Check out the L-tech retracting probe by Kraford & Lypt

Firstly, I can't fault anyone for theorizing as our efforts have been in production instead of marketing/videos and whatnot.
BUT to address the value proposition let's make sure we are taking in all factors. If you are a person that only cares about 1 arbitrary thing, maybe this isn't for you.

In no particular order:
1. it comes with a more robust KLS-3. So there's $250-377 depending on version. Also take into account it is a more robust kls-3 as it is properly integrated with the rifle and is more stable.
2. comes with a bag rider. Depending on what company you're going with that's $50 or so. Comes with one out of the box.
3. Pin probes and carved out pellet probes are not good for every projectile. For example you cannot seat a pellet as deep with a pin probe as you can with a pellet probe, you cant seat a slug with a boat tail as deep as with a pin probe. This isn't absolute, but the geometry of the back of the projectile matters when selecting your probe. The flat surface of the L-tech probe can consistently seat any geometry. You also have the ability to custom shape the profile of the tip to match exactly with the projectile insuring a skirt isn't disformed while sliding through the mag.
4. full retraction of the probe opens up for more air flow. With 22 cal we are seeing 20-35fps increases. This allows you to either shoot faster, or conserve air by turning down hammers or reg pressures. DONT MAKE YOUR RIFLE WORK HARDER THAN IT NEEDS TO.
5. More reliability over pin probes. I bend mine all the time. Especially during competitions when it is critical. It is impossible to bend the L-tech probe with how thick it is.

I'm not going to relist everything stated on the product page, so insert that here...

When taking into account the KLS-3, L-tech comes out to be about $200.
Unfortunately the Impact's rear is not really designed to receive an L-tech probe without replacing the 2 side plates. It can be done with the oem side plates, BUT it isn't optimal thus we went with doing it the right way.

Here are some pictures of the probe carrier, notice the box way guide.

View attachment 326625View attachment 326626


In conclusion, it is getting hard to take some of these arguments seriously when there doesn't seem to be too much push back for something like a $250 backbone that yields negligible accuracy gains; but heaven forbid a complex - original - mechanism that can increase FPS and consistency comes out... Quick everyone figure out ways to justify why they don't want to see innovative products come out that actually do something!

I sincerely apologize this product can't be 3d printed or that it wasn't farmed out to some random oversees shop and or that we are enforcing IP.
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I want to know the structure of this, how does it work? If the bullet has not moved into the correct position but is stuck or obstructed by something, will the probe pull back?
 
I want to know the structure of this, how does it work? If the bullet has not moved into the correct position but is stuck or obstructed by something, will the probe pull back?
I'm not 100% sure if I understand the question properly, but it is a mechanical trip, so as long as you are able to cock your rifle and close the lever, the probe will snap back. If the projectile is stuck or say you jammed in a few rounds and it you cannot close the lever, it will not snap back. But at that point you shouldn't shoot it anyways.
 
I'm not 100% sure if I understand the question properly, but it is a mechanical trip, so as long as you are able to cock your rifle and close the lever, the probe will snap back. If the projectile is stuck or say you jammed in a few rounds and it you cannot close the lever, it will not snap back. But at that point you shouldn't shoot it anyways.
If I put it on my hand and use my hand force, will I be able to push it back? I mean after the spring has been compressed, if I push in the direction of the arrow with my hand, will the probe snap back?

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If I put it on my hand and use my hand force, will I be able to push it back? I mean after the spring has been compressed, if I push in the direction of the arrow with my hand, will the probe snap back?

View attachment 335169
There is a mechanical mechanism inside the probe carrier preventing it from going backwards until the projectile is properly seated.
 
In conclusion, it is getting hard to take some of these arguments seriously when there doesn't seem to be too much push back for something like a $250 backbone that yields negligible accuracy gains; but heaven forbid a complex - original - mechanism that can increase FPS and consistency comes out... Quick everyone figure out ways to justify why they don't want to see innovative products come out that actually do something!

I sincerely apologize this product can't be 3d printed or that it wasn't farmed out to some random oversees shop and or that we are enforcing IP.
NOT the attitude to display when bringing a new product to market... Jus' Sayin' you are talking to your CUSTOMERS here, mate.
 
He earned my respect because he didn’t bring a bag of sugar to the conversation. Didn’t throw knives at anything except 3D printed stuff. Which we all know is barely adequate stuff. I was originally only after one thing for one gun. When he made me realize, in my case because I’m a KLS off and on guy, that the whole thing might be appealing. So far so good even though my wallet got a standing 8 count because I bought two of them.
 
He earned my respect because he didn’t bring a bag of sugar to the conversation. Didn’t throw knives at anything except 3D printed stuff. Which we all know is barely adequate stuff. I was originally only after one thing for one gun. When he made me realize, in my case because I’m a KLS off and on guy, that the whole thing might be appealing. So far so good even though my wallet got a standing 8 count because I bought two of them.
Fair enough. I saw it a bit differently. It seemed to me that he was lecturing his customers. That's going to put people off. It is better that he figures that out now than later.

Regarding 3d printed stuff, or any other form of manufacture for that matter, it is just like any other process. Sometimes it is suitable to the task and sometimes it is not. A smart engineer figures that out before he ever walks away from his drawing board. I'm not going to regale you with stories about how difficult it can be to do precision work on an FDM printer, but you aren't going to build that part with one.

Also there is nothing wrong with dropping the price of a good spring rifle on a "dodad" if it needs to be built with that kind of precision, unless you can accomplish the same result at the price of a tin of pellets. I don't see that happening in this case.

Never the less, if you want people to drop that kind of money on a part, you would be wise to make them feel like you really care about what they think. Getting snippy will cost him money.
 
One thing I’ve experienced that owners need to pay attention to is this screw. Mine keep working loose. I put some Vibra-tite on the one last night. Hopefully this will solve the problem.

View attachment 335684

We're going back and forth about red or blue loctite. I'm leaning towards red but I was hoping to make it easier to swap out calibers.
When you tighten it down, make sure to use vise grips on the front to get a good amount of torque. The probe shaft is 303 so you can crank on it.

Getting into the weeds here but I'm going to experiment with a special Emuge tap that looks promising for a mechanical lock.
We got a sample tap from them but they accidentally sent the wrong M4 pitch and we ended up going with a standard tap on it.
The other idea is a retaining ring. which would eliminate the need for a screw.
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While the current design works, if we get something more robust in the future we will swap them out with everyone.
 
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We're going back and forth about red or blue loctite. I'm leaning towards red but I was hoping to make it easier to swap out calibers.
When you tighten it down, make sure to use vise grips on the front to get a good amount of torque. The probe shaft is 303 so you can crank on it.

Getting into the weeds here but I'm going to experiment with a special Emuge tap that looks promising for a mechanical lock.
We got a sample tap from them but they accidentally sent the wrong M4 pitch and we ended up going with a standard tap on it.
The other idea is a retaining ring. which would eliminate the need for a screw.
View attachment 335716
While the current design works, if we get something more robust in the future we will swap them out with everyone Disassemble all the details, I'm sure someone out there will give you some good advice.
We're going back and forth about red or blue loctite. I'm leaning towards red but I was hoping to make it easier to swap out calibers.
When you tighten it down, make sure to use vise grips on the front to get a good amount of torque. The probe shaft is 303 so you can crank on it.

Getting into the weeds here but I'm going to experiment with a special Emuge tap that looks promising for a mechanical lock.
We got a sample tap from them but they accidentally sent the wrong M4 pitch and we ended up going with a standard tap on it.
The other idea is a retaining ring. which would eliminate the need for a screw.
View attachment 335716
While the current design works, if we get something more robust in the future we will swap them out with everyone.
Disassemble all the details. I'm sure someone here will give you good advice.
 
Vibra-tite is probably the best chemical solution to this. Red loc-tite on anything airgun related is just too scary because it requires heat to disassemble. I just grabbed the probe with soft jaw pliers and snugged the screw with the Vibra on it up. A good many shots today and it’s holding fine. Which brings me to something else. When I stated I had a zero increase in speed with my .22 Compact with the same settings as my fixed probe, that statement was true. But through some testing today, what did change was my peak speed for that reg setting. It went up considerably. Which in turn had my gun acting nutty the more I shot it. Now I’m working on finding the accuracy I once had but at a significantly lower reg setting. Not the end of the world I promise you. But it’s a complete retune with little bullets.
 
Vibra-tite is probably the best chemical solution to this. Red loc-tite on anything airgun related is just too scary because it requires heat to disassemble. I just grabbed the probe with soft jaw pliers and snugged the screw with the Vibra on it up. A good many shots today and it’s holding fine. Which brings me to something else. When I stated I had a zero increase in speed with my .22 Compact with the same settings as my fixed probe, that statement was true. But through some testing today, what did change was my peak speed for that reg setting. It went up considerably. Which in turn had my gun acting nutty the more I shot it. Now I’m working on finding the accuracy I once had but at a significantly lower reg setting. Not the end of the world I promise you. But it’s a complete retune with little bullets.
Exactly how many fps did it increase?
 
Vibra-tite is probably the best chemical solution to this. Red loc-tite on anything airgun related is just too scary because it requires heat to disassemble. I just grabbed the probe with soft jaw pliers and snugged the screw with the Vibra on it up. A good many shots today and it’s holding fine. Which brings me to something else. When I stated I had a zero increase in speed with my .22 Compact with the same settings as my fixed probe, that statement was true. But through some testing today, what did change was my peak speed for that reg setting. It went up considerably. Which in turn had my gun acting nutty the more I shot it. Now I’m working on finding the accuracy I once had but at a significantly lower reg setting. Not the end of the world I promise you. But it’s a complete retune with little bullets.
I'll test the vibra tite out.
Are you running 2 regulators or just 1? You'll probably be able to get the deviation down by lowering the reg a bit (higher shot count too), but I've found just running the second regulator gets me to a 5fps spread.