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on the first versions there was a screw in there for finer hammer adjustions i believe.
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mr @Franklink has done a 40 page review on the ghost. on page 6 it has the adjustment from the prototypy. but they dont exist on the production models
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@trompis Ok I just pulled my new ghost apart to take a picture of the issue at hand and most definitely are two screw which can be loosened allowing hammer to be positioned tightly against the hammer spring. The great news is, mine was actually a little bit loose so I adjusted and my speed increased enough for me to decrease power wheel.
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@trompis is referencing the adjustable throw hammer that came on the very first Ghosts. The hammer had a threaded nose that could be extended or retracted to adjust the length of hammer throw. And it was accessed through the the rear of the gun, without any disassembly.
The hammers that came in later Ghosts do not have this adjustable length of throw hammer, but instead just a flat spot on the nose of the hammer where it impacts the valve stem.
@cavedweller photos show what I call the cocking foot. It's the tiny "L" shaped piece held into a tiny dovetail in the hammer by those two small bolts. That L shaped piece can be moved forward or rear in its dovetail to also adjust the amount of free float of the hammer, but I've found it best to place it all the way back in its dovetail, and tighten those two bolts with it there. I don't think it was an intended adjustment b/c when I was tinkering with free float distance via the position of the L, it won't ldnt ever hold it's settings. My Lhas been in the rearmost position, and the bolts loktited to keep it there for 18+ months without losing adjustment. And as cavedweller noted, for consistency, you want the bolts that hold the L to the hammer to be tight and to keep the L in the same place on the hammer (again, blue loktite is you're friend here).
The hammers that came in later Ghosts do not have this adjustable length of throw hammer, but instead just a flat spot on the nose of the hammer where it impacts the valve stem.
@cavedweller photos show what I call the cocking foot. It's the tiny "L" shaped piece held into a tiny dovetail in the hammer by those two small bolts. That L shaped piece can be moved forward or rear in its dovetail to also adjust the amount of free float of the hammer, but I've found it best to place it all the way back in its dovetail, and tighten those two bolts with it there. I don't think it was an intended adjustment b/c when I was tinkering with free float distance via the position of the L, it won't ldnt ever hold it's settings. My Lhas been in the rearmost position, and the bolts loktited to keep it there for 18+ months without losing adjustment. And as cavedweller noted, for consistency, you want the bolts that hold the L to the hammer to be tight and to keep the L in the same place on the hammer (again, blue loktite is you're friend here).
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@Franklink - as always your wisdom and experience are very valuable! Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge. I guess I’ll pull my ghost apart one more time and introduce it to some Mr. locktight! When I adjusted and retightened I chronographed 890 and before I had dropped off to 840 and was having intermittent cocking issues.
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apparently i was somewhat right, there was something wrong hammer-wise. the riffle stopped cocking and air started blowing through the barrel. that small part got stuck and would not move
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