I had a rod go on my brand new compressor. The company sent me a whole new top end. The original rod can be rebuilt so that is what I proceeded to do. I purchased some self lubricating bearings and had the rod bored out to size. the rod was a nice slip fit on the bearing shaft. I am trying to up load pictures not sure if I can had some errors earlier. It is a steel bearing with a self lubricating surface. I was wondering if anyone has attempted this and do they think I am headed in the right direction. the bearings are only about 3.00 each so I bought 5 of them. Anyone interested in one I can send them one. If it doesn't work I still have a whole new top end.
connecting rod rebuild Yong Heng look alike
- Thread starter ashes5
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Is the deping cup or point on the end of the rod still their?if not their will be no way to get oil to the bearing.
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Here is the rod with the deeping point.
OK i see you are using a bushing" that will work super"im assuming its a good press fit?
OK i see you are using a bushing" that will work super"im assuming its a good press fit?
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Split bushing. You bore it to 23 mm and your 20 mm dia will be there when you press it in. It is a self lubricanting bushing. Will it matter if you run it in oil also? It has a very thin film of Teflon. You can see the seem there. it is closed up in the bore.
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What about any side thrust the original rod is very smooth on both sides and you will also have to be very accurate with the stroke as not to hit the top of the 2nd stage piston to the top of the cylinder. I had my first unit which was a vevor seize when the oil slinger broke off, I ended up replacing the rod and crank and have had no problems since. Good luck with this setup if it works you will be extending the life of the unit quit a bit.
Good luck and please keep us posted,
Jim
Good luck and please keep us posted,
Jim
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This is the original rod. I caught it before it was completely destroyed. Boring it out cleaned it up. You can see a little bit of galding left on the face. I will have to rotate it by hand to see if it hits the head. There was 180 degrees of clean surface to indicate in. I would hope I have a few thousandths of a inch to work with. If it hits I can try a shim. Plus I have a whole new top end. Thanks for the information.
Roy
Roy
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Hello. I'm new here. I was considering joining an air gun forum and asking for some help and advice with a current issue I am having. I figured I'm only going to get deeper into this hobby so joining a forum early on is probably a good idea.
Before posting a new thread, I thought i would check current threads. I presume asking questions in threads which are already discussing the issue is the better option over starting a new thread.
My problem is exactly with a young heng look alike with a broken connecting rod.
On the third use of my compressor, the left hand crank bolt severed. Took me a while to find a replacement. Got two new bolts. Used one to put it back together. Tried to use the compressor. Filled my J.B. "great white" to 4000 psi before the connecting rod broke. At this point I am/Was wondering if I should have just got the air venturi compressor. Would rather not throw money in a pit.
Perhaps the situation is salvageble. Maybe I didn't put it back together properly. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but no mechanic. I'm open to and looking forward to any advice. A new rod with a bearing sounds good. I've no means of making one myself, but would be happy to compensate someone who can and will make one for me. Thanks in advance.
If any are curious I'm pretty new to the hobby but am going in hard. So far I have a pioneer airbow and an evanix rex p .45. I have a umarex hammer on order whenever they get around to releasing them. If any have the scoop on what the hold up is on that I'd like to hear it. I'm thinking of getting a hatsan sortie .25 or/and Maybe an Ataman ap16, and i look forward to getting one of the evanix semi autos actuated by air when they are released.
Before posting a new thread, I thought i would check current threads. I presume asking questions in threads which are already discussing the issue is the better option over starting a new thread.
My problem is exactly with a young heng look alike with a broken connecting rod.
On the third use of my compressor, the left hand crank bolt severed. Took me a while to find a replacement. Got two new bolts. Used one to put it back together. Tried to use the compressor. Filled my J.B. "great white" to 4000 psi before the connecting rod broke. At this point I am/Was wondering if I should have just got the air venturi compressor. Would rather not throw money in a pit.
Perhaps the situation is salvageble. Maybe I didn't put it back together properly. I'm fairly mechanically inclined, but no mechanic. I'm open to and looking forward to any advice. A new rod with a bearing sounds good. I've no means of making one myself, but would be happy to compensate someone who can and will make one for me. Thanks in advance.
If any are curious I'm pretty new to the hobby but am going in hard. So far I have a pioneer airbow and an evanix rex p .45. I have a umarex hammer on order whenever they get around to releasing them. If any have the scoop on what the hold up is on that I'd like to hear it. I'm thinking of getting a hatsan sortie .25 or/and Maybe an Ataman ap16, and i look forward to getting one of the evanix semi autos actuated by air when they are released.
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If you just purchased the compressor contact the company and tell them what happened. They sent me a whole new top end, piston rod cylinder etc.
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I have contacted them. They are super unhelpful. They won't or can't even tell me where to get parts. The unit failed on the third use, which was about 3 or 4 months after I got it. Much more time has elapsed by now.
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I probably wouldn't buy another one of these compressors. I new it was a chance when I bought it. I see some people swear by them and some swear at them. I am hoping this will be a good fix. time will tell. As far as any help If you have a 20mm diameter bearing journal I can send you one of these bearings. You need to bore the rod to 23mm that should give you the 20mm rod diameter. It would cost about 7.00 with shipping. Then you would need to find someone to bore the rod out and press the bearing in. Someone in airgunnation should have a Bridgeport mill that would bore it for you. I found a guy that I did a little swap with did it for me. It is a big decision to buy a 1200.00 system.
I started with a break barrel moved to the Benjamin Marauder then a FX impact then a FX crown. That will be my extent of air rifle buying. I think the Crown will do everything I want to do. I might get a 30 cal barrel for it.
Hope this helps good luck
Roy
I started with a break barrel moved to the Benjamin Marauder then a FX impact then a FX crown. That will be my extent of air rifle buying. I think the Crown will do everything I want to do. I might get a 30 cal barrel for it.
Hope this helps good luck
Roy
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Imo, that is the wrong bearing for the application. Iirc those are for slow linear applications
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If the bushing fits tight enough it will keep oil out, causing failure fast, I see a groove the bushing bore in the rod but no way to get the oil in the journal to bushing space, I may have to buy one of these units to tear it apart...Self lubricating bearing would need an ultra polished crank journal to last...
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Well folks just an update on my rod repair. I finally got around to putting the pump back together and gave it a test run and filled up the bottle on my crown. It ran for about 3-4 minutes (I only needed about 40 bar) and got up to a temp of 40 C (104 F). It seemed to hold about there. No rod rapping (a good thing).
This was a self lubricating bearing plus I put the blue oil in it.
I thought some people might be interested. I will update as I get more fills and try a bigger bottle.
This was a self lubricating bearing plus I put the blue oil in it.
I thought some people might be interested. I will update as I get more fills and try a bigger bottle.
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Great news - the rocket has left the launchpad! Have you considered if you will be doing a teardown at some point, taking a peek at the bearing to check for scoring, abrasion, wiping, fretting, overheating/burns, etc.?
https://www.machinedesign.com/bearings/detect-oil-film-bearing-failure
Good luck! Michael
https://www.machinedesign.com/bearings/detect-oil-film-bearing-failure
Good luck! Michael
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No not that concerned. If it breaks it didn't work. If it lasts it worked. I will be able to tell by the sound if the bearing is going and I can drive out the bushing and put a new one in. I have more sleeves if that happens. I figure anything is better than Aluminum on steel. I have a whole new top end for it also.6
Update 2nd run filled 130 bar, it filled it to 250 bar about, no knocks temp only got up to 37.5 C (99.5 degrees F). 2/7/2019
Update 2nd run filled 130 bar, it filled it to 250 bar about, no knocks temp only got up to 37.5 C (99.5 degrees F). 2/7/2019
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