Just bought a .177 Crosman cheap springer. Accuracy is not to good. Didn't expect it to shoot like my HW97 but about 3"at 30 yards is a little much. Pushed several different brands of pellets, 4.50 to 4.53, thru barrel. All pellets kind of fall down barrel with very light to no resistance and no noticeable choke. Anyone successful found a way to choke an airgun barrel? Thanks, Don
Crosman Choking an cheap airgun barrel?
- Thread starter doninva
- Start date
Return it. Buy something better.
You can remove material from a barrel but I haven’t heard of anyone adding. If the pellets are not snug at the breech and holding there you won’t be getting full power.
You can remove material from a barrel but I haven’t heard of anyone adding. If the pellets are not snug at the breech and holding there you won’t be getting full power.
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You can't return airguns to Walmart. You don't need to add steel to choke a barrel. You compress a barrel at the end to choke it. Just need a method as l don't have access to a hydraulic press. Thanks, Don
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That sounds like a quixk way to warp the barrel unless you drop more than what you paid for the barrel to fix it.
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Beat around the muzzle with a ball peen hammer? ( maybe roll and tap evenly)
Maybe could use a prestolite touch cheap at Walmart to heat it then beat it...
Maybe 2ed post here on the 2 steel block clamping thing ..
www.snipershide.com
Maybe could use a prestolite touch cheap at Walmart to heat it then beat it...
Maybe 2ed post here on the 2 steel block clamping thing ..
Gunsmithing - Choking the muzzle bore on a rimfire barrel?
I've been machining barrel blanks for a few years now with pretty solid results. Mainly rimfire and lately airgun slug barrels, but I have been wanting to experiment more with adding choked muzzles on some of the barrels that I suspect would shoot much tighter groups if the last inch and change...
www.snipershide.com Upvote 0
Thanks, that how l thought it could be done. I could bore a hole in a piece of steel, the od of the barrel, on my lathe. Cut it down the center, which would make some relief to squeeze the barrel. Now l need to find a way to compress the blocks. You should only need about .005 to get a choke. DonBeat around the muzzle with a ball peen hammer? ( maybe roll and tap evenly)
Maybe could use a prestolite touch cheap at Walmart to heat it then beat it...
Maybe 2ed post here on the 2 steel block clamping thing ..
Gunsmithing - Choking the muzzle bore on a rimfire barrel?
I've been machining barrel blanks for a few years now with pretty solid results. Mainly rimfire and lately airgun slug barrels, but I have been wanting to experiment more with adding choked muzzles on some of the barrels that I suspect would shoot much tighter groups if the last inch and change...
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Really don't want to return a 90.00 airgun. I have the trigger about like a record trigger. I have other airguns, just want to see if l can make this one shoot decent. Just a project gun. Don
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Your thought is correct to.make a block with a hole slightly smaller than the barrel dia. A good hydraulic press will allow you control the amount of squeeze. In the old days the choke was created when the front sight groves were put in. The trick is to keep the bore truely concentric thru the choke, accuracy will go to heck if it is not.
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Good case hardened bolts. Or maybe grade 8 bolts. Thread one block and then crank down the blocks
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I saw a post where a guy used a pipe cutter (the kind that rotates around the pipe) with the cutter removed. Think I saw it on the old yellow forum. Never tried it myself.
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I've choked a couple of softer barrels using lathe collets. You mentioned having a lathe. Using a collet is MUCH more controllable for concentricity than the other recommended methods.
Bob
Bob
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Good advice from Bob regarding a collet to apply uniform compression to the OD. The only thing I wanted to comment on was your prior mention of applying perhaps 0.005" of choke. That represents a tremendous amount which is likely to do as much harm to accuracy as a loose bore. Instead I would suggest trying for 0.001" or until you get to a slip fit with a 0.177" or 0.176" gauge pin.
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I like the pipe cutter with cutter removed idea. Could also try something like this pictured below:
Very inexpensive approach that doesn't require much tooling for those without a lathe, as OP does have one, the collet mentioned by Bob is very noteworthy.
-Matt
Climax 1 in. Bore Black Oxide Coated Mild Steel Clamp Collar 2C-100 - The Home Depot
Climax Part 2C-100 Clamping Collar is made from mild steel with black oxide coating for corrosion resistance. Dimensions are 1 in. ID, 1-3/4 in. OD, 1/2 in. Width. It is effective on hard and soft shafts.
www.homedepot.com
Very inexpensive approach that doesn't require much tooling for those without a lathe, as OP does have one, the collet mentioned by Bob is very noteworthy.
-Matt
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I did just read about that, interesting that it works but probably less controlled / precise as going really slow with any of the aforementioned methods. Nice addition nonetheless!
-Matt
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I have choked barrel muzzles by freezing a plastic tub of water to get an ice block, heating the last half inch of muzzle to a dull red (not cherry red) and rolling it on the ice block.
Let it cool, rod a pellet through and, if necessary, repeat until you can feel a choke.
Let it cool, rod a pellet through and, if necessary, repeat until you can feel a choke.
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