Tuning Brocock Bantam Sniper HR Regulator Repair Attempt

**Caveat - I am not a pro, nor an airgun smith. I am simply an airgunner trying to learn to maintain and take better care of his airguns. If something proves too difficult I think it’s best to defer to professionals.**

Tools used: 

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I started by degassing my Bantam Sniper HR with the degassing tool that came with my gun coupled with a ratchet and socket. I used a ½” socket, but I believe this is a metric nut on the degassing tool. It want too tight so the degassing tool wasn’t stressed enough to strip.
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After inserting the two prongs on the degassing tool into the holes in the fill port, I began turning it counterclockwise. It wasn’t not snugged down tight and was easy to turn. I made gradual turns until I could hear air begin to escape. From there I stopped turning until the sound of the escaping air got softer. From there I turned it a little more until the pressure of escaping air increased and I stopped to allow the pressure to drop as before. I continued this process until the reservoir was empty.
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Once the reservoir was empty I unscrewed and removed the fill port with my fingers.

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I don’t like how this o-ring looks on the fill port. I think this is supposed to be an o-ring. The rubber looks worn. I should probably replace it. Anyone know what size o-ring this is below the threads? Or is it even an o-ring?
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I noticed a little pressure on the regulator gauge so I dry fired the rifle into a new DIY pellet trap I’m putting together. Then I took a pair of ultra fine precision tip tweezer pliers and inserted the tips into the two holes on the regulator surface.
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I used the pliers to twist the regulator counterclockwise out of the bottom of the breech block.

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Once the regulator was removed I began to inspect the external o-rings before removing them. Next I used the blunt end of a brass cleaning pick to gently remove the o-rings.

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The o-rings looked ok, but I noticed a groove scratched into the regulator body beneath one of the o-rings. I’d suspected this might have been the issue for sometime and discussed it with the last airgun smith that worked on it. I opted to send it elsewhere or attempt to repair the issue myself. Below is a picture of the marred regulator body. To my understanding this type of groove can cause high pressure air to leak past the o-ring causing regulator creep.

So I’m wondering if this mark/groove on the regulator body is the sole reason behind a slow leak around an o-ring. Can anyone provide any input? If it is from problematic marring on the body, can it be repaired? What’s the remedy?

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edited to add more photos and steps by request. 
 
If the scratch is only to the bottom of the groove, it is not a problem. If the side of the groove is scratched, that’s when it can cause a leak...though in that case, only if it is the low pressure side of the groove.

Repair can be done by gently filing down any raised burr, then apply an enamel or lacquer to the offending area. It will fill the imperfection and self-level to give the O-ring a suitably good surface to seal against.
 
If the scratch is only to the bottom of the groove, it is not a problem. If the side of the groove is scratched, that’s when it can cause a leak...though in that case, only if it is the low pressure side of the groove.

Repair can be done by gently filing down any raised burr, then apply an enamel or lacquer to the offending area. It will fill the imperfection and self-level to give the O-ring a suitably good surface to seal against.

What sort of medium is best to use to even out this surface? What sort of lacquer is sufficient for this application? I don’t want to ruin a reg that still functions. I also haven’t removed the snap ring to inspect the internals. 
 
A needle file, aka rat tail file. Can be a conventional type or diamond type. Just needs to be small enough to get into the groove and fine enough to remove material slowly.

For the filler, my preference is a standard clear furniture lacquer. Not too thick and not too thin...viscosity closer to cooking oil than honey. Fingernail polish will also work if it's not too thick.
 
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A needle file, aka rat tail file. Can be a conventional type or diamond type. Just needs to be small enough to get into the groove and fine enough to remove material slowly.

For the filler, my preference is a standard clear furniture lacquer. Not too thick and not too thin...viscosity closer to cooking oil than honey. Fingernail polish will also work if it's not too thick.

@nervoustrig I thought sandcloth would have been another option. Would using sandcloth not be wise due to the residual grit? I have a hobby file set, but I’m not sure about using a file from it on the reg body. They seem too wide. Do you think one of these would be sufficient or is what you’re referring to something smaller/finer?

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I say go with whichever one you are most comfortable. Given a small file in one hand and abrasive cloth in the other, my preference would be the file but that’s just me. My reasoning is that it is easier to just knock down the high spots and keep the surrounding surfaces flat and orthogonal. Whether using a file or an abrasive, I have to clean the parts afterwards so that aspect does not play a big factor in my decision.

I have some files that look like the ones pictured and I think they would work fine. With that said, one of the most reached-for tools in my shop is an assortment of flat diamond files. The multiple sizes and grits cover all kinds of tasks really well, including dressing an O-ring groove. My set is about 10 years old and gets used several times a week. I don’t recall where I got them but this set on Amazon appears to be a match:

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Coated-Needle-Deburing-Jewelry/dp/B07G2KWCM4

Whatever you use, don’t attempt to file out the scratch entirely unless it is very shallow. Just get rid of any raised burr and let the lacquer or enamel fill the scratch.
 
Just noticed this question...

Anyone know what size o-ring this is below the threads? Or is it even an o-ring?

That looks like a bonded sealing washer, also known as a dowty seal. It is a metal washer with a captive rubber seal on its inside diameter. 

Some examples in the following links. Not necessarily the size or ratings you would need as a replacement for your Bantam, just trying to put you on track with the right search terms. It definitely looks like it needs replacing.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3240
https://www.mcmaster.com/dowty-washers/
 
Just noticed this question...

Anyone know what size o-ring this is below the threads? Or is it even an o-ring?

That looks like a bonded sealing washer, also known as a dowty seal. It is a metal washer with a captive rubber seal on its inside diameter. 

Some examples in the following links. Not necessarily the size or ratings you would need as a replacement for your Bantam, just trying to put you on track with the right search terms. It definitely looks like it needs replacing.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3240
https://www.mcmaster.com/dowty-washers/

yes, it's a standard 1/8" bsp Dowty washer on the Bantam.
 
I still haven’t smoothed out the groove on the regulator body. I want to get into the internals. I’m recording the disassembly so I can review my steps in the event I forget what I did in the process. If I’m using the wrong terms for parts of the regulator please correct me. 

I used a pair of snap-ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the top of the reg. 
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Next I turned over the reg and tried to remove the piston regulator adjustment screw with a flathead screwdriver. What I learned is that that the regulator adjustment screw will only turn (back out) so many times before it stops. What stops it is the allen head screw at the bottom of the photo at the end of the arrow.

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To remove the allen-head screw I used a 2mm Allen wrench.

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Next I used a stubby flathead screwdriver to unscrew the regulator adjustment screw. 
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Turn regulator adjustment screw counterclockwise until I backed it out far enough to grab.
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Here’s the regulator adjustment screw after removing it.

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At this point I’m stuck because I don’t know how to get to the bellville spring stack, piston, and delrin seat. Anyone know how to remove this brass piece with the hole in the center?
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**Please excuse the photo quality of some of these pictures. Some are screenshots taken from the video.**

I found a bag of machined screws. I’m not too sure that they are M3 screws, but this one fit enough to grab some threads after about 2-3 rotations. 
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Next I was able to remove the piston from regulator body by applying pressure and pulling. Unfortunately I pulled it out before I began recording and a bellville washer flew out. I’m not sure if I replaced it correctly so I’ll have to reference a Huma-Air diagram I saw with the correct arrangement.


Below is a photo of how it looks after freeing the piston and pulling it out of the regulator body. 
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Now the task is removing these small o-rings from around the piston. They fit tight and take a little more effort to get a pick beneath them without scraping the piston or damaging the o-ring. I was able to so do with my brass pick set. 

 
If you are having reg creep. You need to replace the white delrin disc. It sit between the piston and the adjustment screw. It is what shut off the pressure when it reach the desire pressure. You can either try to polish the white disc on both side to make it seal better, or can contact huma and order new one.

As for the Bellville washers, they need to be stack in a certain way. Contact huma to get a idea how they are suppose to stack. It will still work if you stack it wrong just the pressure will change by stacking it differently.
 
I bagged up and labeled the parts for the old reg, reduced the power on the new reg by turning the adjustment screw clockwise, lubed the outer o-rings with silicone grease, carefully dropped the reg in, and tightened it down to where it was snug using fine needle-nose pliers. I hope I didn’t adjust the reg adjustment screw down too far. It don’t think it bottomed out. I didn’t turn it down until it couldn’t turn any more. However, after gassing it up to around 70% capacity the reg only reads about 25 bar. 
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Does it sounds as if I messed something up or do y’all think it’s safe to externally increase the regulator setting from here until I get it to where I want it?
 
After receiving no response to the question in the above post I posed the querían in another forum. Here’s that thread. https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/question-about-installing-new-regulator/?referrer=1


As a result I installed the new replacement regulator and adjusted it around 135-140 bar. I also changed the dowty seal around the fill port. A simple fix that I learned about and discussed here: https://www.airgunnation.com/topic/brocock-bantam-sniper-hr-fill-port-dowty-seal-size/?referrer=1

I’m about to go out and test my Brocock Bantam Sniper HR now. This gun hasn’t been fired in months. The old reg parts are bagged up and labeled. I will attempt to complete a rebuild another time. 
 
Got her back up and running. Gotta break the chronograph out another day. I’ll likely have to do a little more tuning/adjusting. I’m sure it’s not quite balanced the way that I’d like. It’s very windy today. I’m honestly just grateful to have my Bantam Sniper HR back in action.
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From 50 yards out standing behind the tripod
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I shot 40 shots from a 210 bar fill. After 30 shots I was around 135-140 on the reservoir manometer. Reg was set to about 130. I shot a mag and when I finished What’s pictured in the photo is the result.

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My conclusion is that shooting this gun down off the reg with this OEM Brocock Bantam Sniper HR (mp) Huma-Air regulator messes up the regulator. What exactly is occurring inside the reg I do not know. But this appears to be the root of the problem with these regulators. Now I have to figure out what’s going on. I anticipate after filling the reservoir that the regulator manometer will increase and match the reservoir’s fill capacity. As I shoot the pressure down the regulator will like drop with the regulator pressure. I could be wrong. I’ll know more after filling, shooting, and discussing the issue with others. This has been the established pattern. Learn from my errors and don’t screw up your regulators.