Check out the L-tech retracting probe by Kraford & Lypt

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Spider92 said:
Exactly how many fps did it increase?
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I didn’t write it down but it was significant enough that I immediately recognized that my peak speed was so far above what it used to be that I was going to have to do a full retune. That gun likes to shoot its bullet in a certain speed range and it was now way too hot. Off the top of my head it was at least 30fps faster before I quit clicking and started formatting a new plan.
 
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KrafordAndLypt said:
I'll test the vibra tite out.
Are you running 2 regulators or just 1? You'll probably be able to get the deviation down by lowering the reg a bit (higher shot count too), but I've found just running the second regulator gets me to a 5fps spread.
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I never had a deviation problem until now but only with this gun. The .25 is good. I made progress today and the gun will sit for at least 16 hours then I’ll test again. I’m using both regs.
 
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Got mine today and installed it. However I'm having an adjustment problem. I have it set so that in the cocked position the probe protrudes slightly past the face of the plate. Any further and I can't insert the mag. However it's not quite far enough to release the probe when pushed forward. Another 1/4 mm would do it (I can jiggle it and get it to release). I don't see any way to get the probe to move any further forward.

One solution I see would be to press the release pin further back into the face plate. Or some other way to extend it towards the probe carrier.

@KrafordAndLypt any thoughts?
 
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I gave @KrafordAndLypt a call today to get some help with the install and adjustment, and Steven (Stephen?) was incredibly helpful. There's a somewhat hidden adjustment that was the magic for me. There's a set screw right here. It allows you to adjust the depth of a wedge (hidden by his thumb) that triggers the release of the probe when the cocking lever is closed. All I had to do was move it about 0.5 mm further into the housing (closer to the probe holder) and now it releases very reliably.

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He also gave me a few install tips:

1) Loosely assemble the main frame and tighten the backbone screws first. This will help with overall alignment of the system.

2) On the opposite side of the probe holder in the picture is another set screw. It is an internal guide for the sear mechanism. It is designed to never be moved after adjustment. If you do break it loose (maybe cause you don't know what it's for....), then to readjust it, apply some kind of threadlocker, screw it in until it seats LIGHTLY, then back it off 1/4 turn. Let it cure there.

As far as performance after install... I did not see a notable speed increase. However I was able to back off my hammer spring 2 macro notches and retain the same speed. Mine is in .22 in a 700mm heavy liner. I had it tuned shooting 33gr .218 slugs at ~995 fps @ 155 bar. I have the internal parts of the slug power kit installed as well. After install it was shooting about ~1000-1005 fps, and it stayed there after I backed down the hammer adjustment. I wanna call it 4 micro clicks below 3.5. Pretty sure I could get a bit more out of it and tune the valve a bit, but I'm really happy for now with just minor adjustments.
 
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zer0dev said:
As far as performance after install... I did not see a notable speed increase. However I was able to back off my hammer spring 2 macro notches and retain the same speed. Mine is in .22 in a 700mm heavy liner. I had it tuned shooting 33gr .218 slugs at ~995 fps @ 155 bar. I have the internal parts of the slug power kit installed as well. After install it was shooting about ~1000-1005 fps, and it stayed there after I backed down the hammer adjustment. I wanna call it 4 micro clicks below 3.5. Pretty sure I could get a bit more out of it and tune the valve a bit, but I'm really happy for now with just minor adjustments.
Click to expand...

Nice,
If your previous tune and barrel was getting upto it's max velocity with the PSI already, then you will see the ability to drop the reg or hammer significantly. If you want more velocity, you'll have to increase to 160/170 and possibly a heavier hammer to get more out of the 700.
But making your rifle work less hard on the hammer is a significant reliability increase too. That 1000-950fps range is pretty good from what I've seen with .22 32/33 gr slugs.
 
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Well curiosity got the best of me with my .25. I just had to check to see if the ceiling speed of my reg setting went up. It did by 25fps. I sensed it because even though the gun shot good, it felt/sounded different. Now that I know how far the gun was shut down using my old settings with the L-tech, it’s time to back the reg down and try to find bliss again without having the gun so choked off. I may try a warp speed tune before I back the reg down because that’s what I was originally after.
 
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I would say with the L-tech, if you’re not looking for more speed, you’re going to have to back your reg down about 20 bar +or- to stay where you were before installing it. Another thing that happens is it broadens how you can approach the speed your gun likes if you already know what that speed is. That’s where I’m at right now. I know the velocity both of my guns like. I’m just testing different settings at those speeds to see what’s the most accurate and more importantly the most consistently accurate.
 
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Scotaty said:
Are you going guys planning to release lite version without other accessories, just the prob with just lite side plates.
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Your two questions were what I was originally after and hoping for also. They would have to design new side plates for it and offset slightly to the rear to accept a stock butt pad. Is it worth it from a business standpoint? I guess it depends how much cheaper it would be. I’m glad he swayed me on the concept that it has everything in one package. If I never occasionally used a KLS, I may have held out for a basic model too.
 
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Just install L-Tech on my M3... with a minor mod...
On the sliding surfaces, I applied some UHWM tape!
UHWM has the same low friction Quality of Teflon... But much more durable.
It has a very strong Acrylic adhesive to attached to the surface of your choosing.
20230309_123005.jpg


I used .005" on the floor of the sliding channel for the Probe.
.003" on the side of the Probe Carrier Body..
20230309_122851.jpg


Then I added a small strip to the other side, on the small anti-lift protrusion.
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The cocking motion is now Silky Smooth!
BTW... This UHWM tape is pretty Incredible...
It was suggested smooth out the action of my 10/22 I built...
The tape I applied to the receiver internal surface where the bolt slide on.
Well the tape is still attached after about 5000 rds..... just wipe the carbon and powder residue off.....
 
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Scotaty said:
Are you going guys planning to release lite version without other accessories, just the prob with just lite side plates.
Click to expand...
We've thought about it. The original prototype was even able to drop in with the OEM plates, but for reasons of consistency and reliability, decided to just redo the back.
 
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KrafordAndLypt said:
Nice! I'll have to try this out as well.
I'd maybe even put a strip or two on the side walls (top or bottom where there is no cutout on the side plate).
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Well like any engineer.... I like discussing different approaches to problem...
So I shot my M3 some..... it performed Flawlessly...
But I decided to remove the a tape on the "Sides" of the Probe carrier.
I applied a narrow strip of UHWM on each of the side walls!!!
20230324_140303.jpg

But I also applied a thin strip to the top side of the protrusion on the Probe Carrier!
20230324_140734.jpg

Working the action, I silky smooth... No hint of metal to metal rubbing!!!!

FYI, the acylic adhesive they use on the UHWM tape is nothing to Sneeze at!
I had to use a blade to lift an end to remove existing tape on the Carrier..
As I tried to remove the tape... it stretched and broke a couple of times.
Alse it left some of the adhesive behind!
But a Little bit of Acetone cleaned it up!!

Loving this probe system....... When will the caliber change kits and cheek-rest going to be released??
 
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Ca_Varminter said:
Well like any engineer.... I like discussing different approaches to problem...
So I shot my M3 some..... it performed Flawlessly...
But I decided to remove the a tape on the "Sides" of the Probe carrier.
I applied a narrow strip of UHWM on each of the side walls!!!
Click to expand...
Yes, I think just on the side walls of the plates makes more sense, even though there is an edge break, putting it on the probe carrier might cause it to bunch up as it rubs the cutouts.

Ca_Varminter said:
Loving this probe system....... When will the caliber change kits and cheek-rest going to be released??
Click to expand...
Which calibers are you looking for?
At the moment we are shipping them out upon request and I can get one going for you if you shoot me an email. [email protected]
 
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