Cleaning pcp's
- Thread starter Oakenhawk
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i dont do much with mine, but i dont rattle off tons of 500 tins all the time either ... pretty much i dry patch the barrel until the patch is fairly clear after maybe 10 mags and wipe it down with *metalophilic oil occasionally, good stuff, recommend that for sure and break down any shrouds etc so all the metal gets treated now and then .. and i use a soft hair 'quality' paint brush a couple inches wide to keep them dusted off good ..
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I think most folks around here would recommend the patchworm kits. Check out their website.
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The patchworm kit for a 0.177 bore works very well. Better than I thought possible on this tiny bore. Be very careful not to saturate your cleaning patch, because you do not want cleaning fluid draining into the air pathway to the valve. There are lots of cleaning videos on YouTube to check out.
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Having come from a centerfire BR background, cleanliness was sacred. But with air rifles, assuming a good barrel, they just don't need much cleaning. My suggestion, shoot it and forget about cleaning until accuracy falls off. With some barrels, that will be virtually never. Others may need it every few hundred rounds.
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I usually drink diesel and take a wiZzz down the bore. Works like a charm. Have you ever seen a sewer pipe emptying into the ocean? Bingo
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I use the PatchWorm kit and Ballistol. Do not over saturate your patch as Torqrench mentioned above. Clean the barrel when the accuracy falls off, which in my case is usually the first shot (LOL).
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@HPAman. What caliber is that sewer pipe you are referring to? Careful to not flood your gum.
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Get a cheap bore snake of the proper caliber, remove the brass brush, put a little cleaner of your choice on it and clean away. Couple pulls and it's clean. Cyclops has a video on how to remove the brush. Takes about 20 seconds. If you have two snakes of the same caliber, one to clean, one to dry.
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Bore snake works, but I've quit using it routinely for a couple of reasons. First, it bothers me to clean with a used bore snake, but washing them after each use is kind of a pain, assuming you can get it clean. Also, depending on the specific combination of barrel and snake, the fit can be extremely tight, to the extent of damaging the breech O ring. And if I'm going to remove the breech seal, I'll just take off the barrel and clean it right, using a rod and brush, if the bore is that badly fouled. I've found, with a good barrel, anything more aggressive than a pull-through is rarely needed.
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My BSA Lonestar .25 stays shiny bright when using a pull-thru patch treated with M-Pro 7. Pellets that are lubed and shot below 900 FPS should not cause any lead fouling that affects accuracy, if the bore is smooth. A hammer forged barrel should be smooth with no pitting or machining marks.
My moderator is made from aluminum and my moderator mount is also aluminum, so rusted threads should not be an issue if leaving the moderator on after shooting. However, rifles equipped with a moderator and/or shroud should be stored muzzle down with the bolt open to let any moisture escape downward and not cause rusting in the bore.
I use an oiled pull-thru patch after any shooting session, so rusting of the barrel will never be a concern, and my pellets are lubed with M-Pro 7 as well, which is an excellent corrosion inhibitor.
Also, when replacing the poppet valve on my FX hand pump, I noticed the glass beads were coated with grease, so I removed the grease by rolling them on a paper towel. The glass beads need to be kept clean so that they efficiently do their job of acting as a moisture trap. The more damp your environment, the more you need to keep an eye on that. Since Montana is semi-arid, I haven't seen any moisture issues with my rifle. Relative humidity here is typically 40% or less.
My moderator is made from aluminum and my moderator mount is also aluminum, so rusted threads should not be an issue if leaving the moderator on after shooting. However, rifles equipped with a moderator and/or shroud should be stored muzzle down with the bolt open to let any moisture escape downward and not cause rusting in the bore.
I use an oiled pull-thru patch after any shooting session, so rusting of the barrel will never be a concern, and my pellets are lubed with M-Pro 7 as well, which is an excellent corrosion inhibitor.
Also, when replacing the poppet valve on my FX hand pump, I noticed the glass beads were coated with grease, so I removed the grease by rolling them on a paper towel. The glass beads need to be kept clean so that they efficiently do their job of acting as a moisture trap. The more damp your environment, the more you need to keep an eye on that. Since Montana is semi-arid, I haven't seen any moisture issues with my rifle. Relative humidity here is typically 40% or less.
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