You can probably find one of these at your local hardware store.
In the future I'll just toss one in each package.
In the future I'll just toss one in each package.
"Clocking" Problems with a moderator?
- Thread starter OldSpook
- Start date
I've been in the habit of keeping a small o-ring at the base of the Male 1/2×20 threads that moderator screws onto. Keeps everything perfectly in line and keeps mod from loosening up. Same concept?
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So off and on we have been kicking around ideas about how to ensure that a moderator which needs to be oriented rotationally with the gun could be "clocked" into position. For example a moderator with a logo on it; the user would want it to be oriented with the lettering upright. There is no easy way to ensure that the helicoil/tap has cut the threads correctly for every gun. A rubber flat washer serves to allow the shooter to adjust the tightness of the moderator while keeping the moderator properly TRUE to the bore. That lets him "clock" the moderator to the rifle.
We have also kicked around the idea of shims which allow tuning of the placement of the first baffle cone WRT the muzzle (to aid in stripping the muzzle blast from the projectile) and/or leaving the insert unglued so that the shooter can glue it up upon installation.
Unless you are asking about Tom's comment WRT to accuracy changes due to placement of that first baffle cone? In that case we have tested repeatedly the placement of the first baffle cone relative to the muzzle of the rifle and every time shown that accuracy CAN be improved with correct spacing of the first baffle cone. Every gun is different, but there are some generalizations which seem to hold true. Testing with strippers can help you develop the idea further if you are of a mind to do that. I personally believe there is a constant which can approximate the spacing of that first cone in the muzzle blast to improve accuracy.
I also like the idea of a rubber flat washer because it seals the barrel to moderator connection where the testers have observed problems with moderation when that seal is not perfect.
HTH
Mike
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Thanks, always nice to learn fresh ideas and concepts. WMSo off and on we have been kicking around ideas about how to ensure that a moderator which needs to be oriented rotationally with the gun could be "clocked" into position. For example a moderator with a logo on it; the user would want it to be oriented with the lettering upright. There is no easy way to ensure that the helicoil/tap has cut the threads correctly for every gun. A rubber flat washer serves to allow the shooter to adjust the tightness of the moderator while keeping the moderator properly TRUE to the bore. That lets him "clock" the moderator to the rifle.
We have also kicked around the idea of shims which allow tuning of the placement of the first baffle cone WRT the muzzle (to aid in stripping the muzzle blast from the projectile) and/or leaving the insert unglued so that the shooter can glue it up upon installation.
Unless you are asking about Tom's comment WRT to accuracy changes due to placement of that first baffle cone? In that case we have tested repeatedly the placement of the first baffle cone relative to the muzzle of the rifle and every time shown that accuracy CAN be improved with correct spacing of the first baffle cone. Every gun is different, but there are some generalizations which seem to hold true. Testing with strippers can help you develop the idea further if you are of a mind to do that. I personally believe there is a constant which can approximate the spacing of that first cone in the muzzle blast to improve accuracy.
HTH
Mike
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Here's my "moderator" dilemma. JTS Airacuda Max .25 with "warped" shroud causes pellet clipping within the shroud and with attached moderators, even .30 ones. DonnyFL produced $50 one-piece metal adapter, which replaces 6-part (air stripper/ baffles/stack bolt) assembly and shroud end cap, to positively lock barrel end to shroud end. Phenomenal accuracy now without moderator. Problem is gun is very loud since DonnyFL adapter has no sound suppression. Have tried STO Pugio and Falx (both .30 High Flow), DonnyFL FX in .30 and .25 and BuckRail .25, all cause extreme POI shifts. Used 3/8 drill to Pugio internals, reduced POI shift to inches, unfortunately a "shotgun" pattern. Took 1/2-inch drill to Pugio internals and used leftover M14 end cap (1/2-inch opening) to replace exit cap, accuracy improved while sound is lessened, but still not ideal in either category. Believe exit air turbulence is root cause of problem. WM
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@WorriedMan diy a new shroud. Amazon makes getting CF tube in whatever diameter you need pretty easy. A few 3d printed bits and you are in business. If lacking a 3d printer, it's not that hard to cobble a solution together.
Only time I've had a moderator impact accuracy, something was dreadfully wrong.
This is the new shroud I just finished for my AGT Vixen Long in .177. It's about 60mm longer than stock. It is dramatically more quiet.
Only time I've had a moderator impact accuracy, something was dreadfully wrong.
This is the new shroud I just finished for my AGT Vixen Long in .177. It's about 60mm longer than stock. It is dramatically more quiet.
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Don't think that's for me, just like making my own slugs isn't. Admire folks who do, easier for me to just purchase. After writing previous post, I realized that if DonnyFL's adapter replaced the OEM air stripper, what in the current setup is redirecting or "stripping" that air away now? Think I need to research external air strippers and if a moderator can still be used. WM
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