Air Arms Conditioning new Air Arms walnut stock?

On the few stocks I have stripped and refinished the stain was in the sealing coat. It darkens the wood but hides a lot of color and detail. It's not the surface appearance that is the problem....you can always shine that up or buff it down. It's the muddy layer of color over the wood and under the top coat.

When you strip the old stain/sealer off and get down to bare wood the character of the wood is much more vivid and whatever finish you use looks better. Unless you really grind off a lot of wood the sealer remains in the very surface and refinishing is easy. You build a finish rapidly and it does not take so many coats.

If you use chemical strippers it often removes the sealer alltogether and the wood needs stain (on the wood and left to set) and then a clear sealer (I like lacquer based sealers) and a good fine sanding. After that you can build a finish rapidly with whatever oil or hard finish you like.

Back in the day we used "paste wood filler" to fill the grain before the stain. You can still get it but it's not on the shelves. If you ask for "paste wood filler" they show you wood dough to fill holes.

I've used deft lacquer based sanding sealer and elbow grease to get the same results on open grained wood and it works pretty good. The "paste wood filler" was quicker and easier but it does not have a very long shelf life and often dries out between refinishing jobs. You wind up ordering a new can every job and wasting most of it. So sanding sealer is how I seal up the pores before finishing.

I saw an old cabinet maker use powdered lac and denatured alcohol to seal and fill on mahogany furniture. His work was RADIANT. The lac bugs are ground up fine into powder and mixed with alcohol to make shellac and spread over the wood like paste wood filler. Then sanded off. I see you can actually buy the powdered lac bugs at the woodworkers supply. I've never used them. I understand this was the method they used to finish violins, guns, and fine woods for centuries. It was used under oils like BLO and provided an excellent base for sealing and finishing.

I suppose a guy could just use shellac instead of starting with powdered bugs. It's the traditional sealer though and I would love to see a stock done this way. I've never used it and opted for lacquer sanding sealer instead. I've seen some very old violins finished in lac and oil and they are stunning. A rifle finished in this traditional way would be really special.
 
Has anyone here vacuum stabilized a walnut stock? Laminates often use stabilized wood but I've always been curious about stabilizing a whole stock.

I've stabilized small carvings with lacquer, catalyzed epoxy, and cactus juice. It all works pretty good. And dying produces some spectacular results.

You can use badly spalted wood, included bark, even checks and voids are no issue to fix. You can stabilize a tortilla and polish it to 4000 grit.

It would be the ultimate finish for a rifle. You could polish scratches out like a corian countertop and never refinish the surface.

All it would take is a bare stock, a 6" piece of PVC well casing, a vacuum pump and and enough cactus juice or epoxy resin to fill the pipe.
 
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here a very unique "Blond" walnut AA TX stock that was much more plain prior to several waxing applications.

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Is that grip tape along the lower edges?

What's the blue tape on the barrel?
Yes, Rubber grip tape along stocks bottom areas and Blue tape along top side of barrel for low scope glare and protecting it from rust opening/closing cocking handle ( salty sweaty hands )
* Set up as a FT rig when picture taken.
 
Below is another example of RLO being applied to bare walnut.. I applied 3 coats to this stock. It really accentuated the grain patterns and wood color differences.

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I see mill marks, From the duplicator. 🤔
block sand that stock Down. 😉

sand them first few oil coats in and fill them pores, then do you will start to get that wood to show its potential.
 
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Just received a new air arms TX 200 in Walnut today. Would like to know what the expert consensus is about conditioning the stock right out of the box? It looks a little dry. Thanks for any help.
Hey Guys,
I know this is going to sound crazy, but when my BSA R10 came years ago with a beautiful Walnut stock ... it was dry and needed conditioning.

I accidentally wiped some gun oil on the stock which looked very good, so I covered the entire stock with regular gun oil - it looked fantastic and sealed the grain. Couldn't be more simple ..... I reapply about every couple years (y) .

BSA R10 - Plain Oil Finish.JPG