Air Arms Detuning AA TX200 MK3. Which route should I go?

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cgriff20

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Apr 26, 2017
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WI, United States
I have a TX200 that I'm thinking about detuning. The gun just seems really twangy and somewhat hold sensitive out of the box. I'm really interested in dropping the energy to 12 FPE. Im using the gun to shoot squirrels/small rabbits and small birds out to 40 yards max. Most shots are 25 yards or less. I'm much more concerned with accuracy than power. From the research I've done, ive kind of narrowed it down to 4 options: 

1. Cut the original spring. I think I could do this, but I don't know if it would help. I also worry that there won't be enough preload after cutting. 

2. Vortek 12 FPE kit. Seems like there are mixed reviews on power output of this kit. 

3. TBT short stroke kit. This idea seems like a good idea to me, but I haven't found a lot of reviews on this kit. I like the idea of short stroking if it will make the gun less hold sensitive.

4. Tony Leach kit? I can't find where to buy these. 

What route would you go? 
 
I detuned my TX200 and went with the TbT short stroke kit. I am very happy with the kit, particularly because I like a snappier shot cycle, which the short stroke kit provides. It is consistent, easy to install, and improved my shooting experience.

However, I will say, the Tony Leach kits are the bees knees. They transform the gun. Read NitroCrushr's threads on them. But, they are about twice as expensive as the TbT kit and other options. To buy them you need to reach out to TL on Facebook via his group Lost Volume.

Your cheapest option would be to just get a 12 fpe TX200 spring from PA and slap it in there. Your lock time would be longer, but it'd be detuned.

Personally I'd go with TbT or Tony Leach...


 
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I have had all the kits you mention and the Tony Leach kit is, in my mind, the winner by a long shot. I got the complete drop in, including the compression tube with 40mm transfer port.

Tony L. Kit copy.1646411525.jpg

 
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I have the Tony Leach 21mm sleeved kit in my TX. The sleeve kit is about $100 cheaper than the kit with the comp tube. I tried the Vortex kit and didn't like it. Shot cycle was too harsh for me but then again it was the SHO version. If you go the Vortex route don't expect too much in the way of responses to email questions. I tried a couple of times without success. Tony on the other hand was extremely helpful.


 
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If you need 12 fpe then go for it, but ifvyour hunting why drop the power. With a fine tune you can get your fac to shoot just about as well !! I know as I have done it many times. My current TX mk3 will shoot with the best, sub 3/4" groups at 50yd and sub one inch at 75 yds. Shot cycle is quite smooth...the gun needs to be fine tuned to the weight of pellet. In other words you add or subtract shims or weights in front of or behind the spring to change the shot cycle. The TX is one of only a few springers that this works well. When people shoot my fac rifle they think it is a 12 fpe version. And I am using all the stock parts, spring, piston and seal. Suit yourself, it is your rifle, but if your rifle is twangy and has a rough shot cycle, it can easily be corrected with a little time and effort. Kits are great if you need new parts, but even the best kit can be refined to shoot much better..
 
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For 8 years and 35,000 shots I shot FT with my TX at 15.6fpe.

It started slowing down and I ordered the AA factory rebuild kit from PA.

While stock, Motörhead had put one of his DELRIN spring followers in it.

I put that follower in with the new kit.

It shoots exactly 12fpe with no twang, or any other movement at all.

If I shoot off of the bags I can put a pellet on the vertical adjustment knob and when firing, the pellet does not move.

I know using exotic parts and kits are all the rage but the rifle was designed and built in England to shoot at 12fpe and the kit does exactly that.

But, IMHO they are not needed…
 
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For 8 years and 35,000 shots I shot FT with my TX at 15.6fpe.

It started slowing down and I ordered the AA factory rebuild kit from PA.

While stock, Motörhead had put one of his DELRIN spring followers in it.

I put that follower in with the new kit.

It shoots exactly 12fpe with no twang, or any other movement at all.

If I shoot off of the bags I can put a pellet on the vertical adjustment knob and when firing, the pellet does not move.

I know using exotic parts and kits are all the rage but the rifle was designed and built in England to shoot at 12fpe and the kit does exactly that.

But, IMHO they are not needed…
Click to expand...

What's a "spring follower"?

The MK1 was designed to shoot at 12fpe.....the current MK3 has the stroke lengthened to specifically work better with FAC power levels. 
 
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There are two GOOD ways to make the TX best at sub 12ft/lbs. 

1) Short stroke kit, to return the stroke length to the original stroke when the rifle was developed (or actually copied directly from the Weihrauch HW77). The only "correct" way to do this is with a longer latch rod. I don't know where to get one these days. The piston head extensions add unwanted weight to the piston and an extra failure point. No really good way to attach one. 

2) The Tony Leach kit. These shoot wonderful, but they are fairly finicky for getting the power up just right. They maximize efficiency, and little things such as pellet fit can affect the power output. I feel this is the best shooting option by a good margin. 



Simply dropping in a weaker spring will certainly work. But, I found the shot cycle to be sluggish and lumpy feeling and with a noticeably longer lock time. The piston still moves the same distance, it just does it slower. It will still be accurate simply due to the mass of the rifle. But it is much more pleasant getting the stroke down where it should be.
 
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350.00 kit? Not for me. For 225.00 John Thomas turned my new TX200 to 12fpe and did the trigger to 8 oz super crisp. Shoots 25 yd groups indoors during the current winter months regularly from ..2 down into the zeros. Why not have a pro do it so you know it's done right? When I shoot I want to know the gun is as good as it can be....Its up to me to steer it correctly. Same with my centerfire benchrest rifles.
 
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Thank you all for the responses. I think I have narrowed it down to either the vortek 12 fpe kit, or the TBT kit. It seems that the tony leach option is the best, but I just don't want to spend that much. Has anyone ever ordered from the TBT website? Their prices are in pounds, and I'm in the US. I just don't know how that would work and how long it would take to ship. I have an email out to them but no response so far. Otherwise, has anybody had and experience with the vortek 12 fpe kit? I put a vortek SHO kit in my HW95, and it was a disaster. It cocked very rough and there was some serious metal on metal grinding. I'm hoping with a different gun and the lower power kit, that might change. 
 
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If you need 12 fpe then go for it, but ifvyour hunting why drop the power. With a fine tune you can get your fac to shoot just about as well !! I know as I have done it many times. My current TX mk3 will shoot with the best, sub 3/4" groups at 50yd and sub one inch at 75 yds. Shot cycle is quite smooth...the gun needs to be fine tuned to the weight of pellet. In other words you add or subtract shims or weights in front of or behind the spring to change the shot cycle. The TX is one of only a few springers that this works well. When people shoot my fac rifle they think it is a 12 fpe version. And I am using all the stock parts, spring, piston and seal. Suit yourself, it is your rifle, but if your rifle is twangy and has a rough shot cycle, it can easily be corrected with a little time and effort. Kits are great if you need new parts, but even the best kit can be refined to shoot much better..
Click to expand...

I think I'm pretty set on dropping to 12 FPE. I shoot mostly in my basement and at squirrels out to 25 yards. I'm sure somebody experienced like you can figure out how to smooth the shot cycle out at full power, but I'm not really looking to experiment a bunch if I don't have to. Thank you for the help though. 
 
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If I had a TX, I'd buy this: 

https://www.trrobb.com/Air_Arms_TX_200_Adjustable_SS_Piston_Rod/p1449438_15556653.aspx

And shorten the stroke about 12mm. 

Click to expand...

That looks really interesting.
Click to expand...

Heck yea, that would be the best way to go as far as cost vs. performance goes. Didnt even know those were availiable, back in the day when I was still in the shop, I made my own. I have to agree with Thumper, just using a shorter spring and slowing the shot cycle can make it more difficult to shoot accurately. A long shot cycle requires a much better trigger break and follow thru as the longer shot cycle can enhance any error the shooter makes!!
 
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If I had a TX, I'd buy this: 

https://www.trrobb.com/Air_Arms_TX_200_Adjustable_SS_Piston_Rod/p1449438_15556653.aspx

And shorten the stroke about 12mm. 

Click to expand...

That looks really interesting.
Click to expand...

Heck yea, that would be the best way to go as far as cost vs. performance goes. Didnt even know those were availiable, back in the day when I was still in the shop, I made my own. I have to agree with Thumper, just using a shorter spring and slowing the shot cycle can make it more difficult to shoot accurately. A long shot cycle requires a much better trigger break and follow thru as the longer shot cycle can enhance any error the shooter makes!!
Click to expand...

Would you recommend just using the factory fac spring that came with my gun?
 
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