Carbon Fiber Tank Protection

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I use a Getagrip from Airhog.com ( Great for transport and filling the gun) and a tank boot I order off Amazon (the boots are tank size specific).

I’ve had this setup a year and like it. I got the boot when I realized that my drive shop was leaning the tank upright against a wall to fill it and resting on the carbon fiber tank bottom on the floor. If the tank’s carbon fiber gets a deep scratch, it can be repaired once and anything after that it’s trash. 
 
Hi Orville, I actually came over here to this heading to answer a question similar to yours and discovered your topic. So I will show you and Hollowpoint the idea I came up with to protect my expensive carbon fiber tanks. They are easy to make.

I make covers for my SCBA air tanks for myself and a few friends. I make the covers out of the same neoprene that is used to make suits for scuba divers. I had the idea one day a couple years ago while sitting in a scuba shop waiting for a tank to be filled, and was appalled at the rough handling my tanks were getting. These carbon fiber tanks are really expensive and I wanted to protect mine. The carry handle and anti-roll setup on the small tank in the one picture comes from Best Fittings, U.K., but on the big tanks I use the larger nylon carry handles.
The blue neoprene covering in the pictures is 5mm thick, but some of the others are just 2mm or 3mm thick. Here are a few pics for you to check out...the picture showing four covers - with Hawaiian Hibiscus flowers, Leopard skin, and Red are the ones I made for Ernest to thank him for all his help. And by the way, I covered the cheek rests on my Wildcat with the blue 5mm neoprene to cushion it, and because that black plastic cheek rest gets slippery from my oily sweaty face, and gets red hot in the South Florida summer Sun! The neoprene never feels hot or cold! And yes a couple years ago I even put some of the Leopard pattern on my Wildcat cheekrest, but changed it to the blue neoprene after I painted my Wildcat. Here are a few pics for you to check out...


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 Do you guys recognize that hand?
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These pics show the blue 5mm neoprene on my Wildcat cheek rests. You may also notice that I sanded about 1" off the butt stock and quite a bit off the bottom of the pistol grip, so that with the Atlas bipod legs at a 45 degree angle the bottom of the pistol grip and butt stock sit flush on the table. I did this because otherwise my rifle was too tippy due to being top heavy. Now she sits solid as a rock! The paint is Sherwin-Williams Genesis automotive paint...their version of Imron. You can't scratch or mar it even a little. It is a Chuck proof paint job!

All the best, Chuck
 
Hey Thurmond, I made those for Ernest as a favor for all the help he's given me. And yes that is one of his hands holding a tape measure to show me the circumference of one of his tanks! I wondered if anyone would recognize it... but if you watched as many of his videos as I have they are unmistakable. :) All the best, Chuck
 
I agree back in the 70’s when I use to dive almost every weekend, a friend had a dive shop in Daytona and was careful with my tanks, but over the years when I went to the Keys or out of the area I had to instruct more than one dive shop employee that my life depended on those tanks so handle them with care, you have to speak up. Traveling I wrapped them in old Army blankets.

I like the neoprene. 
 
Hi press,
The color of my Wildcat stock is actually blue gray...and that picture was taken at the Markham Park 100 yard target range located here in Broward County, Florida. This is a powder burner range...I bring my Wildcat & Streamline here to shoot at the 100 yard line, and at paper cups on the hill behind it which is at 121 yards. The park is conveniently located about a mile from my house so I have fun shooting there. One of the really fun things I do there is shoot next to guys shooting a .22 long rifle :) ...I make them wish they were shooting an FX air rifle! I have only one friend that can even come close to my 50 yards groups and that is with his .22 CZ 455. Here are a couple pics of my Streamline at the range shooting at 100 & 121 yards...

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 I have been asked if I make these tank covers for sale...and the answer is no I just make them for friends. I will tell you guys how to make them yourselves though. You can order neoprene from many different sources, but I like to use Seattle Fabrics because they are so nice and so helpful. The lady will tell you over the phone how to access their color/pattern chart on your computer. Once you pick the color or pattern just give her the approximate dimensions of the size you need and she will sell you the correct piece.http://www.seattlefabrics.com/

Next you need to measure the circumference of your air tank and then subtract one inch. By subtracting one inch from the circumference you will end up with a cover that fits very snugly. You will find that neoprene will stretch quite a lot. Then you measure the length you want...I like to measure from the very bottom of the tank to the "shoulder" of the tank at the top just where it begins to slope down to the valve. So then, you should have a piece of neoprene in the shape of a rectangle that is one inch less than the circumference of your tank, and the length you prefer. Make sure you order a piece big enough to make the circular bottom piece as well.

To make the seam I use the Weldwood Contact Cement...https://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Weldwood-3-fl-oz-Original-Contact-Cement-00107/100195615 The secret is to apply it to both edges to be joined together and let it dry for about 10 minutes...then apply a second coat and let it dry for about 5 minutes. I apply the contact cement with a q-tip or a toothpick. Practice this on a piece of scrap a couple times to figure out how to do it, because once you press those two edges together they are going to instantly weld themselves together and you won't be able to pull them apart without ripping the neoprene.

To make the bottom piece I divide the circumference of the new neoprene cylinder by 3.14 which gives me the diameter. I divide the diameter by 2 to find the radius...I use this number to make a circle with a compass on a piece of cardboard or manila folder. I cut out the circle of cardboard with scissors and use it as a template to trace around with a Sharpie marker onto a piece of neoprene. Once you cut it out it is easy to glue it to the end of the cylinder you made. But once again, I recommend you practice this with some scrap material first to get the hang of it.

Or you can eliminate the bottom piece altogether by just making a cylindrical cover and adding a scuba tank boot to the bottom of your tank. It is hard to find scuba tank boots that will fit on a carbon fiber tank...so I bought one from Best Fittings U.K. that was about a 1/4" too small, and put it in a pot of boiling water for a few minutes afterwhich I shoved my big tank into it for a perfect fit when it cooled. Fits tighter than Dick's hatband!

Neoprene is difficult to cut...the thicker it is the harder it is to cut. I have used 5mm, 4mm, 3mm, and 2mm. The best way I have found to cut it is to use a metal straight edge clamped down on the neoprene on a glass top patio table, with a snap blade knife to cut it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-18-mm-Metal-Body-Snap-Off-Knife-DWHT10038/202710464 It is best to make several passes to make your cut, instead of trying to force it. The blade will dull in one or two passes and have to be snapped off to expose a new sharp point. 

Here is where to get a tank handle: https://www.amazon.com/Innovative-Heavy-Velcro-Webbing-Carrier/dp/B003JPHKLK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_bs_tr_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=K34XSDSHSCPQTMXSVBCC
And here are the anti-roll feet: https://www.ebay.com/i/371895443377?chn=ps&dispctrl=1

I drilled a hole in each of the white roll control feet so that I could use a piece of all thread rod with nuts to keep them from wanting to flip over, and I also attached a piece of neoprene to the bottom of each one to cushion it and make it non-slip. I also attached a piece of neoprene to the half moon tank cradles to cushion the tank and make it non slip also. Here are a couple pics showing the bottom piece of a tank cover, a tank boot, and the roll control feet attached together with all thread rod and 1/2' nuts.This is the best way I could think of to protect my expensive carbon fiber tanks, and it is a great way to personalize your tanks too.Have fun making your own tank covers guys! 
All the best, Chuck


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You are most welcome brother! And I agree with you...that plastic netting does nothing to protect these grossly expensive tanks against damage, it only keeps steel or aluminum scuba tanks from making a big noise when they bang together.

And you guys may not know this, but any DOT regulated fill station is required by law to destroy your carbon fiber tank if the epoxy finish is damaged to the point where the carbon fiber is exposed. They have no way of knowing if you are an undercover DOT guy there to test them on this...if they do not follow the law they can lose their certification to fill tanks. So they will cut your tank in half on a bandsaw or drill holes in it and hand it back to you...they will be very sorry for having done so, but they will do it because they are required by law to do so. DOT are fairly unforgiving when it comes to someone filling a damaged tank, not to mention the guy doing it doesn't want to be anywhere near a pressure failure.

When I first started out with a carbon fiber tank and saw how the guys at the scuba shop were banging it around as if it was steel or aluminum I thought of protecting my tank...I walked over to a rack of scuba suits and thought hmmmmmm this stuff would work great. My first thought was to buy an old damaged scuba suit somewhere and cut one of the legs off and stretch it over my SCBA tank! :)

All the best, Chuck