will cleaning pellets harm your rifle in any way,I know that you are not supposed to dry fire an HW30...
cleaning pellets
- Thread starter rusty51
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Load a lighter pellet behind them and you're good to go. Personally I find them to be a waste of money but to each their own
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I remember someone mentioning that you should remove your moderator when using them bc it may tumble in there and get stuck.
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You really dont have to clean your barrel all that often. You can usually go thousands of pellets before accuracy starts to drop off. I usually just pull a patch or two through my guns when I'm bored. I do make sure to wipe the metal down with baillistol and a microfiber cloth after every use though. If you plan on storing the gun for a long while pulling an oily patch through the barrel will prevent it from rusting. Just clean it out when you break it out of storage.
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Waste of money. IF they did a good job EVERYONE here would probably use them. The vast majority do not. (Based upon the many posts about this from the past)
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Cleaning pellets are absolutely worthless. Triple them up and shoot them at the cat for fun. JK. Almost. They don't do crap. I can't believe they're still sold.
Use a pull through or push through patch soaked in goo gone or hopees nine before first use. Start at the breech end. If it's an older rifle with the possibility of Crosman use, brush it out with a bronze brush. Hard lead doesn't patch out easily.
If you avoid Crosman you'll never have to clean the barrel again. If you use Crosman pellets you'll have to sweep out their harder lead deposits every few thousand rounds. Actual cleaning intervals are dependant on the individual barrel. Not a big deal but I'd rather not have to clean the barrel.
Use a pull through or push through patch soaked in goo gone or hopees nine before first use. Start at the breech end. If it's an older rifle with the possibility of Crosman use, brush it out with a bronze brush. Hard lead doesn't patch out easily.
If you avoid Crosman you'll never have to clean the barrel again. If you use Crosman pellets you'll have to sweep out their harder lead deposits every few thousand rounds. Actual cleaning intervals are dependant on the individual barrel. Not a big deal but I'd rather not have to clean the barrel.
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Just ordered the patch worm direct from their website. Was cheaper than Amazon, AOA and Pyramid air when you added the shipping. Please don't post if you got it cheaper. Makes me bang my head on the desk.
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The need to clean is highly dependent on velocity. Low-powered spring guns don't lead their bores, so can go on almost forever (if clean running), but fast guns definitely do. And we're not talking about 1000 fps here, just around 870 fps will do. Neither is this only a Crosman problem, although they are the worst.
An over-leaded bore messes up accuracy, in a JSB-shooting HW97 or TX200, too. With fast guns, it only takes around 1 000 pellets, give or take. Cleaning the bore then (and re-leading) will shrink your groups to 1/3 of the previous size.
I mostly pull patches, either dry or soaked in either oil or solvent. But I also use cleaning pellets when needed. You can't pull patches on many older guns, such as my BSF S54 Match. There, I load two or three cleaning pellets and a lead pellet and shoot.
These cleaning pellets were shot through the BSF. You can't tell me cleaning pellets do nothing.
An over-leaded bore messes up accuracy, in a JSB-shooting HW97 or TX200, too. With fast guns, it only takes around 1 000 pellets, give or take. Cleaning the bore then (and re-leading) will shrink your groups to 1/3 of the previous size.
I mostly pull patches, either dry or soaked in either oil or solvent. But I also use cleaning pellets when needed. You can't pull patches on many older guns, such as my BSF S54 Match. There, I load two or three cleaning pellets and a lead pellet and shoot.
These cleaning pellets were shot through the BSF. You can't tell me cleaning pellets do nothing.
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Because they came out dirty doesn't mean they are effective. Of course they are going to come out dirty. It's a dirty environment. There always loose lead dust and oil residue.
If a bore is truly lead fouled. The lead cakes in the rifling. It might take a hundred dry patches to remove the fouling if ever at all. Badly leaded barrel need to be brushed out with solvent or patched with tight patch loaded with cleaning compound.
The regularity of maintenance varies from barrel to barrel. Some barrel are rougher finished and will lead up quicker.
I haven't brushed out my HW95 since 2018 so there's easily ten or twenty thousand shots through it. It shoots 8.44 JSBs at 900fps so by your standards it should be ready for a cleaning. Next week when I get home to Arkansas I will shoot before and after cleaning targets and will see what happens. Maybe I'm wrong and will have to change my tune. This will be interesting.
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Just a heads up, the dark stuff that comes out is graphite which is benign. Lead will appear as shimmering flakes...if patches don't have these flakes, either the approach is ineffective or the barrel is already clean.
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Not contradicting your statement, just curious. Where does the black come from when shooting pellets that appear to have no graphite on them? CPHPs for example are shiny lead, some H&Ns are dark black, others a lighter shade of gray, and JSBs are slightly more gray than CPHPs but not much. I get black residue from all of them.
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Ya, my luck go right to the shop and spend the day digging it out stuck 1/2 way in the barrel . Lol
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I think even the ones that appear fairly clean have some trace amount of graphite. But if it isn't graphite, neither is it lead because there is no naturally-occurring lead compound having a dark brown or black color.
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I don't think anybody said cleaning pellets do nothing. They're overpriced and unnecessary is all. You can use a q-tip in a .177 barrel being pushed by a pellet for the same results at 1/10 the cost.
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Lead darkens to almost black as it oxidizes. As it oxidizes more it becomes soft and almost slimy on the surface. Past that it sometimes develops a white crumbly crust. Lead in fresh clean form isn't easily absorbed by humans and not that dangerous. The more oxidized the lead the more dangerous it is to humans.
I used to cast a lot of lead and lead alloy fishing lures.
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The typical oxide (lead oxide) that develops in normal atmospheric conditions is a mix of dull gray with white powder.
The only two lead compounds I'm aware of that become black or almost black are lead sulphide and lead dioxide. Neither of these occur in normal atmospheric conditions to any meaningful extent...e.g. at the rate a bore darkens from shooting lead pellets.
The former, lead sulphide, is apparently difficult to produce even with deliberate effort.
www.chemicalforums.com/index.php?topic=63514.0
The latter, lead dioxide, also must be synthesized and the compound itself is a very strong oxidizer that will burn skin.
Lead dioxide - Wikipedia
Am I missing a potential explanation for how lead itself produces dirty black patches?
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Heres what tom gaylord says in his pa blogThe typical oxide (lead oxide) that develops in normal atmospheric conditions is a mix of dull gray with white powder.
The only two lead compounds I'm aware of that become black or almost black are lead sulphide and lead dioxide. Neither of these occur in normal atmospheric conditions to any meaningful extent...e.g. at the rate a bore darkens from shooting lead pellets.
The former, lead sulphide, is apparently difficult to produce even with deliberate effort.
www.chemicalforums.com/index.php?topic=63514.0
The latter, lead dioxide, also must be synthesized and the compound itself is a very strong oxidizer that will burn skin.
Lead dioxide - Wikipedia
en.wikipedia.org
Am I missing a potential explanation for how lead itself produces dirty black patches?
"The black stuff JW mentions seeing on his felt cleaning pellets is the graphite anti-oxidant coating found on some pellets so they don’t turn into white dust in six months. It does not harm the gun, and it keeps getting removed and redeposited as you continue to shoot."
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