I’d like to have a HW 50s barrel cut down to 8”, crowned and threaded. Recommendations?
Thanks,
Paul
Thanks,
Paul
Cut, crown and thread a barrel: Recommendations please
- Thread starter libertyman777
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Tough to find anyone that will do all of those things and do them properly. You may be able to find one person that will do one or the other.
I recommend you do what I did. Get a slip on mod and make some internals for it. Mine covers at least 5" of my barrel, and I use it to cock the gun. Still effective at sound dampening, too. (hw50s)
Or sell yours and get the one that has the shorter barrel that is threaded.
Also AOA might be able to order said barrel.
I recommend you do what I did. Get a slip on mod and make some internals for it. Mine covers at least 5" of my barrel, and I use it to cock the gun. Still effective at sound dampening, too. (hw50s)
Or sell yours and get the one that has the shorter barrel that is threaded.
Also AOA might be able to order said barrel.
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Just FYI....
Around a decade ago I bought an 22cal R9 barrel off of a local shooter that was chopped to 8" and choked. The belief was/is that a springer can only produce a given amount of compressed air to push the pellet out. If a barrel is too longI or too short for the given caliber the velocity would be affected. I was curious enough to try this on my R9.
Once installed I soon found that cocking the gun required two hands with the gun pressed against my chest and a lot of strained effort. At that time I was in my early 60's and in fairly good health. My gun using a factory barrel in 22 would produce close to 680fps at around 2700ft above sea level. This 8" barrel produced 610 fps with the same tune so I believe 8" is too short for a 22cal barrel on an R9.
I had picked up some barrel shroud bleems from ARH in the 12-14" lengths earlier and fitted one to that 8" barrel making the gun usable and although not as powerful as my other barrel it is accurate.
Oh -- almost forgot, Pamona Air used to chop and choke barrels and may still do that but you will need to ask.
Good luck on your quest....
Around a decade ago I bought an 22cal R9 barrel off of a local shooter that was chopped to 8" and choked. The belief was/is that a springer can only produce a given amount of compressed air to push the pellet out. If a barrel is too longI or too short for the given caliber the velocity would be affected. I was curious enough to try this on my R9.
Once installed I soon found that cocking the gun required two hands with the gun pressed against my chest and a lot of strained effort. At that time I was in my early 60's and in fairly good health. My gun using a factory barrel in 22 would produce close to 680fps at around 2700ft above sea level. This 8" barrel produced 610 fps with the same tune so I believe 8" is too short for a 22cal barrel on an R9.
I had picked up some barrel shroud bleems from ARH in the 12-14" lengths earlier and fitted one to that 8" barrel making the gun usable and although not as powerful as my other barrel it is accurate.
Oh -- almost forgot, Pamona Air used to chop and choke barrels and may still do that but you will need to ask.
Good luck on your quest....
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John in PA can do what you are wanting, he has done two HW50 barrels for me.
I think he will recommend against going to 8" though.
I think he will recommend against going to 8" though.
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Any..."reputable"...machine shop can do this.
1.) The cutting isn't a problem. 2.) YOU will need to provide the dimensions of the "crowning", I'd imagine though. 3.) The threading is also no big deal.
Or...look for a local gunsmith. Again, this is all simple work for an experienced gunsmith.
The internet is your friend !
Mike
1.) The cutting isn't a problem. 2.) YOU will need to provide the dimensions of the "crowning", I'd imagine though. 3.) The threading is also no big deal.
Or...look for a local gunsmith. Again, this is all simple work for an experienced gunsmith.
The internet is your friend !
Mike
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if your mechanically inclined there is several good videos on youtube on how to do your own, ive been watching them cause im gonna do my own soon, good luck
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You should be cautious about threading the muzzle. Cutting external threads can change the internal diameter. Many precision smiths will warn against it. Donny sells slip on adapters with the appropriate threading for airgun silencers. If your barrel is a nonstandard diameter, it's a very easy thing for machinist to fabricate.
Just reread your post. You're planning on cutting the barrel, so any choke will be removed anyway. In that case, threading may do no additional harm.
Just reread your post. You're planning on cutting the barrel, so any choke will be removed anyway. In that case, threading may do no additional harm.
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Threading the OD of the barrel should not effect the ID, would like to hear it explained how it can ?
I work at a machine shop and deal with things like this daily.
The threads do need to be concentric to the bore.
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Over 30+ years, I have had discussions with several precision gunsmiths that have been totally consistent in their reports of muzzle threading opening the bore diameter. And not just threading, but turning down the OD to a smaller profile. I'm not a machinist, but these are folks whose experience and reputation are without question. One, a maker of a well known air rifle told me he has had customers who have requested muzzle threading. He did it on occasion, with the express understanding that accuracy would not be guaranteed. In most cases, accuracy was substantially degraded.
There was also a correlation of the effect between barrels that were hammer forged, button rifled, and cut rifled, but it's been so long I don't remember the details. If you do some online research, I think you will find the metallurgical answers. I'm not making up this stuff.
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Forgive me for asking, but I am simply curious.
Why do you want to cut the barrel down to 8 inches?
What is the end objective of doing this?
Thanks!
Why do you want to cut the barrel down to 8 inches?
What is the end objective of doing this?
Thanks!
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Sure. My goal is to duplicate the Sandwell Imp. They make three versions. The Imp in .22 and Snipe and Jack Snipe in ..20 and .25.
I’m no expert but I believe they have found a sweet spot in the combination of the FPE, piston stroke, volume of air in the tube and the needed barrel length so as not to impose drag on the pellet and reduce lock time of the slower traveling projectile.
Watch the videos and judge for yourself. I think they are pretty cool.
https://youtu.be/zMh5Ej8b2xE
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I didn't mean to be snappy in my response, but this phenomenon is not intuitive. The type of barrel manufacturing process, and stress relieving involved are related to the issue, but again, I can't remember the correlations. Years ago, Bill Calfee built two rimfire BR rifles for me. He was very specific in the barrel contour we ordered, because he said if he turned it down, he would usually have to do more lapping work to regain the choke he wanted at the muzzle, as the turning would open it a bit. I've had a couple of air rifle precision makers tell me the same.
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Sorry, that video is too long and the music was annoying. So, I'll take your word for it. Good luck!
p.s. I gave up on spring/nitro piston airguns long ago. I actually like to hit what I am aiming at without having to worry about all of the variables springers/nitro piston airguns introduce. I have enough trouble keeping the basics of trigger control, follow through and consistent hold with PCP guns. (gentle smirk)
I hope you find what you are looking for and it doesn't cost you too much only to find out that it wasn't worth the effort or $$$$ that would have afforded you a decent PCP. (grin)
Then again, you may have enough "do-re-me" to play with things like this without it breaking the bank. In any case good luck!
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