Thanks for sharingUpon diving into mine to drill out the transfer-port to soup it up to 10 foot pounds with absolutely no previous experience going into Crosman PCPS, I declared my 1701P the most logically designed and well-executed airgun on Earth. Consequently, THE EASIEST TO WORK ON AIRGUN ON EARTH.
It took me all of 20 minutes for me to go from utter ignorance of servicing Crosman PCPs to increasing my 1701P's power by 300%, with no loss of accuracy whatsoever. Check out that .17" c-t-c ONE-HOLE five-shot group on the left, shot at 25 yards; not to mention the .33" AVERAGE group size.
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Per my attached testing notes, a subsequent B-Staley mod increased shot-count by 46%, at a cost of only 10% of the souped-up power.
I consider the 1701P not only the easiest to work on airgun on Earth, but also the best bang for the buck in air pistols. Likely also the least appreciated!
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Thanks for sharing. Grips look greatSo much fun! I'm still shooting mine as it came from the factory. From about 2800 PSI down to 1600 PSI, I get well over 50 shots. I refill in less than 60 seconds with a cheap hand pump. I find that loading can be a little tricky with the lighter domed pellets, as they tend to turn on their heads when they go from the pellet tray to the barrel. My remedy has been to push them into the barrel with my thumb a bit and then close the bolt. heavier pellets with longer skirts don't seem to do that, but JSB 7.3gr and 7.8gr pellets do.
The gun isn't particularly pellet picky. Light pellets, heavy pellets, lead round ball and even slugs seem to shoot great from mine at 10 meters. But I usually shoot 7.8gr domes for target practice. If you're after accuracy and honing your skills, this is a very nice gun for the money. What sight will you put on yours?
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I'm going to try with open sights first and then decideSo much fun! I'm still shooting mine as it came from the factory. From about 2800 PSI down to 1600 PSI, I get well over 50 shots. I refill in less than 60 seconds with a cheap hand pump. I find that loading can be a little tricky with the lighter domed pellets, as they tend to turn on their heads when they go from the pellet tray to the barrel. My remedy has been to push them into the barrel with my thumb a bit and then close the bolt. heavier pellets with longer skirts don't seem to do that, but JSB 7.3gr and 7.8gr pellets do.
The gun isn't particularly pellet picky. Light pellets, heavy pellets, lead round ball and even slugs seem to shoot great from mine at 10 meters. But I usually shoot 7.8gr domes for target practice. If you're after accuracy and honing your skills, this is a very nice gun for the money. What sight will you put on yours?
View attachment 463593
I should probably know this, what exactly is a B. Staley mod? TiaUpon diving into mine to drill out the transfer-port to soup it up to 10 foot pounds with absolutely no previous experience going into Crosman PCPS, I declared my 1701P the most logically designed and well-executed airgun on Earth. Consequently, THE EASIEST TO WORK ON AIRGUN ON EARTH.
It took me all of 20 minutes for me to go from utter ignorance of servicing Crosman PCPs to increasing my 1701P's power by 300%, with no loss of accuracy whatsoever. Check out that .17" c-t-c ONE-HOLE five-shot group on the left, shot at 25 yards; not to mention the .33" AVERAGE group size.
View attachment 463663
Per my attached testing notes, a subsequent B-Staley mod increased shot-count by 46%, at a cost of only 10% of the souped-up power.
I consider the 1701P not only the easiest to work on airgun on Earth, but also the best bang for the buck in air pistols. Likely also the least appreciated!
View attachment 463665
View attachment 463662
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No, they came with a used gun. Corcoran, woods and water is the site they came from.Thanks for sharing. Did you make the grips and fore-end
I should probably know this, what exactly is a B. Staley mod? Tia
Thanks for the tutorial. Relatively simple and inexpensive tune out side of getting it all just right. The added humor was also nice, I need that sometimes.The B-Staley "tune" is simply installing o-rings between the valve-stem and hammer in order to cushion the hammer-blow when it strikes the valve stem; thereby reducing the amount of wasted charge with each shot resulting from hammer-bounce/valve-flutter. Usually quite a trial and error process, involving number of o-rings, velocity testing, and several dis and re-assemblies between chronographing.
Basics-
1) The o-rings outside-diameter should be a snug fit in the inside diameter of the tube.
2) Larger cross-section o-rings probably work better than small cross-sections (for staying in place).
3) The o-ring stack should probably exceed 1/2 to 2/3 of the amount of exposed valve-stem.
4) Rubber FLAT washers probably work better than o-rings for remaining in place.
5) Though (obviously) a pain in the ass, as seen in my 1701P testing, increases in efficiency/shot-count can be surprising.
6) "Patience, Grasshoppah." (I know; but the closest emoji I could find is this cricket. Obviously emoji designers are much too young to know Kung Fu.)
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Yes absolutely fantastic. I've molded it alreadyOne of the most accurate pistols. I teeter between keeping it stock or modding it for 10 for lbs. Either way it's a great one.
Modded
Yes absolutely do you like themThanks for sharing. Did you make the grips and fore-end
Thanks for the tutorial. Relatively simple and inexpensive tune out side of getting it all just right. The added humor was also nice, I need that sometimes.