Brocock/BRK Brocock Bantam Help. Spray at 55 yards

[Skip-in-WV]

It shots a 10 shot strong of Baracuda 10.65 pellets with a high of 771 and a low of 764. Here are the pellets I've tried. Several do Ok at 25 yards. None at 55.
Less than 1000down the barrel.
Benjamin 10.5
JSB Monster 13.43 (bother regular and redesigned)
Crossman lights
JSB Exact 10.65
JSB 8.44
JSB Beast 16.2
H&N FTT 8.64
H&N Sniper Medium 8.5
H&N Baracuda 10.65.

None group at 55.
Any suggestions will be appreciated

 

[XSUltimate]

Did it ever shoot well for you? Is it new to you? I would suggest checking the crown. If new to you, it may just be a bad barrel and you should return it.
Thx
Dan

 

[Skip-in-WV]

Yes, I got it new. Have to check the warranty.

 

[ba49]

Maybe clean the barrel. My Brocock Bantam likes the barrel cleaned after a couple of hundred pellets down the pipe.

 

[Denster]

If you are getting good groups at 25yds but things open up at 55yds then it is not a gun problem it is a pellet or shooter problem.

 

[John "spysir" Blount]

If you are getting good groups at 25yds but things open up at 55yds then it is not a gun problem it is a pellet or shooter problem.

Not necessarily.

Way back when I had one LW machined for a build. 10 yards true 1 hole group, 25 yards darn fine groups, 55 yards OH MY. Certainly no point trying further at all.
Pushed a couple of pellets down the tube and the choke was SO tight. Pellets rather than showing rifling had deep deep grooves on the pushed the head of pushed pellets leaving odd lead shavings in the pellet. Took off two inches (just worked out) off and while not a "golden barrel" and got 1/2" at 50. Just the air grabbing the fins the barrel created. Only had one ever like that myself but many FT shooters say the rifling cut TOO deeply into pellets darn sure will creat issue that might well not show at very close range.

John

 

[spinj]

Yes, I got it new. Have to check the warranty.

If you did not clean the barrel after unboxing it, sir: clean the barrel REALLY GOOD! Manufacturers coat their barrels with a thick, stubborn protectant to prevent the steel from rusting during shipping (as they have long adventures crossing the salty seas to their destinations). I always scrub my new guns' barrels really good with a bronze brush dipped in solvent and then finish off by running patches dipped with store-bought isopropyl alcohol (this is so that I hit at the point of aim on the first shot, or if not at the first shot, a couple after). Don't believe all that nonsense about bronze brushes damaging your barrel. I have been doing this for all my Lothar Walther and CZ barrels--actually after a good polish to remove all the burrs from the manufacturing process that can catch lead from pellets--and right after they will shoot the testicles off flies at 35 yards.

 

[Denster]

Just a suggestion you might want to try some under 8gr pellets and see how your 50yd groups do. It could be with the heavy pellets velocity drops off and the pellets destabalize somewhat.

 

[Skip-in-WV]

How do you clean the barrel. The breech opening is narrow and the brass on my bore snake to too long. I don't know how much I can shorten it without the brass coming off the bore snake leader.

 

[spinj]

How do you clean the barrel. The breech opening is narrow and the brass on my bore snake to too long. I don't know how much I can shorten it without the brass coming off the bore snake leader.

Use a cleaning rod and just insert from the muzzle end if doing so is not possible from the breech end. Just do so carefully until the bronze brush just enters the muzzle and give it about 20 strokes forward and backwards while the brush is dipped in solvent like Hoppe's bore cleaner or whichever you prefer. After those passes, run two patches to clean out the gunk, then repeat with brush for 20 more strokes or more then wipe the gunk with clean patches again. Finish off with a couple of patches dipped in rubbing alcohol.

These are what I use. The cleaning rod is carbon fiber and made by Tipton and twists to follow the barrel's rifling. I also use it to determine the twist rate of my barrels:

 

[AirNGasman]

Considering my .22 Bantam Hi Lite possibly the last airgun I'd give up, I also purchased one in .177 that acted like your's. No amount of monkeying or various ammos would produce sub-1" groups at 50 yards. However I solved the problem by converting it to a pistol that consistently averaged sub-3/4" groups at fifty.

I also bought a .22 Bantam Sniper XR brand-new that wouldn't shoot like it should, even after bore polishing. Scoping the bore revealed the LW barrel not only had cavities in the rifling (like those in my teeth), but poor machining in the chamber and transfer port. A (warranty) replacement barrel solved the problem.

Nevertheless, I recently butchered that Sniper into a pistol/carbine convertible that lost no accuracy to its previous rifle self. Yes, both conversions entailed chopping the choke off those LW barrels!

I've done the same with several other less-expensive airgun barrels with similarly gratifying results.

BTW, it's not true that groups that open up exponentially at distance isn't a gun problem. While it certainly CAN be an ammo or shooter problem, it also can be a gun problem. How do I know that? Although I'm an excellent pistol shot, not so much so that I'D shoot that .177 Bantam pistol better than the same rifle. That was a gun problem.