Daisy Daisy 499b

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The 2 3/4 inch pad added to the stock make a big difference to me. I am naturally at the correct eye relief distance. So I’m confident the adjustable butt pad will be great. And I’m not so crunched up . I was going to make an adjustable cheek piece. But the rifle has no scope. So I don’t need up. Just a little movement to the right. I might try carving a cheek well so my cheek goes into the same spot every time. That also has a nice target gun look.
Walnut stain and oil finish. Might look nice.
 
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Iowa Airgunner said:
The 2 3/4 inch pad added to the stock make a big difference to me. I am naturally at the correct eye relief distance. So I’m confident the adjustable butt pad will be great. And I’m not so crunched up . I was going to make an adjustable cheek piece. But the rifle has no scope. So I don’t need up. Just a little movement to the right. I might try carving a cheek well so my cheek goes into the same spot every time. That also has a nice target gun look.
Walnut stain and oil finish. Might look nice.
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Post some pictures once it’s installed. Though the dimensions for the rifle was more kid oriented it pretty decent for me and I am 6’-1”. A little more length would hurt. The forearm has a trough built in for adding lead weights. I plan to drill two to three 1/2” holes in the butt stock 6” deep and inserting lead rods. Then I want to copy this I saw on Gateway using rare earth magnets.

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It is really simple. But like I said leave the trigger alone and try it first. And when you make the scratch on the shear . Remember don’t file to the line. Leave 2 or 3 millimeters and don’t scratch the surface on the side that you are filing or cutting. That top surface must be pristine. That’s the shear surface. I made a second line and filed to the second line. It would be better to just file away some and leave a little of the shear. It really makes a difference. I feel bad for the 4 h kid that has to complete with the kid whose dad knows how to do this .
 
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I want to modify the stock so I bought an old one from EBay . I am going to add the butt hook and I was going to make a cheek riser but with the peep sight I need to make one of those cheek wells. I taped everything off and began to look at it . I cannot add material because of the stain. All I can do is carve in and make a recess. I have no clue how. I am not a wood worker. I guess I need to try on a piece of practice wood scrap first. Any suggestions.


This is what I am thinking .

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I redid my trigger. I replaced the one I modified with the original and trimmed the shear better. Now the first stage is original and the second stage is cut in half. Everything is cleaned up debuted and lubed. I also added a small button head screw so it is like a bump to feel.

Should have the new sight tomorrow so tonight I want to shoot it a lot and get used to the trigger before I replace the sight. Trimming the shear down makes the trigger really nice. It’s still plastic on steal. So you don’t want to creep the trigger. Just a smooth deliberate squeeze. But it is pretty smooth for what it is.
 
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This trigger is so nice. It is the Rekord trigger of BB guns. Haha

This is the five shot groups I’m getting . It is a long trigger and I might cut it back some more. But just be smooth and it pops with a crisp shot and you have to be so mindful of follow through. It’s like pulling the trigger is the middle of the shot cycle .

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I did a bunch of sanding last night because the rear sight will be here and the butt hook are ment to be here today or tomorrow. The sight left Georgia three days ago. It went to each stop across the country till it got to DES MOINES. The next stop is Cedar Rapids then me.
But it drew the go back to Georgia card and is now back in Atlanta. So how did a package take four days to go from Atlanta to Des Moines but one day to go from Des Moines to Atlanta? Let’s see if it arrives today or next week.
At least the butt hook that has traveled from England will hopefully get here on time.

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I am still watching my rear sight travel the Midwest. It was ment to be here yesterday and it’s someplace around Chicago. The butt hook will probably be here by Monday and it is made for an Air Arms S400. So I will have to do some work to fit it to the Daisy 499. I spent this week removing the stain and dings from the stock I bought on E bay. It is a beech wood stock and after sanding it with 220 grit paper. The wood grain is really beautiful. I am not going to do any sort of cheek piece modifications because I know it will ruin the stock.
I am not a wood worker. But I have made enough mistakes trying to know my limitations. I can probably do a decent stain job. So after I fit the butt hook I will sand it with a 180-220-600.

Wipe it all down with alcohol so I don’t raise the grain with water then using an oil base stain I will rub in and remove a red chestnut oil base stain maybe two coats. After drying for 24 hours . Light rub with 0000 steel wool then two hand rubbed coats of Danish Oil with a 0000 steel wool rub between each one .

I read to use water base stain under oil finish. So the oil finish can get deeper into the surface of the wood. But I also read the water base will be blotchy and you can’t repair it after the danish oil is applied.

Does this all sound like a good plan? I really don’t want to mess this stock up.

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