!! Total cost for both CP2's including shipping to the states, is a little over $262, as you get a slight discount on shipping costs over purchasing just one unit . So, about $131 per each CP2. That's pretty darn good, that is less than a Chaser kit, AND the moderator is "loose packed" (can swap/install easily on either barrel, NO red loctite to deal with) AND you get TWO magazines included with each CP2. (NONE are included w/the Diana Chaser) Now, that's what I call a SWEET deal! Should have them both in hand early next week, I'll report back then. Of course, I will have to try them BOTH out to make sure they are shooting properly you see..... . The Hawke--while not cheap by any means, seems a more reasonable choice. Open to any and all advice, though, on a 2-3 min dot size unit that would work satisfactorily on these pistols. I KNOW the Sig is pretty decent, no problems from mine at all. Might just get another Sig if the Hawke 12-106 is not well-approved here by the brethren. I have heard the Sig has sold for as little as $69 recently. I'll get details if anyone else is interested. A friend just got a couple of the Sigs.) that I ordered from Krale.shop are supposed to be here today (Monday). Hopefully they arrive in good condition, all the way from the Netherlands no less. Three days later they are HERE in the states. I'll report back after I have given them a thorough check-out.Marflow777 and others--- Thinking about the Hawke model 12-106 red dot, the one that mounts directly to the 9-11mm dovetail on the Chaser/Airbug/Artemis CP2 and the like... Reviews are mixed on these, so asking HERE if any members have first-hand experience with these. I have a Sig Romeo5 on my Airbug, but you need an adapter to install it. I do like the idea of the direct-to-dovetail mounting of the Hawke, no adapter needed. It will be going on my brother's new CP2. He really prefers a "tube-style" red dot like the Ultra-Dot, but geez the UD folks are quite proud of those ($200++). Seems silly to spend MORE on the red dot than the entire CP2 pistol/rifle kit cost
As an aside, the two CP2's (one for ME, one for HE {my brother} that is
. That's about as far as I got yesterday. For Marflow777-- both of the CP2's triggers do NOT have the "front" adjustment screw, so I believe it is safe to conclude THAT feature is exclusive to the Diana DIT trigger used on the Chaser/Airbug. May be why the CP2 is cheaper as well, one less feature to incorporate into the build? Another curiousity is the material used for the two o-rings on the barrel tenons. Artemis uses an opaque, whitish colored o-ring. Seems like these have a "tougher" durometer rating as well. Don't know exactly WHAT this o-ring material is, that Artemis is using here, but would sure like to find out. It's very easy to damage the "normal" Buna-N orings when swapping barrels out. Also, these o-rings appear to be 1mm CS, NOT 0.8mm CS like the Diana Chaser/Airbug uses. Hhhmmnn..... 1- No Mike, I mean the FRONT trigger screw is still there, what "they" did was drill/tap the hole for it from the (3)TOPSIDE of the trigger. The hole does NOT extend down through the trigger bow. So, to adjust it (the "front" screw), you have to remove the action from the stock, and then the trigger bow itself, to get TO it. I think, if one really WANTED to, you could remove that screw, vice up the trigger in a drill press using that hole as a guide (for proper angle) to drill completely through the trigger bow (from the top of the trigger), then "through" tap it, and then insert a suitable screw from the BOTTOM side, the same as the Diana DIT trigger shoe. You would then also have to cut a slot in the trigger guard for access as well. That's a LOT of work though, MUCH easier to simply adjust it from the TOPSIDE of the trigger. This DOES require removal of the trigger pin/trigger to access and adjust that screw though. So, adjust the screw, reinstall trigger, TRY it, lather-rinse-repeat until satisfied with the setting. But no big deal to do so. The "rear" trigger screw (it's there) can be adjusted by that same process as well. All this is clear as mud, right? Sorry for my crappy writing. I'll get a pic up later of the trigger so it will be clear(er) I hope. One more thing--as you mentioned, (2) the rear trigger adjust screw may need to be changed to a slightly longer one to get enough adjustment "range".
The safety tension grub screw can be used in that manner on the CP2 by screwing it CCW whatever amount is needed to increase the 1st stage travel (initial sear lever movement). At the same time, this reduces the 2nd stage travel. That's pretty much how the CP2 trigger is set up. It's kind of a balancing act, because one adjustment affects the other. If you need more 1st stage adjustment, a slightly longer screw may be required, in order to maintain adequate tension on the safety "button". Hope that makes sense.
Mike, indeed you DID (everything, that is)! I like your idea about the allen key "piece" in the safety tension grub screw. I may try that just for s&g's. I'm wondering, though, if Snowpeak would sell us the longer sear lever used in the DIT? I'm gonna contact them and see. If one could obtain that lever, all you would have to do is drill/tap the trigger bow for that 3rd (front) screw. Easy enough to do viced up in a drill press. And presto, a Diana DIT trigger in the Artemis CP2. Now that would be pretty cool.
Mike, kinda agree with you on the "stupidity" thing. It's really not clear why Snowpeak assembles the Artemis with that shorter sear lever/2-screw trigger. Maybe it's a "Diana" brand only thing with the DIT trigger? I made some inquiries regarding possibly obtaining the Diana (longer) sear lever and a 3-screw trigger, but was turned down (albeit nicely) by the "first" source. I still have high hopes of obtaining same from a "second" source though, we shall see. In the meantime, I was thinking about your idea of using the safety button grub screw as a 1st stage TRIGGER adjustment screw. What I ended up doing was REVERSING that grub screw, such that the flat "allen" head side was DOWN, but still providing the needed spring tension on the safety button. I was able to thread the grub screw into the trigger a couple threads (plenty) by hand, no allen wrench necessary. A bonus is the safety button now works very nicely as well, a bit less tension on it you see... and just fine with me. Now, being how the OTHER end of that grub screw is nicely shaped, and is now pointing UP towards the sear lever, it now glides on the sear lever very nicely as you "work" the trigger. A little adjustment/tweaking on that screw, AND the existing REAR trigger adjustment screw, and presto, a VERY nicely breaking/crisp trigger pull on my Artemis CP2. Satisfied with my adjustments, I went back and put a tiny drop of "purple" LocTite on the exposed threads of both adjustment screws, my thinking is that a sufficient amount will "wick" into the threads and thereby hold my adjustments. Very happy with the CP2's trigger pull/break at this point. Please note, I don't recommend anyone use the technique described above, especially if you are NOT experienced working on triggers, and/or don't have a firm understanding of how this trigger functions.
Mike, no need to bring the Lawyers into this discussion
. The trigger now has a nice smooth 1st stage right up to the "wall" (beginning of the 2nd stage). A bit of added pressure (you're on the 2nd stage now), and then a nice clean, crisp break. Really happy how it turned out. Sometimes it's the simplest things, like "reversing" the safety button grub screw, that can yield significant benefits. This kind of thing does not happen too often though. I will also have to work on/add your trigger stop idea, adding a "stop" to this CP2 trigger will be like icing the cake! Thanks for all your ideas, pics, etc on making these triggers as good as they can be. In this case, perhaps we HAVE made a silk purse out of a sow's ear.