Tuning Daisy 717 rebuild help

No-it doesn't matter if the bolt is open or closed once you've pulled it back. Do you feel resistance when you close the pump arm? Will it pop again if you dry fire? Last thought-have you replaced or lubed the pump cup?

I can't offer any more advice as I've never torn mine down. Hopefully someone with more experience will chime in to help. Have you done any Google searches? Sometimes you get lucky that way.
 
You probably got 2 pellets stuck in the barrel. OR an oversized pellet like the Very crappy and oversized 7.9gr Crosman Premier Super Point or trying to shoot heavier than an 8 grain pellet without running through a Sizer.

Use a wooden or fiberglass dowel muzzle loader style cock the gun open bolt clear the barrel dry FIRE be sure it shoots blank fire small puff of air comes out of the barrel when shot without a pellet.

Run your heavy pellets through a .1785 Sizer otherwise it may get stuck like this.

Lube your pellets too to prevent further constipation you just witnessed.
 
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Did you replace the valve? or at least the valve o-ring and unwound the valve spring a little?

Also breech probe O-ring if yours has one.

What does the chrony average with 7.0gr pellets?

They normally shoot slow like 350fps if you aren't using oversized pellets and ideal 7.4gr Crosman Pointed.

If you are trying to shoot pellets heavier than 8.0 grains there may be your problem as well if you don't run them through a 0.1785 Sizer first before shooting.

http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2009/12/daisy-717-repair-part-1.html?m=1


 
Did you adjust the piston? You check it by laying it on it's right side and and lift the side lever and measure the end of the lever to the side of the gun. I usually set mine about an 11/8"- 1 1/2" I think, it's been awhile. Less distance lower the power. This is done using a screwdriver on the little wheel with notches init under the lever. it raise or lowers the power level by changing the length of the piston travel on the compression stroke. 
 
I replaced the valve and O rings on my vintage 717 to fox an air leak. Upon putting the gun back together with new parts the leak was worse than before. I spoke to onw of the members of my club who recommended lubricating the seals and valve with Ford automatic transmission fluid. I thought it was BS but I tried it anyway. Lo and behold, it works like a charm.
 
I got it to shoot pellets but very weak. I think I need more pressure.
The 717 is a 10 meter air pistol . Its made to have just enough power to get to 10 meters and pass through paper with same hole accuracy . I think its in the 400 fps range . Its a great starter gun for the 10 meter sport .

If you are not going to get into the sport the gun was made for it still makes for a good plunking tin cans or the green army men out to about 20 yards .

I've had mine since they first came out back in the early 80 . I won 2 gold metals in the Blue Grass games 2 years in a row with this gun back in the mid 80's . I've been hooked ever since then . It still works and shoots great after 40 years of shooting and only a few o-ring replacements.

When I bought the gun new it was going for around 70 dollars but when I cocked it in the store and dry fired it,it don't hold air so the owner sold it to me for 40 dollars . I put new seals in it and it was ready for me to start practicing .It took me about 6 months to get over the sore arm muscles and able to keep the pellets in the 8 or better rings .

Once I could do that I felt at least I wouldn't get laughed at by other shooters at the Games. I had no idea I was good enough to win .I beat a guy with a single pump 800 dollar gun 2 years in a row . He got so mad that my cheap Daisy 717 out shot his German gun he wanted the officials to check my guns trigger pull weight . The official pulled the trigger and laughed and handed it to the guy for him to pull and he know it was no where near the 500 grain he had his set at . As far as I know its a non adjustable trigger but at the time I thought it was pretty light compared to other air gun trigger pulls so I guess I just got use to it .

The 717's are going for around 150.00 dollars now and they are only going up in price . If you still have it hold on to it ,someone in your family might want to get into the 10 meter sport . The p17 right now on airgun depot is on sale for 45 dollars and its only going to get cheaper because its not a 10 meter competition grade gun . If you know about the history of 10 meter air pistol you will see that any of the guns used in the past for this sport is going up in value every year . Even the old spring powered are sky high .

Get yourselves a tin of flat pellets and some 10 meter targets . Get back 10 meters . Use a camera tripod and rest the gun on it . Turn to the side and rest the gun on the top of the tripod using only one hand . Adjust the rear sight till you are hitting the 10 ring . Then get rid of the tripod and see where the pellets are landing with no help from the tripod rest still only using one hand . Keep shooting till you can get 10 shots all in the black . By that time you might get addicted to the sport .
 
The 717 can easily shoot as powerfully as the P17 but it requires the piston head to be set up to dead head against the bulkhead which contains the valve.
This is easily achieved but very few know how to do this correctly and are happily shooting guns where the piston head has clearance ahead of the piston seal face and the bulkhead....which equals wasted dead space. Max pressure achieved with minimum, or zero gap.

Essentially, the pump head is adjustable. It takes a bit of fiddling but not difficult.
Open the lever and have the open cocking slot facing you.
Loosen the locking nut and wind the piston head up until it just nudges the bulkhead.
Now lock the nut..
Lubricate with SIlicone oil ....there are better lubes but not better sealing ones..
This will give you 385-390 fps with 8 grain pellets provided seals are in good order...
Get to this point first then I'll show you how to gain a further 15 fps
 
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