Stoeger Bullshark XM1 safety

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JaceSpace1369

JaceSpace1369

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Aug 8, 2021
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I just received this XM1 today and it feels pretty good to shoulder despite my doubts when I first saw it's release. I briught down the trigger to 1lb- 1.5lbs with a proper second stage, but I cannot manage to get the safety to work no matter what. I did manage to get the safety to work once but it also prevented the gun from firing at all, I haven't been able to find a middle ground and I haven't seen any info on this anywhere.

Any help would be very much appreciated.

Jean-Claude
 
My P35 is I’d guess around 3-3.5. It has no play. I got lucky is came good enough for hunting and plinking.

My Bullshark was someone else’s project gun and came in pieces. It’s under a 2lb trigger. Thankfully the safety works properly, I don’t often need one for my shooting, but obviously it’s important to have a fully functioning rifle.
 
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Florida_Man said:
My P35 is I’d guess around 3-3.5. It has no play. I got lucky is came good enough for hunting and plinking.

My Bullshark was someone else’s project gun and came in pieces. It’s under a 2lb trigger. Thankfully the safety works properly, I don’t often need one for my shooting, but obviously it’s important to have a fully functioning rifle.
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Given that I lend my guns and do guides I need to ensure my guns all have proper safeties. The gun came to me with about a 3lb trigger but the safety still didn't work so idk lol.
 
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I think the first thing to do on the trigger of the P35 and Bullshark is to relax the spring that controls the first stage of the trigger. It looks a bit like the spring from a ballpoint pen and there is a collar with a very small grub screw on the end of it. It is on the long rod that transfers motion from the trigger back to the action block at the rear of the gun. You have to pull the stock to see it (2 screws from the bottom). With it set to about the minimum my triggers dropped to 1 lb or a little over. Relaxing the spring decreases the pull weight of both the first and second stages of the trigger. No added risk of accidental discharge. The other thing I've done has risk but I reduce the sear engagement to reduce the second stage a bit more. There is a screw with a lock nut on the bottom of the action block and that is the sear adjustment screw. Turning it clockwise reduces sear engagement. But if you do this BE CAREFUL. You can make the trigger really light but if you do the gun may go off on it's own. I like a little less engagement but not a super light trigger. I am still around 14 ounces. You probably need more sear engagement if your hammer spring is set heavier. My 177 has a much different hammer spring setting and can have a bit lighter trigger and still be safe.

The only time I've had a problem with the safety was early with my P35-25. I decided to get rid of the first stage so I shortened the pull rod - or maybe I lengthened it. You have to pull a tiny C clip to be able to turn the rod to change it's length. I got rid of the first stage but then I had no safety. So I put it back the way it was. If this is your issue you can look at the trigger area of the gun and see the safety button not lined up with the hole through the trigger block. If you see that you need to adjust the trigger pull rod until the safety can slide back and forth in the hole. If you loose that little C clip PM me with your address and I'll send you a few. I've got a bag of about 100 and have only used 1 or 2. They are too tiny for me to be messing with but I've done it.
 
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JimD said:
I think the first thing to do on the trigger of the P35 and Bullshark is to relax the spring that controls the first stage of the trigger. It looks a bit like the spring from a ballpoint pen and there is a collar with a very small grub screw on the end of it. It is on the long rod that transfers motion from the trigger back to the action block at the rear of the gun. You have to pull the stock to see it (2 screws from the bottom). With it set to about the minimum my triggers dropped to 1 lb or a little over. Relaxing the spring decreases the pull weight of both the first and second stages of the trigger. No added risk of accidental discharge. The other thing I've done has risk but I reduce the sear engagement to reduce the second stage a bit more. There is a screw with a lock nut on the bottom of the action block and that is the sear adjustment screw. Turning it clockwise reduces sear engagement. But if you do this BE CAREFUL. You can make the trigger really light but if you do the gun may go off on it's own. I like a little less engagement but not a super light trigger. I am still around 14 ounces. You probably need more sear engagement if your hammer spring is set heavier. My 177 has a much different hammer spring setting and can have a bit lighter trigger and still be safe.

The only time I've had a problem with the safety was early with my P35-25. I decided to get rid of the first stage so I shortened the pull rod - or maybe I lengthened it. You have to pull a tiny C clip to be able to turn the rod to change it's length. I got rid of the first stage but then I had no safety. So I put it back the way it was. If this is your issue you can look at the trigger area of the gun and see the safety button not lined up with the hole through the trigger block. If you see that you need to adjust the trigger pull rod until the safety can slide back and forth in the hole. If you loose that little C clip PM me with your address and I'll send you a few. I've got a bag of about 100 and have only used 1 or 2. They are too tiny for me to be messing with but I've done it.
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Alright, I will see what I can do given these instructions then. I'm pretty sure I did these steps but maybe I can somehow recover the safety by going back to just a single stage trigger. I will inform once I figure this out.
 
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I tried answering your latest PM but somehow that response disappeared. So I'll try this. I have never done a youtube but I posted a thread, I think it was in October of 2021, explaining how to adjust the P35 trigger. This is a couple of the pictures I think I used. The first picture shows the entire mechanism. It should look just like your gun. I did a little work on one bullshark and it looked just like this. The little spring close to the trigger block is the first stage spring I relaxed a lot to make both the first and second stage lighter. But it is not your issue. It is not clear to me why you report you can slide the safety button from side to side but still pull the trigger when the safety is in the "safe" position. But I still think it may be that the length of the trigger rod is incorrect. The second picture shows the end of that rod where the length can be adjusted. If you remove the little C clip a pin will come out and you can lift the yoke, loosen the lock nut on the rod, and rotate the yoke to change the length. I do not know if it needs to be longer or shorter but I would try going one way a little, like maybe 3 turns and if that does not work turn it the other way twice that amount. My guess is the rod is too long.

P35 trigger rod.jpg


trigger rod closeup.jpg
 
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When you move the safety to safe and pull the trigger is the gun cocked? Do you know you can release the sear by pulling the trigger. I pulled one of mine out and took the stock off and I can move the trigger with the safety on but the sear will not disengage. I'm assuming in the above you can release the sear but it occurred to me it could be just the slop in the trigger mechanism you are experiencing. To do this, I hang onto the cocking handle while pulling the trigger so the gun doesn't actually release any air.
 
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JimD said:
When you move the safety to safe and pull the trigger is the gun cocked? Do you know you can release the sear by pulling the trigger. I pulled one of mine out and took the stock off and I can move the trigger with the safety on but the sear will not disengage. I'm assuming in the above you can release the sear but it occurred to me it could be just the slop in the trigger mechanism you are experiencing. To do this, I hang onto the cocking handle while pulling the trigger so the gun doesn't actually release any air.
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I will send a video once I get the chance later today but yes, I know you can decock the gun by holding the cocking lever and pulling the trigger. But I am engaging the safety and pulling the trigger while keeping my other hand in front of the lever so that it doesn't go off. I have adjusted the rod and all without success but I will make a video. I spoke with the previous owner and he mentioned that this one will not engage the safety if it's set as a 2 stage trigger. Although I found that it doesn't work either way.
 
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JimD said:
I tried answering your latest PM but somehow that response disappeared. So I'll try this. I have never done a youtube but I posted a thread, I think it was in October of 2021, explaining how to adjust the P35 trigger. This is a couple of the pictures I think I used. The first picture shows the entire mechanism. It should look just like your gun. I did a little work on one bullshark and it looked just like this. The little spring close to the trigger block is the first stage spring I relaxed a lot to make both the first and second stage lighter. But it is not your issue. It is not clear to me why you report you can slide the safety button from side to side but still pull the trigger when the safety is in the "safe" position. But I still think it may be that the length of the trigger rod is incorrect. The second picture shows the end of that rod where the length can be adjusted. If you remove the little C clip a pin will come out and you can lift the yoke, loosen the lock nut on the rod, and rotate the yoke to change the length. I do not know if it needs to be longer or shorter but I would try going one way a little, like maybe 3 turns and if that does not work turn it the other way twice that amount. My guess is the rod is too long.

View attachment 492752

View attachment 492753
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Here is the video

 
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I had never noticed that screw until I read your note. I looked on my oldest P35 and it does not have that screw. Then I looked on my P35-22 which is a year newer and it seems to have the screw but it is much more recessed than the position shown in your picture. I tried to turn it but my allen wrench will not reach it. I would have to cut it to turn the screw. I did not do that. It could be your issue, just judging from the position I'm guessing this screw may control trigger motion. I would try recessing it more into the trigger.

I am also attaching two pictures I took of my oldest P35 but I am sure the two newer ones look the same for this. The first will be with the safety on and the second will be with the safety off. The button has to project far enough to engage the trigger guard piece. When you push the safety off it cannot contact that part of the trigger guard housing so the gun can fire.

safety on.jpg


safety off.jpg
 
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Just to be sure I checked my newer P35-22 and it looks exactly the same in the area of the two pictures. If you can get the gun to fire with the safety pin up and engaging the trigger guard housing then I would think again about the linkage length. With the pin engaging the housing the trigger will barely move on mine. That much motion should not allow the sear to disengage. The rod would have to be too short. If the pin will not protrude enough to hit the trigger guard then the screw you discovered would be my first guess.

Sounds like the root of your issues is the previous owner. I about gave myself a major issue on the trigger parts on my older P35-25. I pushed all the pins out of the trigger housing where the sear is and took all the pieces back. I got it back together but I was praying about that one. It just isn't as simple as I thought. But that is not your issue. If it will cock that is OK.

Another thing to be careful about if you ever take the barrel out or the airtube off is the position of the yokes which connect the barrel to the airtube. It's worth measuring the distance of both from the action and write it down somewhere you can find it. If the yokes get mispositioned the gun won't cock.

Let me know how it goes please.
 
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I hope the trigger guard housing has not been modified that way. But I don't see the bump we need in the picture he posted. But they would have had to nicely refinished that piece for it to look like it does in the picture which seems inconsistent with the ham-handed removal of the bump for the safety.

If it is missing, you could possibly get a new housing from SPA but you'd have to go through a dealer and I think they would have to wait for their next gun shipment to show up. Krale says SPA won't ship parts in a separate shipment, only with guns. My other "fix" would be a band aid but it seems possible to drill and tap the trigger guard for a grub screw to act as the stop for the safety.
 
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JimD said:
I had never noticed that screw until I read your note. I looked on my oldest P35 and it does not have that screw. Then I looked on my P35-22 which is a year newer and it seems to have the screw but it is much more recessed than the position shown in your picture. I tried to turn it but my allen wrench will not reach it. I would have to cut it to turn the screw. I did not do that. It could be your issue, just judging from the position I'm guessing this screw may control trigger motion. I would try recessing it more into the trigger.

I am also attaching two pictures I took of my oldest P35 but I am sure the two newer ones look the same for this. The first will be with the safety on and the second will be with the safety off. The button has to project far enough to engage the trigger guard piece. When you push the safety off it cannot contact that part of the trigger guard housing so the gun can fire.

View attachment 493033

View attachment 493034
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On mine the trigger wille still pull back to fire with the safety onel regardless of the length of pull, draw weight, or trigger stage. The only way that I have managed it to not fire what by adjusting the linksge far back enough to where it would be able to fire because the vack of the trigger blade would make contact with the trigger guard.

I will have to see if any of my tools will fit between the trigger and the trigger guard to make an adjustment to that screw. Hopefully that's ticket to solving this issue.
jarmstrong said:
the safety catches the trigger guard for a stop,, looks like someone filed it off,,,:mad: on

JaceSpace1369's gun​

the set screw in the upper part of the trigger blade has a spring and detent ball under it , to adjust tension or resistance of the safety to move, side to side
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Is the spting supposed to be visible from the behind the trigger blade? I got the rifle from someone who got it from somebody else through a trade, It's possible they lost the ball and Spring.But I'm not seeing any markings on the grub screw or the trigger guard.
 
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