Air Arms Conditioning new Air Arms walnut stock?
- Thread starter thevinoman
- Start date
No plastic wrap for mine.
Bedrock Bob, Read my first response again.
It agrees 100% with your requirements of continual maintenance.
It agrees 100% with your requirements of continual maintenance.
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My TX200HC was dry as a bone when first purchased. Despite the naysayers, I treated it with Tru-Oil, and I'm happy with the results.
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Looks nice to me, everyone has their own idea of what looks good, I happen to like a flatter finish on mine. But I see plenty of glossy stocks that look killer.My TX200HC was dry as a bone when first purchased. Despite the naysayers, I treated it with Tru-Oil, and I'm happy with the results.
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You may want to consider treating your stock with Minwax Wood Hardener before applying your finish.
I treated our HW97K beech stock with it, and it made a world of difference. I regret not having treated our ProSport's walnut stock with it. It's acquired a ton of small little dents from normal everyday use. If my health ever improves enough for me to take on another stock refinishing job again, I may strip off the finish I put on the ProSport, iron out all of the dents, and treat it with wood hardener. Then refinish it again.
I treated our HW97K beech stock with it, and it made a world of difference. I regret not having treated our ProSport's walnut stock with it. It's acquired a ton of small little dents from normal everyday use. If my health ever improves enough for me to take on another stock refinishing job again, I may strip off the finish I put on the ProSport, iron out all of the dents, and treat it with wood hardener. Then refinish it again.
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Any opinions on beeswax or Howard's Feed and Wax? I'm going to take some photos today of "before". I actually got both a TX200 MKIII and a Pro Sport from PA. Neither was in a plastic bag. Both simply in the interior box, well done. They do look a bit dry, and as you will see, quite different in color. I'm leaning toward Watco Medium Walnut for the initial application, but still up in the air about the final finish after a few coats of the Watco. Weather sucks here in N. Indiana today unfortunately and for the rest of the week, making it a bit challenging.......Again, I really appreciate all of the discussion and opinions, that's why I came here.
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The more I think about it, the more I think mine wasn't in a plastic bad either..lol. Just laid bare in the box, maybe I was thinking about the Weihrauchs I've opened.
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Here we go. Photos of both the TX and PS straight out of the box. Nothing applied to the stocks yet. Some interesting grain for sure.
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Empty as all AIR ARMS are.
You finish speakers. what look do you want ? Then advice will flow. Just don’t use true oil. Unless you want glossy plastic.
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As in pores…. Take a loop and look at the stocks. They are not filled. There is hidden chatoyance when they are filled and wet sanded in .
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I do like the finish of Tung oil, but the wait for it to dry is very LooooooongI used the 100% tung oil and I like my results. No the pores aren't filled, but I didn't sand it. I did apply several coats over a couple of months, as it takes time in between coats. And it takes time for a complete cure once done. But it did darken the wood from it's dry light colored factory look.
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But look at the results
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Probably would've been better if I had sanded to fill the pores, but It's not bad. And yeah, at least 3 days between coats, longer is better I think.I do like the finish of Tung oil, but the wait for it to dry is very Looooooong
But look at the results
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La Scala's are my favorite. Have had many pairs. The difference between most (vintage) speakers and gun stocks is that most speakers are veneered over Baltic birch or MDF, whereas stocks are solid wood, so, kind of a different animal which I still need to learn a bit about. Wilsons will definitely relax your wallet....that's for sure.Kinda like La Scalla.
I prefer the more Relaxed sound
Wilson.
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The method I use to finish wood stocks is to use Tru-Oil mixed with paint thinner and an air brush. This provides a very uniform and level finish on the stock similar to factory finishes on quality firearms. It takes a lot of coats but you are only spraying a light coat of finish each coat. In between coats you use a hair dryer to dry the finish which takes very little time to dry.
Under the right humidity conditions you should be able to coat the stock every one half hour.
For many years I used the Tru-Oil directly out of the bottle but never could get perfect finishes. About 25 years ago a friend showed me how to use the air brush method on my walnut Sako stock which we completely finished in one evening.
Under the right humidity conditions you should be able to coat the stock every one half hour.
For many years I used the Tru-Oil directly out of the bottle but never could get perfect finishes. About 25 years ago a friend showed me how to use the air brush method on my walnut Sako stock which we completely finished in one evening.
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