So my hatsan light compressor is leaking from this fitting. I have taken it apart and polish it and put it back as tight as I can but still leaking. This is the only part it is leaking from and I can not stop the leak no matter what. What is these steel pipe fitting call? I notice they have no o rings and only metal to metal. So I'm guessing they seal by fraction or compression? Since hatsan have discontinued this compressor they don't have parts for it anymore and I can't find it online. Anyone know where I can get this L shape tube fitting?
Compressor leaking. Need help with this fitting.
- Thread starter Airmanator
- Start date
I used 2 adjustment wrench. I make sure the cone shape went into the hole and seat, then tighten it down to the point it will round off the hex nut if I try anymore. It is as tight as I possibly can without stripping it. I check the fittings and they look normal, no scratches or marks on the cone shape so don't know why it's not sealing. I'm guessing the fitting is bad. But can't find replacement since hatsan discontinue it long time ago.
Upvote 0
Here's a longshot. Appears similar to stainless steel fittings on Yong Heng which can be tricky to re-seal, without replacement, after removal. In my case, while waiting for new SS line replacement to arrive, I placed a rice grain size of JB Weld around steel line, under fitting, and retightened. After curing, my "temporary" repair is still holding solid. WM
Upvote 0
I believe it started leaking after I removed it so I can take the gold filter out to clean. Cause it didn't leak b4. After I cleaned the gold filter I install it back and put all the fitting together. Then turn on compressor to check for leaks and that is when I notice hissing noise from that fitting. I think they are same type off ss fitting use on the Yong heng, the only difference is yong heng doesn't use these long L shape so it's hard to find replacement.
Upvote 0
Same as me, try JB Weld idea, not trying to seal threads, just where compression fitting sits on steel line. Suspect compression fitting isn't sealing properly to steel line. Make sure to allow curing time. WM
Upvote 0
Compression fittings are comprised of 3 parts, the tubing to be sealed, the ferrule (small piece that slips over tubing & under nut) & the nut. The ferrule is what deforms & creates the seal. IF you can slide the ferrule off it can be replaced but usually difficult. I've repaired mine in the past 3 different ways. 1.wrapped Teflon tape around ferrule (gas tape), 2. Dab of JB Weld on ferrule (a la Worried Man) & 3. Replaced whole tubing, ferrule, nut assembly. #3 is correct way (& not expensive) I tried to remove ferrule with a Dremel & cutting wheel but went THROUGH it & put a slice in tubing & no longer trusted it to hold pressure.
Upvote 0
You might try simply using a non-volatile, non-oil base, paste such as 'Formula 8'. I have used this on medical gases and oxygen piping to meet hospital cleanliness standards.
You would apply it to the threads AND the cone shaped ferrule while in it's paste form. It will eventually dry to a cakey form and that will not seal the fitting correctly.
mike
You would apply it to the threads AND the cone shaped ferrule while in it's paste form. It will eventually dry to a cakey form and that will not seal the fitting correctly.
mike
Upvote 0
I worked for Swagelok, assembling custom panels for various industries and pressure ratings. When a compression fitting is to be disassembled it was SOP to put a Sharpie match mark on the nut and fitting before loosening the fitting. When re-assembling you tighten slowly till the match marks line up and then tighten it a little bit more. That way you know it is tightened a bit more than the previous connection.
No doubt billions of guys and fittings have been re-assembled successfully without doing the match mark procedure but that’s how we were trained. It minimized leaks after re-assembly. There are of course a limited number of times that you can do that before re-assembly won’t seal.
Also, there were times when there could be a linear scratch on the tube OD that would not seal under the ferrule and will not seal unless the scratch was polished out or the tube replaced.
Another issue you will need to figure out is the tube size ( metric or SAE) most likely metric on a Hatsan. McMaster Carr is a good source for swage type fittings.
Be sure the fitting is rated for at least 5000PSI. Typical plumbing compression fittings will not hold together at airgun compressor pressures.
Carefully research the thread system utilized on your compressor.
No doubt billions of guys and fittings have been re-assembled successfully without doing the match mark procedure but that’s how we were trained. It minimized leaks after re-assembly. There are of course a limited number of times that you can do that before re-assembly won’t seal.
Also, there were times when there could be a linear scratch on the tube OD that would not seal under the ferrule and will not seal unless the scratch was polished out or the tube replaced.
Another issue you will need to figure out is the tube size ( metric or SAE) most likely metric on a Hatsan. McMaster Carr is a good source for swage type fittings.
Be sure the fitting is rated for at least 5000PSI. Typical plumbing compression fittings will not hold together at airgun compressor pressures.
Carefully research the thread system utilized on your compressor.
Upvote 0
rcs9250
Being a plumber for 50 years, I have used many Swagelok products, they are top notch. While that is per Swagelok SOP, it may not be for Hatsan and whatever fittings they use (although good advice in general).Since the fitting origin is not known, it's likely that the Formula 8 paste might enable the possible 'gaps' to be filled in using it, I believe that is likely the best move to fix without replacement. The paste is also 10K PSI rated, so no issue there.
mike
Upvote 0
I try to remove the ferrule (cone shape) but it's stuck on the ss tube so tight. It won't even budge. Are there tools to remove this thing without cutting the ss tube or cutting the ferrule? I search ferrule remove tool but they only show faucet ferrule removal only. Not ferrule that are use on hpa compressor. I don't want to jb weld it, but I can try Teflon tape since I have some.
Upvote 0
New Yong Heng SS tubing came with all three parts, still sitting unused in parts drawer. Recommend overnight curing for JB Weld. WM
Upvote 0
The verbatim website description of Formula 8 states:
“FORMULA-8 thread sealant is engineered into a shear-sensitive thixotropic paste that wets into and seals threaded joints when torqued. Formula-8 is engineered to seal over the entire thread length”
It is for threads not swage compression surfaces. We would have been fired for using ANY type of sealant on a swage fitting, even the threads on the swage nut and mating part (which, on a swage fitting are not subject to gaseous or fluid pressure). How people abuse the product can be amazing.
If we had leaks, we were required and expected to fix or replace the root cause.
Upvote 0
Here's the high pressure line from my yh compressor. After isolating the tube as the leak I broke it to see the crack. The light color is fresh the dark area the leak. This was right at the top of the ferrule. 
Upvote 0
"How people abuse the product can be amazing."
Nothing stated in my reply indicated abuse. The fitting is from an unknown source and very likely not Swagelok. Had it been Swagelok, then that would have indicated the SOP as you described. I have used Swagelok many times and know the SOP for small and large fittings, the larger at times MAY need light lubrication as a matter of fact depending on the style of fitting.
Your SOP is 100% for your described fittings. Swagelok is a stellar company with solid product lines.
mike
Nothing stated in my reply indicated abuse. The fitting is from an unknown source and very likely not Swagelok. Had it been Swagelok, then that would have indicated the SOP as you described. I have used Swagelok many times and know the SOP for small and large fittings, the larger at times MAY need light lubrication as a matter of fact depending on the style of fitting.
Your SOP is 100% for your described fittings. Swagelok is a stellar company with solid product lines.
mike
Upvote 0
Just remove the entire assembly and replace with proper size M10 or M8 etc fitting with male quick connect on Both the filter and block. Then buy a proper length hose with female quick connects. Future maintenance of filter you only need to remove quick connect.
Upvote 0