Seneca/Sam Yang Desperate need of an effective arrow target that my .45 909 won't blow through

I'm trying so hard to dial in my Sam Yang 909 with arrows, but I cannot keep the arrows from being destroyed or lost. I have the best Yellow Jacket compound/crossbow target that I can buy and the bolts still either blow all of the way through or go so deep that the only thing stopping them is the fletching on the exit side. This afternoon I made three shots on target; one went through to the fletching on the opposite side (all fletching tore off when extracted), one went all of the way through and was recovered, albeit damaged (bent tip...replaceable), and the third blew through and was lost. $40.00 in arrows and a bent tip for three shots. Brutal.

I DID pull a chrony out today with the arrows, which was a first. I clocked shots two and three (@ 2600 and 2200 psi respectively) The first shot was at 407 fps and the second was at 424. All were shot on half power.

I can't keep doing this. Three years ago, I started down the arrow path and similarly lost bolts. I shelved it for a while but recently wanted to explore it again. I thought I had stepped up my game to prevent that, but apparently, I have a way to go to get better results. I can't afford to keep fumbling around and spending hundreds on arrows for a dozen shots. Any suggestions on how to stop the bolts while still maintaining arrow integrity?
 
Have you tried using used plastic wrap? The stuff they use to wrap palletized boxes? Just stuff/ pack it tightly in a cardboard box. I shoot a PSE 2010 Omen, 400 gr. 29.5" carbon arrow with field points, going about 300fps. It stops them about half way. The only thing I need to do is wipe the shaft down with a cloth as the friction leaves, burnished residue in the shaft. Normally they pull out really easy. You can also try and inquire on Archerytalk.com to see if they have any suggestions or recommendations as well
 
these are the only ones that stop the 909s air bolts for me
they go 6-8" in and STOP, easy removal. I sent several all the way through my 450fps yellow jacket bag before getting this one!
 
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Thanks, RM.5, Wimp, and everyone else! That's EXACTLY what I was looking for. I had never chrony'd my 909 up until now and the speed outdoes my Yellow Jacket YJ-425. If I had done a bit more research a couple of years ago (and been more willing to spend the extra money) I would have purchased the pricier/stronger target.

The other little tidbits in here (i.e. the horse mat) might be a nice 'in addition to' but the reality is that I need a big boy target and I appreciate the first-hand experience on which products work.

No 'one' of us knows more than all of us.
 
Try BullDog Targets. These targets will stop any arrow with a fieldtip, no broadheads and easy two finger removal. Lifetime warranty.
 
Thinking imadman means the same thing I do.
Used pallet (industrial) shrink wrap STUFFED , like a trash compactor filled. Take entire bag out and shoot. Will stop a .45acp and I know from experience it will stop air bolts, also they pull out with 2 fingers. I have seen someone stuff the heck out of a bulap stack also with good success. In the sack when it got thin he just steeped all over it & reused.

John
 
I’ve had lots of luck with shooting old motorcycle jackets packed in pallet wrapped boxes.
The combo of non Newtonian principled armor, aramids, and plastic wrap preserved the bolts by basically providing a multi density random energy dispersion model.

But it was a fun fundraiser that I would do at open houses back in my dealership days.

Below is my most favorite set up that withstood and preserved some pretty intense efforts.


BMW motorrad makes a piece of NP armor called a back protector. It is made from the concept of a non Newtonian fluid.
Buy a few of them. They aren’t prohibitively expensive.


Next, Get some ballistic nylon and layer it in front of the NP armor. Pick a ballistic nylon with a high denier strength.

Layer the NP armor randomly with the ballistic nylon and stuff it into a box.

Alternatively, if you have friends with old nylon motorcycle jackets take them off their hands. But the NP back protector is essential.

and the final very important step to get some more life out of it, finish the set up by wrapping it in real plastic wrap (like you shrink wrap a pallet in) wrap it up really well. But too many layers and you will likely have to cut your bolts out and rewrap pretty often.

Added picture is the bmw NP armor. The warmer it is, the more pliable to pull your bolts from - material is hydrophobic so long slow steady movements to remove anything. It doesn’t weep or drip upon puncture but it will shatter if frozen!

IMG_5538.jpeg
 
So, the 24" Spyderweb target is as good as advertised. It stops my bolts cleanly and efficiently. It allowed me to shoot some groups through the chrony and watch both the accuracy and the speed. First time I've ever been able to shoot a group at a target.

Filled to about 2600 psi and did two 3-shot strings without refilling. After the six shots, the air dropped to @ 2100 psi. I did not tether nor use the regulator as it doesn't seem to be necessary. Shots are very consistent from 426fps to 431fps. The best grouping was the last three shots with lower air pressure, and those were also the faster ones.

All shots taken at 40 yards with 100 gr. field tip and using 1/2 power. I'm curious if 125 gr. tips will increase or decrease accuracy. Next session I'll do a comparison and post it.

40yards2.jpeg


40yards1.jpeg
 
So, the 24" Spyderweb target is as good as advertised. It stops my bolts cleanly and efficiently. It allowed me to shoot some groups through the chrony and watch both the accuracy and the speed. First time I've ever been able to shoot a group at a target.

Filled to about 2600 psi and did two 3-shot strings without refilling. After the six shots, the air dropped to @ 2100 psi. I did not tether nor use the regulator as it doesn't seem to be necessary. Shots are very consistent from 426fps to 431fps. The best grouping was the last three shots with lower air pressure, and those were also the faster ones.

All shots taken at 40 yards with 100 gr. field tip and using 1/2 power. I'm curious if 125 gr. tips will increase or decrease accuracy. Next session I'll do a comparison and post it.

View attachment 482577

View attachment 482578
@Steelhead707 Those look like field point holes. How is it removing hem from that target? Any difficulty. I would have made a suggestion, but I haven't shot air bolts that large or from that gun. I use a Hurricane Cat 5 bag target for field points. I'm not endorsing the vendor below, only the bag. Sometimes it can be difficult to pull filed points from this bag, but I haven't had one blow through.


It stopped 375 grain bolts/field points travel g 405 - 445 fps with no problem.
See post #s 57 and 64. https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/35-air-bolts-for-the-357-benjamin-bulldog.1271564/page-3
Stopping broadheads is entirely different. I wouldn't even tear up my bag like that. When you find something that does that well with broadheads, please let us know.
 
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To summarize and helps others, using a 450 fps and lower-rated target WILL NOT WORK. If penetration goes to the fletching, it's over and you can take another $25 and throw it away. Speculating on what COULD work or what MIGHT work is expensive and time consuming.

I can verify that the Spyderweb is suitable and does the job. Not cheap, but this hobby is not built for those who pinch pennies. Guns. crossbows, etc. that generate that kind of speed and power are expensive. Once you pass the $1000 threshold and keep climbing, why 'fight' using subpar or homemade (i.e. you do all of the r&d on your own budget and time) contraptions. If one can afford the gun and the arrows, he/she can certainly afford a suitable target. My advice is save your money and buy the RIGHT one, and not end up with 2 or 3 that don't work before you have to buy the right one.

As far as pulling them out of the target, it's a bit difficult but that's because I have a 'gap' between the field point and the shaft that hangs up a bit. But considering what I went through before I can manage that or put some on electrical tape or something to soften the 'barb' on the lip of the shaft.

I would LOVE to shoot actual broadheads at some point, but I'll have to do a LOT of research to find a foam block that can handle the force. For now, I have enough to 'worry' about just fine tuning my groups using tip weight and air. Once I have total confidence in that arena, I'll expand out to practicing with broadheads. For now, I'm just thrilled to be able to have a target that I can actually use.
 
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