Crosman 140 fourth variant

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Love my 140 but keep it to 6 pumps most of the time due to the trigger pull issue. Shoots pretty close to my Sheridan although the Sheridan has a better trigger pull and better sights. I remember back in 1970 my big brother got one and I wanted desperately to shoot it. I had to pay him $5 back then for 5 pellets. Finally bought it off him when he got a 22 rimfire. Now I got every airgun I had or wanted as a kid which is special when you shoot them. These 140s and 1400s seem to going for reasonable cost unlike the Sheridans.
 
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You can shim the nose of the trigger away from the main tube, and the trigger pull at 10 pumps becomes usable. I wound up at .125, but recommend trial and error to determine what may work for your individual rifle. This mod also renders the safety inoperable, and once pumped, the rifle is cocked and unlocked. I have put hundreds of pellets through the rifle after doing this mod, and have noticed no ill effects what so ever.

One can also utilize a standard Crosman 13xx series peep sight on the rear of the 1400 rifles as well, to a give a longer sight radius and better defined sight picture for weary eyes.
File a radius on the bottom of the plastic peep body and use a longer screw through the rear plug.
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I've converted 2 of them to standard poppet valves one with a hammer and one with a rear cocking knob on the standard crosman 22xx trigger. One is a .177 platform and one a .25. going to mod one soon with the the original wood stock, 24 inch barrel, and aiming for an acp. I must say, yes the 140 trigger is no fun and I plan to drop in a 180 trigger once I turn a new hammer.
 
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airgunner53 said:
I've converted 2 of them to standard poppet valves one with a hammer and one with a rear cocking knob on the standard crosman 22xx trigger. One is a .177 platform and one a .25. going to mod one soon with the the original wood stock, 24 inch barrel, and aiming for an acp. I must say, yes the 140 trigger is no fun and I plan to drop in a 180 trigger once I turn a new hammer.
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What kind of performance do you see from the .25 conversion?
That is a real interesting idea.
 
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Hogged out the valve for max volume.155 ports all valve mods done, pinned the valve Inlet to remove almost all head space flat top piston weeker valve spring. Poppet valve ground down for flow and I use a rear cocking knob with spacer for more spring preload. Was getting 510fps with 27.5 grain before all the additional mods mentioned. I plan to chrony it soon and zero it for 20 yards. The .177 is getting over 1k with 7 grain on 10 pumps.
 
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airgunner53 said:
Hogged out the valve for max volume.155 ports all valve mods done, pinned the valve Inlet to remove almost all head space flat top piston weeker valve spring. Poppet valve ground down for flow and I use a rear cocking knob with spacer for more spring preload. Was getting 510fps with 27.5 grain before all the additional mods mentioned. I plan to chrony it soon and zero it for 20 yards. The .177 is getting over 1k with 7 grain on 10 pumps.
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That is respectable performance before the mods. I bet it is gonna get you up close to 600 with the additional rework, and that is gonna put the whomp on critters and cans.
I shoot resized JSB Kings through my Apache and it hits 590 to 600 on 10 pumps. It devastates the yard varmints.
Keep us posted on your results, I am really keen on your mods and eager to see the final performance results!
 
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Can someone explain how the 140 trigger aiming works
Chuck-in-Ohio said:
You can shim the nose of the trigger away from the main tube, and the trigger pull at 10 pumps becomes usable. I wound up at .125, but recommend trial and error to determine what may work for your individual rifle. This mod also renders the safety inoperable, and once pumped, the rifle is cocked and unlocked. I have put hundreds of pellets through the rifle after doing this mod, and have noticed no ill effects what so ever.

One can also utilize a standard Crosman 13xx series peep sight on the rear of the 1400 rifles as well, to a give a longer sight radius and better defined sight picture for weary eyes.
File a radius on the bottom of the plastic peep body and use a longer screw through the rear plug.
View attachment 491122
Click to expand...
Can you explain the trigger mod a bit more please.
 
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airgunner53 said:
Can you explain the trigger mod a bit more please.
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Absolutely.



1000002214.jpg


The probe is pointing to the .125 shim that I used. It is 90 durometer rubber bonded to the trigger nose with Zap a Gap CA glue.
The trigger surface was prepped with a swiss file, 320 grit emery cloth and acetone. The rubber shim was cut to size and cleaned with acetone.
The above photo also shows the safety plunger at OEM length. Left as such, the safety lever WILL NOT be able to be reinstalled, and you will of course have NO SAFETY.

1000002215.jpg

In the above photo the probe is pointing to the safety plunger that has been shortened by .125, that relates to the ammount that I shimmed the trigger.
This allows the safety lever to be reinstalled in normal fashion, and YOU WILL HAVE A FUNCTIONING SAFETY on the rifle.

As always, proceed with caution, make careful measurements, and be absolutely sure to bump test the bejeebus out of the rifle before committing.
 
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Chuck-in-Ohio said:
Absolutely.



View attachment 491455

The probe is pointing to the .125 shim that I used. It is 90 durometer rubber bonded to the trigger nose with Zap a Gap CA glue.
The trigger surface was prepped with a swiss file, 320 grit emery cloth and acetone. The rubber shim was cut to size and cleaned with acetone.
The above photo also shows the safety plunger at OEM length. Left as such, the safety lever WILL NOT be able to be reinstalled, and you will of course have NO SAFETY.

View attachment 491457
In the above photo the probe is pointing to the safety plunger that has been shortened by .125, that relates to the ammount that I shimmed the trigger.
This allows the safety lever to be reinstalled in normal fashion, and YOU WILL HAVE A FUNCTIONING SAFETY on the rifle.

As always, proceed with caution, make careful measurements, and be absolutely sure to bump test the bejeebus out of the rifle before committing.
Click to expand...
Awesome, I will definitely be doing this mod on one of my builds.
One can also cut the valve Inlet seal rod in half to increase volume and reduce pressure on the trigger. I've seen it here in the forums.
 
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airgunner53 said:
Awesome, I will definitely be doing this mod on one of my builds.
One can also cut the valve Inlet seal rod in half to increase volume and reduce pressure on the trigger. I've seen it here in the forums.
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Give it a try and see what you think. I never pump past 10, and while the mod does not magically transform the trigger into match quality, it does make it far more usable and less graunchy feeling.
Can you point me to the thread where the valve rod mod is discussed? A quick search revealed bumpkus for me. Thanks in advance!

Treefrog said:
That's a great mod! A fully adjustable QB78 trigger group will probably bolt right on. I'll measure mine and compare it.

View attachment 491555

Cheers,

J~
Click to expand...
That may be the idea of the week right there, keep us updated if you can.
 
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I just noticed that I forgot to mention the following-

The mod I mentioned also involved polishing the sear face of the trigger, and the valve cap surface that bears against the trigger. Use the lubricant of your choice on these surfaes and you will have a crisp trigger break point and not the creepy 'when will it break' pull these rifles are known for.
It will still be heavy, but it will be crisp, and you do not have to drill for a set screw.
Drilling for a set screw in the rear of the trigger housing will give you more precise adjustment, but the end result will be the same.
 
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Larger valve volume (not too large), Inlet hole pinned to remove head space, valve spring compressed for easy open, poppet ground for flow, .157 ports in the barrel and transfer port, and exhaust angled for more flow. Produced 556 fps on 16 pumps with 15.49 .22 pellets on a stock barrel and pump cup. The same can be done on the 1400 as I did it on my 1425 and 1477.
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In order as pictured.
Crosman 2260/ disco trigger
Crosman 140/1400 trigger
Crosman 160/Qb Trigger
Notice the seer engaged in different areas and function different. The 160 holds the hammer from going forward, the 140 holds the blow off from coming back, the 2260 and the qb trigger fiction in the same way to a degree but hammer engagement is different. The qb trigger would not work on a 140 but a 2260 trigger may with some seer modifications or convert it to a standard poppet valve and make a new hammer.
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I had a Crosman 760 as a kid in the early 1970s but never shot or handled a 140/1400 or Sheridan. Everyone I knew back then could only afford the 760s. I picked up a 1400 in .22 awhile ago which was recently rebuilt and really like the rifle. Even with only 3-4 pumps it's accurate out to 30 yards and will punch through a can. Finding the jsb RS pellets work well in this gun.
 
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Shuggoth said:
I had a Crosman 760 as a kid in the early 1970s but never shot or handled a 140/1400 or Sheridan. Everyone I knew back then could only afford the 760s. I picked up a 1400 in .22 awhile ago which was recently rebuilt and really like the rifle. Even with only 3-4 pumps it's accurate out to 30 yards and will punch through a can. Finding the jsb RS pellets work well in this gun.
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Nice! Glad you finally got one. The good thing about .22 vintage pellet rifle is the barrels aren't all smoothed out by people shooting bb' s through them. I'm actually guilty of doing that with bb's until I learned better
 
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