Cutting barrel shroud

[PolarisRngr]

Hello fellas, I’m looking at cutting the barrel shroud down on my AEA varmint .25. There is about 5” of shroud that could be shortened to match the barrel length. I will have to have the threads recut so the end cap adapter is still useable.

Has anyone done this?

Will there be any negative effects?

Thanks for the input

 

[bigHUN]

I cut the FX 700 shroud to 600 without recuting the thread. Cut the tube from gun end and not the muzzle end, use arrows making hot melt to fix it.

 

[Vetmx]

If you cut the shroud off to match the barrel length, you are almost to the point of just not using a shroud. Your gun will be louder and almost totally dependent on your mod to quiet the gun.

 

[yenniedn]

I cut the FX 700 shroud to 600 without recuting the thread. Cut the tube from gun end and not the muzzle end, use arrows making hot melt to fix it.

@bigHUN, I need to do this exact thing for my 700mm Impact shroud. How is the conical cap on the gun end attached to the shroud and how did you remove it? From your statement above, it sounds like it's just glued on at that end? If so, did you use heat to remove it? After that, is any strong adhesive good enough to glue it back or is there a specific reason you went with the arrows making hot melt? Thx!

 

[bigHUN]

...How is the conical cap on the gun end attached to the shroud and how did you remove it? ...

Yes, both end caps (front and rear cone) are glued with some sort of hotmelt by FX, and for this same reason I used hotmelt which I already had in my drawers from time I was building my own arrows.
Any of these hotmelts will work:

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Lancaster Archery Supply

lancasterarchery.com

Hold the cone in a padded wise and heat up the portion where they overlap, twist it slightly to feel if hot enough and started moving. When you brake it loose you can cut the shroud tube with plumbers pipe cutter or by hand with a metal saw.
I have my own arrow cutting fixture, this one I used to sand the tube end square - rolling the tube on bearings.
Assembly in a same way, heat up the cone and when you push in the hotmelt just apply it all around the perimeter, push in the tube and you done.

 

[yenniedn]

Yes, both end caps (front and rear cone) are glued with some sort of hotmelt by FX, and for this same reason I used hotmelt which I already had in my drawers from time I was building my own arrows.
Any of these hotmelts will work:

Search Results

Lancaster Archery Supply

lancasterarchery.com

Hold the cone in a padded wise and heat up the portion where they overlap, twist it slightly to feel if hot enough and started moving. When you brake it loose you can cut the shroud tube with plumbers pipe cutter or by hand with a metal saw.
I have my own arrow cutting fixture, this one I used to sand the tube end square.
Assembly in a same way, heat up the cone and when you push in the hotmelt just apply6 it all around the perimeter, push in the tube and you done.

Awesome - thanks for the detailed explanation . . . really appreciate it!

 

[Airgunmann]

Did you get them apart I had to heat the front and the rear to get them apart

 

[yenniedn]

So I cut the gun end of my 700mm M3 shroud and found out that it is also threaded on that end as well as shown in the photos below. Cutting on this end is definitely still the right thing to do b/c cutting on the other end would affect where the barrel end sits in relation to the end of the shroud and probably make it less effective. So now I have to get the newly cut end of the shroud rethreaded so that the cap will be able to be screwed back on...

 

[Airgunmann]

Epoxy

 

[bigHUN]

.... So now I have to get the newly cut end of the shroud rethreaded so that the cap will be able to be screwed back on...

View attachment 422761

Why to screw back on? Take a file and remove the thread tips (only to the bottom of the thread) and it will slide back into tube. Of course you will glue it at the end...

 

[Ricochet]

Why to screw back on? Take a file and remove the thread tips (only to the bottom of the thread) and it will slide back into tube. Of course you will glue it at the end...

The mainest reason i can think of, is that threads are a lot better way of adjoining 2 pieces of metal, vs glue. He wants it to be nice, like factory, not a cobbeled up piece of junk.

 

[bigHUN]

The hotmelt I mentioned earlier is a beast.
We shoot arrows again and again hundreds of times in hardest/toughest targets and when pulling out easier to break the CF shaft then the bond to separate.
But again up to you

 

[Ries]

Ive just bought a 500mm barrel for the maverick second hand and cut the shroud to lenght for the 500mm impact with a plumbers pipe cutter.
The cut was perfect, take your time and don't do it in a worry.

Filed the threads of the cup and installed it with some strong 2 components glue.

Works like a charm and saved me like 150 dollar.

Just waiting on my Alsafe 300cc bottle now.

 

[yenniedn]

Why to screw back on? Take a file and remove the thread tips (only to the bottom of the thread) and it will slide back into tube. Of course you will glue it at the end...

The mainest reason i can think of, is that threads are a lot better way of adjoining 2 pieces of metal, vs glue. He wants it to be nice, like factory, not a cobbeled up piece of junk.

It's not a bad idea to file down the threads and glue the end piece back on and I would do that if I didn't have another option readily available. Luckily, a local friend has a machine shop and said that this would be easy for him to do (at no cost) so that's why I would prefer to go with getting the newly cut end of the shroud rethreaded. If that wasn't an easy option (or if it was going to cost and arm and a leg to do), I would definitely consider going with the filing/gluing route...

 

[bigHUN]

It's not a bad idea to file down the threads and glue the end piece back on...

I could source it to friends shop as well, but the convenience, also I could do all in 5 minutes by hand instead of wasting my valuable time driving around