Crosman 760 Removing Pivot Pin Retainer?

[El_Pistolero]

I'm trying to resurrect a 1980 v.4 Crosman 760 by replacing seals and pump cup. How do I remove the Pivot Pin Retainer from the pin? Is a special tool or technique required? You can see in the photo the clip is tiny.
Here's all the Service Manual says to do:

III LEVER AND PUMP GROUP A. DISASSEMBLY 1. Remove front Set Screw 760A027 from Barrel 760-093 with a 3/32” Allen wrench. 2. Open Lever/Link Assembly 760A043. 3. Clamp Pump Tube 760-094 in vise so that about 1½” of Pump Tube 760-094 is protruding from vise. 4. Remove Pivot Pin Retainer 760-072 and punch out Pivot Pin 760-071. 5. Slide forward the Front Barrel Guide 760B008.

 

[iAMzehTOASTY1]

Could punch it out and get a new retainer
Thinking you would have to find a "wedge" with a notch in the middle...I forget the name of that tool

 

[El_Pistolero]

I'm thinking, after I put the gun in the vice, I need to push the clip off the post a little. (Pushing down in the photo) Once I've moved it a little, I think I might be able to slip a small screwdriver blade into the now-exposed gap between the clip and the pin and leverage the clip away. A wedge-shaped tool may do that. I'll return to DuckDuckGo with your suggestion.

The whole problem is what to use to push the clip in the first place. I tried a small driver blade but it slipped and you can see the resulting scratch. :-/ A dowel is too soft. I tried working my smallest punch (1/16") into the clip's opening but the round shape of the punch wasn't effective.

Google searches for a clip retainer tool gives me something like this--

 

[El_Pistolero]

Well, I figured out a way, I don't know if it's the way. I was wrong about pushing the clip
off the post (like parallel w/ the tube) The clip lifts up and off of the post, away from the tube.

*Note: The clip at first seems to be under some tension so I was trying to shield things so if the clip went flying, I could, in theory, find it.

First, I masked around the pin with painter's tape.

Then, using the largest flathead jeweler's driver I have, I was able to work it under the clip. The clip seemed as if one end was easier to lift. Using a twisting motion on the driver, I was able to lift one side of the clip up and over the flange of the pivot pin.

I used a smaller flathead to "hold my spot" so the clip wouldn't jump back into place. I also slid another piece of tape under where I'd be working after making my first "twist up."

I had to move the big driver three times before that was enough to have lift up and over the post.

I then used a combination of a 5/32" metal punch and a ball peen hammer to knock out the pivot pin. The punch drove the pin in most of the way.

I had to use the hammer alone to get the flange of the pin through the hole in the tube. Moving the pump arm around a little made sure everything was lined up and the pin wasn't binding. Once the flange was past the hole, the punch was needed to finish the job.

With the pivot pin out it's easy to slide the barrel ring with attached pump arm and seals down the barrel.

 

[Treefrog]

Nice work! It's good to know how it's done.

I use a motocycle chain-breaker to push pins out.

J~

 

[DRose]

After opening the pump lever, I just smack it with a hammer and the pin comes out.

 

[El_Pistolero]

After opening the pump lever, I just smack it with a hammer and the pin comes out.

I tried that but the pin didn't budge. Made a hellava racket too. Maybe now that I have everything apart and cleaned, that will work the next time I need to disassemble.

 

[El_Pistolero]

I got my June 1980* 760 put back together after a cleaning, polishing, and installing new seals and valve. It works great although there were a couple of hiccups along the way.
Disassemble: -Getting a stuck air chamber out of the tube
Reassemble: -Mating up the receiver inlet port with the air chamber outlet port gasket
-Replaced the forearm backwards

*I found out while looking for an accurate schematic that the 760's design changed beginning July '80.

It was hard to give up the old all-metal valve for the kit's plastic & metal valve. :-/

Thought I would follow-up with the retainer ring going back on. In my original post I mentioned the ring has an end higher than the other. I laid the gun flat with the post sticking up. I put the ring on top of the post and used my thumb nails to push it down and tilt it just a little so I could get the low end of the ring under the flange. Then I used two of my smaller pin punches to work my way around the post, pushing the ring down with the front punch and "holding my spot" with the trailing punch. The flat bottoms of the punches were perfect for pushing the ring under the flange. It popped back in place fairly easily although there is that short period where the ring is under tension and could perhaps go flying if one isn't careful.

I'll try buffing out my scratches and spot re-bluing around the retainer post later.

 

[Treefrog]

Good on ya for getting it back to working order! I'm not a fan of plastic parts either.

Every time we fix something we learn new ways to make mistakes...

J~

 

[mcclougj]

I tried that but the pin didn't budge. Made a hellava racket too. Maybe now that I have everything apart and cleaned, that will work the next time I need to disassemble.

Good on ya for getting it back to working order! I'm not a fan of plastic parts either.

Every time we fix something we learn new ways to make mistakes...

J~

I used a large nail punch (about the diameter of the tip of the pin) to free the ring clip. Then I used a smaller punch to drive the pin out.