Diana Diana 34 T01 Tune Kit Recommendations

My 1998 Diana 34 T01 is coming along. My next question is about tuning kits. I’m completely new to this hobby so I’m still learning. I’ve read serval posts about “tuning kits“. It is my understanding that these kits reduce the “twang” of stock springs and improve the FPS consistency, resulting in smoother more consistent shots. Can I get your advice on which tuning kit to buy?

Also, what would be the advantages to sending my gun to a professional tuner instead? How much would that cost?

Thanks,

Jeff
 
To me, the biggest advantage to quality aftermarket springs is their longevity: app. three to six times that of factory springs. Even with consumables, replacing parts and then breaking them in (a neccessity in every case) gets old pretty fast.

Many people feel the factory D34's (and many other guns) are oversprung, meaning the mainsprings used are unneccessarily strong / long / harsh, producing an aggressive shot cycle. Some aftermarket springs / kits, especially Maccari, are appreciably smoother, and easier to cock, as well.

Tuning kit guides fit the mainspring much better than factory guides, reducing or eliminating twang, buzz and other mechanical noise. This is a bit like learning to appreciate fine coffee / whisky / whathaveyou, in that once you get used to a high quality product, the lower quality stuff, which you used to be perfectly happy with, is now just terrible. So, it's a mixed blessing. The twang / buzz doesn't make a gun inaccurate, after all.

I don't buy kits, but I do buy aftermarket parts. My 1988 T01 D34 has a cut Titan #3 mainspring now, which fit a factory rear guide perfectly, and yielded optimal velocities for a .177 cal field gun. These days, I only use Titan springs, as they are the most predictable, dependable and durable springs around. Titan does not make kits, however. Some British companies offer kits that utilize the Titans, though.

Beware that the older T01 guns often have a shorter "compression space" for the mainspring + guides than the present-day T06 guns. Some products made for the newer guns will not fit your older gun, without cutting the mainspring some. Been there.

Most people in the U.S. use either Maccari or Vortek kits in their guns. I have used Maccari springs but no kits, and I have not used Vortek kits or springs, so I'll leave recommendations on those to people who have. Both have their pro's and con's, and their fans.

Sending the gun to a reputable tuner saves you of all the potential headaches stemming from disassembly, parts fit (see above) etc., but it's not only about convenience. Most tuners have a bag o' tricks that make the gun a little bit better to shoot here and there, and the cumulative end result is an enhanced gun that a mere kit installation wouldn't yield. For an older gun, the cost may easily exceed the gun's value, but many people find it worth it, anyway.
 
Definitely much more gratifying to tune yourself but will definitely need a spring compressor for the job! I just did my old model 38 not to long ago with ARH spring and guide and decided to try a piston seal from Vortek and it's shooting wonderful.
But if you're not comfortable doing it your self I would recommend Motorhead from the forum here for the job!
 
I've got a Diana 36 .177 T01 with a AIR RIFLE HEADQUARTERS Old School kit, a T05 36 .177 with ARH GRT kit, a 34 .22 with Vortek HO kit and a 38 .22 with a Vortek kit with a coil cut off as its a short compression tube model. All have Vortek piston seals. You can't go wrong with either spring kits, all are simple drop in replacements. Go easy on the lubrication. The Old School ARH kit is the easiest to cock.
 
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Is this the “old school” kit you are referring to?

I noticed my D34 has a a grinding sound as I approach the final 1/3 of the cocking stroke. Is that normal? I also noticed my main spring is bone dry. Should I try lubing my existing components before buying a tune kit?
 
Is this the “old school” kit you are referring to?

I noticed my D34 has a a grinding sound as I approach the final 1/3 of the cocking stroke. Is that normal? I also noticed my main spring is bone dry. Should I try lubing my existing components before buying a tune kit?
That is the kit I was calling his Old School kit. Its not high power, but is a sweet shot cycle.
You certainly could try lubricating. If it clears up, great. It could just need a cleaning and light lubing. But, it could be a broken piston spring. They're not hard to disassemble if your mechanically minded, but I recommend a spring compressor as there is some preload on the spring.
 
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That is the kit I was calling his Old School kit. Its not high power, but is a sweet shot cycle.
You certainly could try lubricating. If it clears up, great. It could just need a cleaning and light lubing. But, it could be a broken piston spring. They're not hard to disassemble if your mechanically minded, but I recommend a spring compressor as there is some preload on the spring.
Are there any tuner shops in Minnesota or the Midwest?
 
To me, the biggest advantage to quality aftermarket springs is their longevity: app. three to six times that of factory springs. Even with consumables, replacing parts and then breaking them in (a neccessity in every case) gets old pretty fast.

Many people feel the factory D34's (and many other guns) are oversprung, meaning the mainsprings used are unneccessarily strong / long / harsh, producing an aggressive shot cycle. Some aftermarket springs / kits, especially Maccari, are appreciably smoother, and easier to cock, as well.

Tuning kit guides fit the mainspring much better than factory guides, reducing or eliminating twang, buzz and other mechanical noise. This is a bit like learning to appreciate fine coffee / whisky / whathaveyou, in that once you get used to a high quality product, the lower quality stuff, which you used to be perfectly happy with, is now just terrible. So, it's a mixed blessing. The twang / buzz doesn't make a gun inaccurate, after all.

I don't buy kits, but I do buy aftermarket parts. My 1988 T01 D34 has a cut Titan #3 mainspring now, which fit a factory rear guide perfectly, and yielded optimal velocities for a .177 cal field gun. These days, I only use Titan springs, as they are the most predictable, dependable and durable springs around. Titan does not make kits, however. Some British companies offer kits that utilize the Titans, though.

Beware that the older T01 guns often have a shorter "compression space" for the mainspring + guides than the present-day T06 guns. Some products made for the newer guns will not fit your older gun, without cutting the mainspring some. Been there.

Most people in the U.S. use either Maccari or Vortek kits in their guns. I have used Maccari springs but no kits, and I have not used Vortek kits or springs, so I'll leave recommendations on those to people who have. Both have their pro's and con's, and their fans.

Sending the gun to a reputable tuner saves you of all the potential headaches stemming from disassembly, parts fit (see above) etc., but it's not only about convenience. Most tuners have a bag o' tricks that make the gun a little bit better to shoot here and there, and the cumulative end result is an enhanced gun that a mere kit installation wouldn't yield. For an older gun, the cost may easily exceed the gun's value, but many people find it worth it, anyway.
In my opinion this is best response for this most common question I've ever read. It's concise, complete and pragmatic. I needed to do more than just "like" it. Good job Duke.

Ron
 
I'd highly recommend the ARH kits. As I understand it, the Vortek seals are prefered. It's pretty much a drop in kit so it's relatively simple to install. A spring compressor is advisable. Here's a link to a video on my channel that details the procedure.

Part one:

Part two:
I found those videos last night. They are SUPER helpful. Are you the Pellets & Pistons host?

It sounds like the seals are not part of the tuning kit? Is that right?
 
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I agree with most here, the 34s are oversprung from the factory. A good spring and seal from vortek or arh will get you where you need to be. I take 4-6 coils off of the factory spring, snug up the spring guide, do the plastic in the piston trick and go sparingly on the lubes. Lotsa sharp edges in the cylinder so either debur some and take care when putting the new sealed piston in. I get all i can from the factory springs before i kit them. I used to have a guy that kitted a bunch that never got shot stock and he would sell me the stock springs and seals. Can't have to many i say, good luck and once you do it, it will be easier each time around.
 
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I found those videos last night. They are SUPER helpful. Are you the Pellets & Pistons host?

It sounds like the seals are not part of the tuning kit? Is that right?
Yes, that's me. My name's Kevin. I'm glad that you found the vids helpful. The piston and breech seals must be ordered separately.
 
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I like to throw in a couple of extra seals .. so if you got to fit and take too much off or something like nick it or whatever goof could happen you got 2 more right there handy .. reordering a seal and pay the shipping suks ... You know you can always take off a bit from a seal but you can't put it back on ..lol..🥴

Anyway it's nice to have seals handy as needed not wishing you did ..