Daisy Daisy 717 Pump Lever

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Gramps

Gramps

Member
Aug 31, 2023
132
109
Murphy, Mo
Recently purchased a Daisy 717 that arrived today. Unboxed it and oiled it real good. The pump leaver had no resistance at the lower end of the stroke when uncocked. It would pump air and shot but didn't sound like had excess power, to nasty out to crony it. Shot 9 rounds & it would pump up any more. Can in pushed the pellet out and then with the bolt open I pumped the pump handle several times. I then tried adjusting the pump leaver to get it between the 1 1/8'-1 1/2" as described in the manual. Turn it all the way clockwise or counterclockwise makes no difference. You can pull the arm out and if held right gravity will close it. Guess it;s going to need a little work.

BTW: I did let it warm up before I started messing with it in case the cold weather was an issue.
 
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the pistol will not compress air when the bolt is not pulled back, pushing it forward allows you to load a pellet or just dry fire it
if you charge the gun after pulling a bolt back and then take second go at it just releases the air and recharges the pistol a waste of time
the cocking arm is adjusted when the bolt has not been pulled back
as i read your post there seems to be some confusion

if it is shooting at a lower power the piston Oring and tube Oring should be changes
 
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the valve seal could be leaking or need a cleaning
the stem Oring could be leak but you are now in the area that problems start
the old valve stem seal and the new ones are a different shape, old ones are not available and the new ones do not play well with the old valve housing

much of the parts are drying up fast
so how do you find the leak
a large bowl of water and the barrel assembly held in with a punch the bubble will let you know
out the barrel bad valve
out the valve stem two Oring in there
out the tube at least the back side but you have already done the the two in the tube
it is case of chasing your tail

anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com

Daisy 717 Repair Part 3 Final

Wow, only four seals in the old gun and it almost made me bang my head against the wall. The joy of damaged pneumatics. Daisy got a new 71...
anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com
 
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marflow 777 that was a good article thanks for the link. Heard about lubing it up real good with Ford Alphabet org and letting ti sit for 24 hours. Figured didn't have much to loose I had ordered a seal kit, did this last night. Tonight I tried it and it pumped 1 stroke like it was designed. Tried a couple of times same outcome. Next test will it hold air? Pumped it let it sit 15 minutes & it shot. Let's try this again so this time I let it sit for maybe 20 minutes, it shot again. Fingers crossed it is fixed. I'm going to crony it again tomorrow and see how it compares to the 1st time.
 
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there are several ways to make the trigger better, one is simply take a little material of the sear engagement area and that is quicker then having to drill and tap and get to the same point but no more then .8-1mm
the trigger stop screw is a must and i have been using 2.5mm grub screws
now the plastic trigger could more than like be easy to get out but the pin is center splined and it cut the trigger hole at installation
now the 747 trigger is aluminum and when i built a 747 trigger group the force needed to pound that small pin in was eye opening, so to take it out might be the same and what damage is done could be bad
http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2010/01/daisy-717-trigger-refinement-part-2.html
http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2008/04/daisy-717-match-air-pistol-was-first.html

the trigger assembly can be worked on and tuned outside the gun, so you have the opportunity to watch how it works

good luck
 
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Last year I acquired six or seven, different models. Two 777, 3 I think of the 747, two 717 and one of the 22 cal models. A few went to my son and grandson, I did keep the 777 and a couple of the 747 models I found some rebuild/reseal kits on ebay which I liked. All new O Rings and a valve, and instead of a foam wiper each kit had a number of split teflon rings, much like the rings you would put in an auto engine,, 5 or 7 I think. The advantage to them is that they will not crumble like a foam ring, and being somewhat loosely fitting will hold a quite a bit of oil to wipe the inside of the compression cylinder for that O Ring. They seem to be working well after about 18 months.
 
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the foam one are cheap a felt one would last 20 years the Teflon i know little about but i own Teflon
i had the felt from a dryer repair
it is a good 1/8 thick and at 1 5/8 and 5 feet long i have enough for a thousand years
i tried to put a stitch or two in it to hold it but went with cutting at a long angle and a drop of super glue
there is a lot of ways to get to the same point foam, felt Teflon if it works who cares but my money is on the felt
 
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I can see where felt would work. I see two problems, finding a piece thick enough. Might make some rings out of an old hat, but even a couple of my 48 year old hats are still too nice to cut up, plus cutting it might not all that easy. I don't know, but it still might shed some particles that could eventually find their way to the valve. I know that was a problem with the foam as I found foam particles everywhere in the guns I rebuilt.
 
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Gramps said:
Uncrossed my fingers and took the 717 out for a shoot today. Average 345 on the crony for 5 shots. After that I shot another 80 rounds through it. Got some decent groups considering I suck at open sights. Tried several different pellets and so far it's liking the Daisy Flat Nose 7.8gr pellets the best. Be trying others in the near future.
Click to expand...
might want to try the Excite wadcutters , i find they work well in most of my low power guns
 
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