CGA347 valve

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mamny956 said:
So to fill tank I would just hook the hose end into the compressor to fill the tank with air?
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Yep. That is, for your existing valve. Some valves vave a seperate fill port but not the case for your valve in your picture. Some compressors might have a specific order on when you open the tank valve. Check with your compressors operating instructions.
 
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rcs9250 said:
Yep. That is, for your existing valve. Some valves vave a seperate fill port but not the case for your valve in your picture. Some compressors might have a specific order on when you open the tank valve. Check with your compressors operating instructions.
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Ok, cool deal.

I just don't know anything about anything,lol.
Thanks a lot to all for answering my questions
 
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mamny956 said:
Ok, cool deal.

I just don't know anything about anything,lol.
Thanks a lot to all for answering my questions
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Since this is your first foray into PCPs and compressors, let me throw this out there... this is a VERY DANGEROUS undertaking!! The pressures we are dealing with, 3000-4500psi/206-310bar are equivalent to small bombs. A dropped tank, a weakened valve, a hose or fitting rupture can all have lethal effects.

Lots of reading can help, but if anyone you know does PCP or compressor-filling of tanks, I would recommend you hang out with them and learn. Otherwise, take your time, and learn from here and YouTube. Best of luck!
 
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Agree with others, you don't need a new valve assembly, just the fitting to adapt the fill line, which can also be used to then fill the guns. Also good to have a gauge as well. You can upgrade to a regulated valve system if you choose, but I never have. Regs add some complexity but are arguably safer when it comes to preventing the accidental overfilling of a gun. Foster fittings are best for connectivity in the airgun world. Link below to an assembly from Brancato that I use in addition to other similar ones.

FWIW, the Scott valve handles are by far the worst to use, IMO. They have a slip clutch installed that tries to prevent the operator from accidentally closing the valve in operation. Great for firefighters as designed, but not great for airgunners trying to control the flow. So perhaps look at replacing that handle or simply removing the slip clutch. I just replaced the handle with a $5 faucet wheel from Amazon (1/4" square hole for mating). MSA valve handles are much better and are what I have on all but one of my SCBAs.

https://www.topgun-airguns.com/product/scba-hose-assembly/
 
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F6Hawk said:
Since this is your first foray into PCPs and compressors, let me throw this out there... this is a VERY DANGEROUS undertaking!! The pressures we are dealing with, 3000-4500psi/206-310bar are equivalent to small bombs. A dropped tank, a weakened valve, a hose or fitting rupture can all have lethal effects.

Lots of reading can help, but if anyone you know does PCP or compressor-filling of tanks, I would recommend you hang out with them and learn. Otherwise, take your time, and learn from here and YouTube. Best of luck!
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Defiantly will be very careful and do my due diligence.

Thanks for the heads up man
 
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Spartan said:
Agree with others, you don't need a new valve assembly, just the fitting to adapt the fill line, which can also be used to then fill the guns. Also good to have a gauge as well. You can upgrade to a regulated valve system if you choose, but I never have. Regs add some complexity but are arguably safer when it comes to preventing the accidental overfilling of a gun. Foster fittings are best for connectivity in the airgun world. Link below to an assembly from Brancato that I use in addition to other similar ones.

FWIW, the Scott valve handles are by far the worst to use, IMO. They have a slip clutch installed that tries to prevent the operator from accidentally closing the valve in operation. Great for firefighters as designed, but not great for airgunners trying to control the flow. So perhaps look at replacing that handle or simply removing the slip clutch. I just replaced the handle with a $5 faucet wheel from Amazon (1/4" square hole for mating). MSA valve handles are much better and are what I have on all but one of my SCBAs.

https://www.topgun-airguns.com/product/scba-hose-assembly/
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I will look into the product you link. Thank so much
 
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Spartan said:
Agree with others, you don't need a new valve assembly, just the fitting to adapt the fill line, which can also be used to then fill the guns. Also good to have a gauge as well. You can upgrade to a regulated valve system if you choose, but I never have. Regs add some complexity but are arguably safer when it comes to preventing the accidental overfilling of a gun. Foster fittings are best for connectivity in the airgun world. Link below to an assembly from Brancato that I use in addition to other similar ones.

FWIW, the Scott valve handles are by far the worst to use, IMO. They have a slip clutch installed that tries to prevent the operator from accidentally closing the valve in operation. Great for firefighters as designed, but not great for airgunners trying to control the flow. So perhaps look at replacing that handle or simply removing the slip clutch. I just replaced the handle with a $5 faucet wheel from Amazon (1/4" square hole for mating). MSA valve handles are much better and are what I have on all but one of my SCBAs.

https://www.topgun-airguns.com/product/scba-hose-assembly/
Click to expand...
That’s a nice set up.
 
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FYI, the Scott valves have a center nut. It can be tightened down and it eliminates that safety feature making the valve more airgun friendlier. Gives more control. But the other type has a ratchet type device that must be held back to shut off. I have the latter on one bottle. So I use it very carefully. I’ll be changing that one when I’ve used it down and completely discharge it.
 
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Grassguy12200 said:
FYI, the Scott valves have a center nut. It can be tightened down and it eliminates that safety feature making the valve more airgun friendlier. Gives more control. But the other type has a ratchet type device that must be held back to shut off. I have the latter on one bottle. So I use it very carefully. I’ll be changing that one when I’ve used it down and completely discharge it.
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Based on the picture I shared of my valve can you tell which valve I got?
 
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mamny956 said:
Based on the picture I shared of my valve can you tell which valve I got?
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Yes sir, that Scott tank valve knob has a nut it the middle. it tension a spring. If you tighten the nut, it will override the spring allowing you to turn the valve with more precision. ESP when closing it. Ive tightened all of mine and they work great. It’s nice to just be able to close it without pushing in to close it.
 
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