Carbon Fiber Bottle Thread Maintenance

[2L8]

Had a friend tell me that his CF bottle threads on the Impact were “galling” after taking it off and on a few dozen times, hard to turn and rough, same putting it back on. The same had happened to me as well.
I mentioned to him that Steve Scialli posted on his “Maverick Tune” video what he recommended for lubing both the O-rings and metal to metal thread contacts. This combo has worked flawlessly for me. Clean and re-apply every so often and life is good.

Here is a basic recap.

Clean the surfaces with the solvent of your choice, I use Hopp’s #9. Dry all the surfaces and threads.

Apply each lube to its intended part. Don’t overdo it. A little goes a long way.

Super Lube Grease is #21030

Super Lube O-ring Grease is #56204

Patrick

 

[rcs9250]

When I worked part time at a dive shop I inspected a couple thousand scuba tanks. We always lightly lubed the O ring and a light coating on the threads primarily to prevent galvanic corrosion but also thread galling.
We used teflon grease but many lubes are acceptable as long as they won’t harm the O ring material.

 

[Gerry52]

Run a wax candle around the threads to get a light coating (or bar soap). Stop short of the last 2 or 3 threads that do the final seal of the bottle. It's worked great for me with no problems. Done it for 30 years.

 

[Patrick1]

I also had wearing on my Maverick. FX does not recommend using greases or oils.
I do NOT believe silicone grease (or really any kind of grease) is a good approach. I’m a a believer in using dry film lubricant like molybdenum disulfide, boron nitride or ptfe types. Not suspended in oily carriers.
The oily carriers will pick up grit and contribute to wear. DFLs won’t.

 

[mtnGhost]

Silicone grease isn't ideal for stainless or aluminum threads. They get nasty and cause premature thread wear in no time.

I have had the absolute best results cleaning and lubing the threads with Slick50 1. I coat the bottle internal o-ring with SuperLube, and then surgically work the threads CCW with a Q-tip soaked in Slick50. Then I take a large cotton bore patch or clean microfiber cloth damped with Slick50 and clean the adapter threads the same way.

The bottles will spin on the adapters like they're brand new thereafter.

 

[2L8]

I also had wearing on my Maverick. FX does not recommend using greases or oils.
I do NOT believe silicone grease (or really any kind of grease) is a good approach. I’m a a believer in using dry film lubricant like molybdenum disulfide, boron nitride or ptfe types. Not suspended in oily carriers.
The oily carriers will pick up grit and contribute to wear. DFLs won’t.

@Patrick1, I will try your recommendation and consider the results. Thanks for your input.

Patrick

 

[Chuck-in-Ohio]

Krytox or Ultimox, just a little dab will do it.

 

[Patrick1]

Krytox or Ultimox, just a little dab will do it.

I’m not as familiar with those products, but ptfe’s (ie.Teflon)are very good “dynamic” lubricants(if something is moving already they can help)……not as good “static” Lubes. I assume Krytox is similar but a poly fluorinated “grease” that could hold onto grit.
When put under significant static pressure, ptfe can actually decrease lubricity.
Perhaps a knowledgeable lubricant engineer can comment……

 

[Patrick1]

@Patrick1, I will try your recommendation and consider the results. Thanks for your input.

Patrick

I experienced rapid degradation of the black anodized aluminum threads from the steel threads rubbing on them. I am theorizing that the anodizing process oxidizes the aluminum into the (much!) harder aluminum oxide grit. When it is abraded off the aluminum threads by the removal of the bottle(under very high pressure), you get pretty extreme wear.

Again, comment from a lubricant engineer would be welcome. Better yet, improved materials of construction would be the best solution.
In any case FX said to take great care when putting bottles onto the adapter.

 

[Patrick1]

Caveat on dry film lubricant is the particle size of the DFL must be quite small or you may clog your regulator

 

[Bigragu]

A little late to this thread, I know. I recently suffered from galled threads and just breaking the bottle loose and turning it CCW till you hear that hiss, was an ordeal. Then, you’d think it would be super easy once the pressure was relieved, but it was still a bear to unthread the bottle completely. I was told I may need a new adapter, bottle valve, or both.

I ended up chasing the threads with a thread chaser and running a tap inside the valve threads, and I did this in two passes, each time wiping down with acetone. The threads on the adapter and bottle looked brand new again. Then I applied a thin coat of moly grease onto the adapters threads and since all that, my bottle installs and removes very easily now.