Custom PEEK Washer for Impact M3

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I don’t have an FX, so I wasn’t fully understanding what this part does, but if it is just flattening the bottom so the o-ring seals better, then the angle tolerance doesn’t need to be tight since it is not doing the sealing. If the bore on the part this goes into is drilled as it appears to be, then it could be 118 degrees instead of 120 since that is a common drill angle. I read through the thread linked above and don’t recall how the angle was determined, but even a couple degrees off shouldn’t matter as long as both are concentric to each other.

Airgunmann said:
Thought about just end milling the piece as well but can't really see to make sure there would be enough meat after making it flat
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If there is enough material left, then that might be the best solution, one less part to possibly fail.
 
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Ischgl99 said:
I don’t have an FX, so I wasn’t fully understanding what this part does, but if it is just flattening the bottom so the o-ring seals better, then the angle tolerance doesn’t need to be tight since it is not doing the sealing. If the bore on the part this goes into is drilled as it appears to be, then it could be 118 degrees instead of 120 since that is a common drill angle. I read through the thread linked above and don’t recall how the angle was determined, but even a couple degrees off shouldn’t matter as long as both are concentric to each other.



If there is enough material left, then that might be the best solution, one less part to possibly fail.
Click to expand...

I wonder if FX are aware of the issue?. It wouldn't be a big deal for them to change the specification and all new parts be drilled square....
 
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The angle - inside the drilled hole - is standard 120 degree.
In America you sharpen the drill 118 degree for the same America market, in EU or Asia 120 degree - for their own market.
Unless specified otherwise.
The metric screws the same, if made in America for American market the thread angle is 60 degree, if made in metric world to use in metric world the angle is 57 degree. ;)
Also, since I am here... the metric system cuts the metric threaded holes in 3 steps (3 taps) tolerances and screws in 2 steps, vs the American system is a single step tapping tool.
For this same reason you have probably find out that - on an imported metric part or assembly the American made screws or bolts or nuts are - very loose tolerance. So, best not to mix, if the part is made in metric side of the world get the replacement screws which are made for that metric world.
 
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Vetmx said:
They are aware of every major FX topic discussed on this forum. The angle was determined by making a mold of what what going on down inside the plenum plug.
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I read through the linked thread again, Seekins measured the mold at 118 degrees, but later made parts to 120 degrees. I’m not sure what changed, but I can make them to any angle needed.
 
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If you’re cutting the od of your stock to size, a 3 jaw works as good as a 4, so long as you do not remove the stock.

I generally only dig out the 4 jaw if I have to flip a part around and work on the other end or I am modifying a part such as opening a bore. Obviously there are many more uses for the 4.

And fwiw, if I only had one, it would be a 4 but I got by for a long time without one. Patience and paper strips, you can dial a part in on a 3, :ROFLMAO:

Dave
 
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I’m using 3/8” stock, so the OD needs to get turned down and type of chuck doesn’t matter since all the steps will be done in one workholding operation. I usually use my collet chucks on anything less than 1”, that way I can get in close without worrying about the jaws, and this part is perfect for that. 4 jaw chucks are nice, I usually use that when needed or if it is already installed, it takes less time to dial in the stock than it does to change the chuck, so not worth changing over unless I have several of the same things to make. My 3 jaw chuck is probably the least used chuck. The stock should arrive tonight, so hopefully I’ll have a sample made in a couple days someone can try and make sure it fits before making a batch of them.
 
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I have a couple of them made up to see what the difference is between drilling and reaming with this material. I did one with the bore reamed to 3mm and it came out the same as the aluminum test piece, the 3mm gage pin wouldn’t go in easily, but the 2.98 did. I drilled another with a 3mm drill, that came to 3.02mm, better than I was expecting. I can do these for $10 each plus shipping, whoever wants one first, I’ll send both the drilled and the reamed ones and you can let me know if one bore size works better than the other, or if there is no difference.
 
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Airgunmann said:
I could probably do another one I have to make one for M3 I have apart now that I'm working on it's got to be a pretty tight fit on the rod I got plenty of viton orings also I noticed if mine sits a month it still does it I would recommend a few drops of silicone oil in the fill port and then fill it to keep it lubed up I'm a self taught on the lathe so it may not be perfect as far as angle wise
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Give this a shot

Setting A Lathe Compound to a Nearly Perfect Angle

This video, describes and demonstrates, a great setup technique for achieving a precision angle on a lathe, using your compound. This is how I bored the 4/0 internal taper on the miniature lathe project. Take a Look !! Patreon Support: https://www.patreon.com/joepie Website...
inv.pistasjis.net inv.pistasjis.net
 
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rodm1 said:
Give this a shot

Setting A Lathe Compound to a Nearly Perfect Angle

This video, describes and demonstrates, a great setup technique for achieving a precision angle on a lathe, using your compound. This is how I bored the 4/0 internal taper on the miniature lathe project. Take a Look !! Patreon Support: https://www.patreon.com/joepie Website...
inv.pistasjis.net inv.pistasjis.net
Click to expand...
That’s how I do it.
 
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Airgunnerscott said:
So is there anybody selling these Peek washers ??
I just bought an FX Impact, and the stiction is horrible...But i dont own a lathe...
Any leads would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
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Not that I know of
I would try a few drop of silicone oil and turn hammer up some which will help first slow shot Try this first they can be a pain in the ace to get them to seal up again sometimes
 
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Airgunnerscott said:
much better fix,
Airgunmann Have you tryed one of these from mubhaur yet?
Click to expand...
I have his part in my Impact. If its tuned properly the first slow shot is gone(my first shot afther storing for days is 15 fps lower) . If you tune it to 98% of the plateau its spot on from first shot. I tuned mine to 95% to save some air. I cannot hunt in my country so 15 fps doesnt do much
 
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