CF Tanks and Tank Valves or regulators discussion.

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skygear

skygear

Member
Jun 9, 2015
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https://www.facebook.com/djmotomike/, United State
Been searching around and am unable to find just what I am looking for in the way of Tank Valves or a regulator.

In the paintball industry, it was common to purchase a new, better featured valve/ regulator for the tank. You would empty the tank and unscrew the old valve, then screw in another of your choice.

Doubt much has changed. Where are the various valves for purchase?

My ideal valve would be.
Tank pressure
line pressure
foster fill port
bleed valve
burst disk

Something along those lines. I like to look at my tanks with the valves closed to know the pressure.

Can people post pics or links to what type of Valves they ate using and where to get them?

Or if there is a preferred rank valve for our hobby
 
Have you tried a internet search?? I got my setup from Airtanksforsale. You can check the site sponsors online stores. You can find a wealth of information just digging on this site. Also the yellow forum is good. If you are going to charge a pcp gun with a cf setup I suggest you get a micro bore hose to save air when you bleed down line pressure after filling your gun. Some adapt Fire Dept. turn ins etc.........

I posted this in response, on this site, to a fellow with a high fill pressure, high end gun.

I have a 25 Marauder with a 3000 psi fill pressure and have 1500 psi to play with before I start getting partial fills. I think the wildcat fills to about the max on the tank you speak of. If you get a 3500 tank you will go to partial fills after the first fill and that is if you can get the shop to fill to 3500. The problem is all tanks heat up when filled and loose some pressure when they cool down so you might not even get one complete fill. Other issue is steel tanks are HEAVY as in 40 to 50 pounds. Most carbon tanks run 15 to maybe 20 pounds and just look cool. Get one with a clear finish where you can see the fibers. If you get one with a slow flow valve you can sneak up on your fill pressure and not heat up the tank on the gun. You should be able to look up what the regulator on the wildcat is set at. I would shoot down to that pressure then refill. You will know when you are off the regulator when your velocity drops off and point of impact begins to drop. Before you buy a cf tank be sure to find someone who can fill to 4500. Best yet is to have a buddy at the Fire Dept. who can get your tank filled. Other than price the only downside to cf tanks is they have a 15 year life span then its time for a new tank. You should be able to use you old valve but it might be a good idea to buy a new fill hose at that time.Do yourself a favor. Spend the extra $200-$300 for a nice cf tank with a long micro bore fill hose.

I would take the time to educate myself as to what is available and what you need for your gun before you buy. You can very easily spend $600 - $700 on a nice setup.
 
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THANKS GUYS. Yes, I have searched. There is always an overload of info and sometimes a bit too much @ 2am when I finally decided to call it quits. Looked at both of their sites and again, didn't really see what I was in search of. Might be that my expectations are not what and where they should be. 

So the experts are where you directed me Craig?
 
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First off this is not the paint ball industry. All of the features you listed except the burst disc (but why would you need one ?) are in the valves of the tanks that airtanksforsale.com has. (I think Airhog tanks are similarly equipped). I have one so I know. I'm sure Joe would sell you a valve/gauge set up separately if you have a tank that needs a new valve. Most 4,500 psi carbon fiber tanks come with a valve and gauge set up designed for airgun use. Not usually any need to mix and match parts. Anyway welcome and good luck.
 
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i know this isn't the paintball industry. Just was using it as a reference since you could get your tank filled at a shop or field using their compressor. They too use the 4500psi bottles. 


People pick up SCBA tanks and can change the valves on them. As it sits now, my SCBA tank reads the internal pressure at all times. I noticed that it is the INVERSE on airgun tanks. It reads the pressure after the valve is on. Unless I am mistaken. I had seen a dual valve setup when I was in AZ at a range. Fellow didn't seem very social so I didn't bother asking. 

Features I wanted were for the monitoring of line pressure, internal tank pressure, bleed valve to release the line pressure, male foster on the valve to fill the tank from a quick connect foster fitting. 

AOA has the OMEGA tanks with the features I was looking for, just didn't see the valve only for sale. I'll contact them in the AM too. They are getting more of my money anyways for the BOBCAT possibly the IMPACT>
 
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As I look at the closeup of your gauge set-up, I am concerned about the plumbers tape for the seal. I have used this on many fittings connecting pipe and gas lines. When using plumber's tape, the tape will fragment and may pass to your gun, which could foul up your valves. If you have ever taken apart a fitting with plumbers tape you can attest that the tape usually disintegrates. When I had to repair my gauge (my fault) on my Air Hog tank, they used a paste that sealed the fitting to avoid this problem. It may not be an issue but why take the risk. It could be an expensive unnecessary repair.

Air Hog is one of the first companies to introduced the carbon fiber tanks to this sport. To keep down costs they provide a "Dead Head" for free to check tank pressure so you don't have to purchase a second gauge for your tank. They also have introduce a gauge that is not filled with glycerin so no more leaking gauges. I would suggest to go for the upgraded gauge as it is more sturdy. All their fittings are sealed with a paste and not plumbers tape. 

If you or others haven't had any problems with valves, great, I wouldn't change anything, but if you are looking for a new set-up or gauges, I would go with the company that uses a past to seal your fittings and not plumbers tape..
 
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Don't remember but I will ask Van Jacobi (previous owner) this weekend when I see him. I don't think it is a "special order" item. He told me that when they eliminated the plumber's tape from set-ups he had no more issues with plugged valves. I will post the name of the product as soon as I find out.

You can certainly call Air Hog and ask them what the product is that they use instead of plumbers tape if you need this information sooner. Their site is listed previously on this thread. Obviously if you are not having problems I would leave things alone. This hobby is about the details, it just makes sense to eliminate any possible problem if you can. 
 
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Loctite 5452 Fast Cure Thread Sealant 
Top Pick Loctite® 5452™ Fast Cure Thread Sealant contains no fillers or particles that could contaminate system fluids, foul valves, or clog fine filters and screens. Designed for hydraulic / pneumatic fittings.

I use that stuff. On all of my fittings. I redo all of them myself and do not trust most of the plumbers tape. It was originally designed to be used as a thread LUBRICANT! Not a sealant....

http://www.henkelna.com/adhesives/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797961158657


 
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NMshooter, first off, the tape was done by Joe as I have never done anything but fill these tanks. Secondly, I have never had the issue you describe happen in regards to the tape getting into the gun. But, thanks for the heads up. I have tuned and modded many guns and used tape many times. I have never used any type of pipe dope because the stuff I have contains chemicals I would not want to get inside the airtube!! Tape is safe, you should check the msds before using any liquid or paste type sealant. Remember hpa and most chemicals don't play well together!!
 
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