Hi,since I get my Cricket Tactical 60, 6 weeks ago , I had some accuracy issues : POI shifting up , down , left and right and pellets velocity was inconsistent. So I decided to find out what was going wrong.
First I put a Huma regulator , which I set to 115 bars.
I improved the action somewhat by polishing some parts , and adjusted the trigger to make it lighter.
Now , I think this was maybe the most important part . The barrel of the Kalibrgun has a little dent , set at exactly 180 degrees of the barrel port . When fitting the barrel , this dent must be seen through the front screw hole in the picatinny rail . This means that the barrel port and the transfert port are exactly aligned. Despite the fact that the barrel is clamped by 3 or 4 allen screws , I noticed that it could rotate a bit when the shroud is overtorqued ; that happened on my gun . I also noticed that the screw which should keep the barrel in place was a bit too short , and doesn't touch the barrel . Moreover it had a flat nose instead of a pointed one ; a pointed nose means that the point of the screw engages the dent of the barrel , so the barrel doen't rotate when fitted . This was explained in an ernest Rowe video. What I did is changing the factory front screw by an homemade , longer and pointed one. Care must be taken to be sure the screw engages the dent and tightens the picatinny rail at the same time , so srcew lenght is crucial . The drawing below will make the explanations clearer ( I hope ) .
Here is the first shooting after all these modifications , and I'm pretty happy with the result , even if I think that accuracy could be improved a bit ...
First I put a Huma regulator , which I set to 115 bars.
I improved the action somewhat by polishing some parts , and adjusted the trigger to make it lighter.
Now , I think this was maybe the most important part . The barrel of the Kalibrgun has a little dent , set at exactly 180 degrees of the barrel port . When fitting the barrel , this dent must be seen through the front screw hole in the picatinny rail . This means that the barrel port and the transfert port are exactly aligned. Despite the fact that the barrel is clamped by 3 or 4 allen screws , I noticed that it could rotate a bit when the shroud is overtorqued ; that happened on my gun . I also noticed that the screw which should keep the barrel in place was a bit too short , and doesn't touch the barrel . Moreover it had a flat nose instead of a pointed one ; a pointed nose means that the point of the screw engages the dent of the barrel , so the barrel doen't rotate when fitted . This was explained in an ernest Rowe video. What I did is changing the factory front screw by an homemade , longer and pointed one. Care must be taken to be sure the screw engages the dent and tightens the picatinny rail at the same time , so srcew lenght is crucial . The drawing below will make the explanations clearer ( I hope ) .
Here is the first shooting after all these modifications , and I'm pretty happy with the result , even if I think that accuracy could be improved a bit ...