Tuning Convert 177 to 22 HW95 ???

[MB1]

Grew up on BB and Pump Pellet Guns, also Firearms. Raised my kids the same way, plus a Chinese Springer. Got an estate sale Spanish Daisy Springer a few years ago. Finally got a German HW Springer last year and started shooting some smaller groups. Needed / wanted a little more power so I got a Weihrauch HW95 Luxus. Here's where I hate the barrel droop but also hate the $69 UPS shipping to return for a refund.



Mounted a new Hawke 3-9X40 w/ medium UTG rings and ran out of elevation quick. Four Coke shims later, got an OK zero but the bell was about to touch the receiver tube. Got some tall rings instead, and a plastic coated insurance card shim and an OK zero.



It's hard to be content with such rigging. Now I'm considering changing the barrel to a .22 caliber. Why??? I understand manufacturing enough to know my problem is either my barrel pivot hole or the receiver tube pivot hole. It could be the finished breach / seal face on either surface but probably either pivot hole or stacked tolerances of both. Why 22? I found one online and I've always had a 22 desire even though I think a 177 is really better for my needs. 



My basic question for the pros is, Is there about a 50% or better chance that a barrel will correct my excessive droop problem. The droop is obvious and a bit ugly.



Thanks a lot for considering my dilemma. Mike

 

[Moog]

I just replaced a .177 barrel with a .22 caliber barrel on a HW95. Like you I've found that I also prefer the .22. I'm no pro but it was very easy to do. I do not know if replacing the barrel would solve the droop problem but some here have spoken about bending a barrel to correct this type of issue. So if the barrel is the problem then I'm thinking that a new barrel with no droop would do the trick.

I ordered both of my HW95 rifles from Air Guns of Arizona. They have a very helpful technical department and it you give them a call they could probably give you an answer about what to do.

 

[Pea-shooter O.G.]

You could try a droop compensating adapter like this one. 

https://www.pyramydair.com/product/utg-drooper-scope-rail-11mm-to-weaver-adapter-compensates-for-droop?a=4191

My Diana 36's needed the droop rail. My Diana 38 had so much, it needed a Sportmatch adjustable mount. This one is a bit tall, but is solid and has alot of adjustment.

https://www.airgunsofarizona.com/scope-mounts/sportsmatch-aop55-1-pc-1-inch-high-scope-mount/

Or, you could bend the barrel! Works great but does take some force to get an adjustment made. 

 

[SteveP-52]

Barrel droop was brought up on another forum because a member trying to sort out the same problem found that when closed, the bottom of the breech block was pressing on the top of the cocking arm. While the barrel would lock, there was enough pressure that it wasn't locking fully making the barrel droop The same issue was found by several others with the same rifle. It might well be a place to check on yours to see if it might be your problem. 

 

[Pea-shooter O.G.]

Well, that is an odd manufacturing issue. Wonder if just the cocking shoe or cocking arm? I couldn't imagine after all these years of manufacturing the HW95, there would be a compression tube or breech block issue. Will be curious to hear WHAT exactly is the fault. Keep us posted SteveP. 

 

[beerthief]

HMMMM??? $69 VS $479 for a new gun , or voiding the warranty . I would call the dealer and ask for a return label .

 

[218bee]

Dont be afraid to bend the barrel. Just went through this with a nice R10 that had horrible droop. Being the first barrel I ever bent back, I was nervous, but it came out perfect, and the rifle is the most accurate springer I own. Dont want to clog up this thread, so PM me if you want to know how I did it. Was very simple.

 

[jccams]

There is a good chance it is the cocking arm interfering with the breech block as Steve pointed out. It seems there were some guns that got out without the slight bend in the arm. I bought a cocking arm for my 95 and it was straight, had to have the slight bend put in it. As Steve mentioned there is a detailed description of the problem and the fix on another forum.

BTW… I converted mine to a .22, not because of droop but I like the shot cycle better.

 

[MB1]

Thanks a lot for all the replies. I found the "Holy Barrel Droop" thread concerning the cocking arm. I looked close at mine and it is hitting the breech block and it feels like it is in a bind. This could be my problem. The breech block is obviously not closed to a level position either. I'll call AOA monday to try to get a warranty return. I'd love to fix it myself but I hate to waste the warranty. Thanks again guys. I'll post again. P.S. I'll have to scratch my .22 itch some other way.

 

[Vincent10]

I would try a BKL 1 piece droop compensated mount. I have used one with my HW97 to save some elevation adjustment. The way BKL rings clamp onto the rail also help get the scope close to center with the barrel. 

 

[MB1]

Got it fixed and will stay with 177 for now. I spoke with the original poster of the barrel droop thread and got some great instruction. I took the gun apart and put a little bend in the cocking arm to relieve the binding with the breech block. It's better than new now and no ugly droop. I took the shims out of the scope rings and it zeroed up asap and it's a tack driver. it's quieter and easier to cock and easier to lock up. 

First group - 5 shots at 25 yards. Moved it 3 clicks right to center it up and shot several more tight groups.

 

[jccams]

That’s the way to do it Mike, fix the problem, don’t put a bandaid on it.