Cricket II Tactical - barrel positioning and pellet seating / probe depth questions

Should the barrel's shoulder bottom out against the rear action housing (block)? I am familiar with how to use the locating screw on the barrel, to locate the front sleeve monoblock.

As a result of the above adjustment, the cocking linkage rod (and trigger linkage) will need to be adjusted. How deep should the pellet be seated into the barrel? Adjust the linkage so the probe pushes the pellet's skirt just past the transfer port?

Thanks for any suggestions.

C2T block off with arrows2.jpg
 
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Should the barrel's shoulder bottom out against the rear action housing (block)? I am familiar with how to use the locating screw on the barrel, to locate the front sleeve monoblock.

As a result of the above adjustment, the cocking linkage (and trigger linkage) will need to be adjusted. How deep should the pellet be seated into the barrel? Adjust the linkage so the probe pushes the pellet's skirt just past the transfer port?

Thanks for any suggestions.

View attachment 360568
If you adjust the linkage out too far, the hammer cocking pin will hit the linkage and cause the valve not to open properly or at all.
Lesson of experience not conjecture.
 
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I watched all of Earnest's Cricket videos. But there is no cocking linkage rod/s on the Crickets that have the rear lever.

I wonder if there is a distance between "some" component, and "some other" component, that they use during initial assembly.
The tech at AofA told me that it's set correctly when the cocking lever just starts to cam over on the close. This helps to keep it closed.
Watch the cocking lever pin in the hammer as they tend to loosen and back out.
Ernest indicated there is no real adjustment for the cocking lever.
 
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I used "cocking linkage" when I should have used "cocking linkage rod". Sorry for causing confusion. I edited the first post.

Adjusting the length of the cocking linkage rod will change how far the pellet probe goes into the breech.

View attachment 360606

View attachment 360607
We were on the same page. If you take the side cover off the block/trigger assembly you'll see that the bar that it is connected to cocks the hammer and that this adjustment can also affect the forward movement of the hammer.
 
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Thanks for your patience. I think I see now (about what you were saying in post #2). Thanks for hanging out while I caught up. If the rod is too long, the hammer will hit #5 (lever striker, from Kalibrgun's diagram) before it opens the valve properly.

And I think I figured out the other end of the adjustment. If the linkage rod is too short, when the cocking lever tries to cam over, the cocking plate (#8 in Kalibrgun's diagram) will bottom out on the pin. I'm going to adjust the rod until #8's slot just nearly almost touches the pin at the high point of the cam over. See image.

I was looking at this backwards. There really isn't much room for adjusting the probe depth (using the linkage rod).

To answer my own question about bottoming out the barrel in the block: I will double check once I remove the barrel....but I believe the answer is yes. The hole in the block measures the same distance (to hole center) as the center of the hole in the barrel from the shoulder (as best I could measure with the barrel still installed).

IF the barrel is supposed to bottom out in the block, then mine was not assembled correctly. There was about a 1/16th of an inch gap between the barrel shoulder and the block. So the transfer port in the barrel was not aligned with the hole in the block. Here's to hoping I can get an efficiency boost from this exercise.🍻

block_rs.jpg