a real job and does his airgun stuff on the side. He'll probably be in touch soon.
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I was doing some Chrono testing in the garage late last night with the Ghost and the cocking bolt on this one has zero "jolt" on the shot.
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Thanx for your reply didnt realize thought it was his full time gig...patience I'm learning is a big part of this airgun obsession a life lesson I still Struggle with at 65 yrs of age....
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Did some shooting with the Ghost this evening.
Shot 2 EBR cards with .20/18.9grain NSA slugs, and two cards with the .20/15.89grain JSB pellets.
100 yards.
Slug results first. Two sighters for the one card, one sighter for the second card, so all 63 shots shown here. I just don't shoot a ton of sighters, not a true benchrest guy I guess. Man I'm always impressed when I shoot these .20 slugs. Just seems too easy.
And here are the two cards with the pellets. Couple more sighters here, but still not many.
After the above I brought the traps in closer, setting one of them at 55 yards. Spun the wheel down to "MIN" for 19.8fpe and shot these using the .20/13.73grain JSBs. This is from bucket and sticks. 5 shots per group. Some got away from me, but the bottom left and top right were pretty good.
No photo but after the above, me and my youngest son cut a 6inch pumpkin in half with pellets. We set it at about 20 yards. He was using his field target gun, and me the Ghost of course. We just made a horizontal line across the pumpkin with multiple shots, it was surprisingly easy. Silly fun, but definitely fun.
Shot 2 EBR cards with .20/18.9grain NSA slugs, and two cards with the .20/15.89grain JSB pellets.
100 yards.
Slug results first. Two sighters for the one card, one sighter for the second card, so all 63 shots shown here. I just don't shoot a ton of sighters, not a true benchrest guy I guess. Man I'm always impressed when I shoot these .20 slugs. Just seems too easy.
And here are the two cards with the pellets. Couple more sighters here, but still not many.
After the above I brought the traps in closer, setting one of them at 55 yards. Spun the wheel down to "MIN" for 19.8fpe and shot these using the .20/13.73grain JSBs. This is from bucket and sticks. 5 shots per group. Some got away from me, but the bottom left and top right were pretty good.
No photo but after the above, me and my youngest son cut a 6inch pumpkin in half with pellets. We set it at about 20 yards. He was using his field target gun, and me the Ghost of course. We just made a horizontal line across the pumpkin with multiple shots, it was surprisingly easy. Silly fun, but definitely fun.
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