N/A Diana Chaser/Artemis CP2 Comparisons

marflow777--- Well, I will have my own "first hand" inspection of the Artemis CP2 trigger in a few days. Backstory-- Earlier today, I was showing my kid brother the Diana Chaser pistol/rifle kit I recently purchased, and had him try it out with the pistol barrel and moderator installed. He liked it a LOT! He was having SO much fun with it shooting at empty beer cans I could hardly pry it back out of his hands! "WE" decided he really needed one of his own, so I was on the Krale website this evening ordering him his very own ArtemisCP2. Then I thought to myself, SELF, why not get another for yourself as well? My thought was to leave my existing Chaser set up as a pistol w/moderator, and the Artemis CP2 setup as a rifle w/moderator. How cool is THAT? Well, VERY COOL of course:cool::cool:!! Total cost for both CP2's including shipping to the states, is a little over $262, as you get a slight discount on shipping costs over purchasing just one unit . So, about $131 per each CP2. That's pretty darn good, that is less than a Chaser kit, AND the moderator is "loose packed" (can swap/install easily on either barrel, NO red loctite to deal with) AND you get TWO magazines included with each CP2. (NONE are included w/the Diana Chaser) Now, that's what I call a SWEET deal! Should have them both in hand early next week, I'll report back then. Of course, I will have to try them BOTH out to make sure they are shooting properly you see....:);):).
 
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okay

you are now in the rabbit hole
if i can be am help message me
i have two .25 barrels to finish up for one of my pistols
i have a bad habit if i need one i buy 3 LOL

I was thinking I was just dipping my foot into it, but upon reflection, I guess its TRUE. I'm afraid I HAVE fallen into that darn Rabbit Hole, and it may be too late to dig myself out! But I'm not in as deep as YOU though ("need one I buy THREE!!), that's pretty bad----your are in there pretty deep my friend. Hey, it's all in good fun. I just hope these CP2's are both OK and shoot well when they get here to the good 'ole USA. Now I gotta come up with a red dot for my brother, he wants a "tube" style like an UltraDot (it's what he's used to...). I told him that's overkill on a $130 pistol, the darn UD will cost more than that, and you still need a ring set most likely! Any suggestions, anyone, on a decent tube-style red dot? The rabbit hole just keeps getting deeper....
 
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yes Ultra Dot sights might be a bit expensive, but they are nice i have a couple and they are hard to find cheap used on Ebay
Hawke makes and 30mm red dot for dovetail mount the would fit on the back side
https://us.hawkeoptics.com/red-dot-sights.html
now on the 2 custom Chasers i made up have a bridge M-Lok mount using one barrel screw hole and a barrel band so you can mount a scope or anything forward
also, i have seen these mounts on Ebay that should work on the 12mm barrel and keep the breech clean
https://www.ebay.com/itm/115692533586
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chaser m 1 (1) - Copy.jpg
 
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Marflow777 and others--- Thinking about the Hawke model 12-106 red dot, the one that mounts directly to the 9-11mm dovetail on the Chaser/Airbug/Artemis CP2 and the like... Reviews are mixed on these, so asking HERE if any members have first-hand experience with these. I have a Sig Romeo5 on my Airbug, but you need an adapter to install it. I do like the idea of the direct-to-dovetail mounting of the Hawke, no adapter needed. It will be going on my brother's new CP2. He really prefers a "tube-style" red dot like the Ultra-Dot, but geez the UD folks are quite proud of those ($200++). Seems silly to spend MORE on the red dot than the entire CP2 pistol/rifle kit cost:unsure::unsure:. The Hawke--while not cheap by any means, seems a more reasonable choice. Open to any and all advice, though, on a 2-3 min dot size unit that would work satisfactorily on these pistols. I KNOW the Sig is pretty decent, no problems from mine at all. Might just get another Sig if the Hawke 12-106 is not well-approved here by the brethren. I have heard the Sig has sold for as little as $69 recently. I'll get details if anyone else is interested. A friend just got a couple of the Sigs.

As an aside, the two CP2's (one for ME, one for HE {my brother} that is:)) that I ordered from Krale.shop are supposed to be here today (Monday). Hopefully they arrive in good condition, all the way from the Netherlands no less. Three days later they are HERE in the states. I'll report back after I have given them a thorough check-out.
 
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Marflow777 and others--- Thinking about the Hawke model 12-106 red dot, the one that mounts directly to the 9-11mm dovetail on the Chaser/Airbug/Artemis CP2 and the like... Reviews are mixed on these, so asking HERE if any members have first-hand experience with these. I have a Sig Romeo5 on my Airbug, but you need an adapter to install it. I do like the idea of the direct-to-dovetail mounting of the Hawke, no adapter needed. It will be going on my brother's new CP2. He really prefers a "tube-style" red dot like the Ultra-Dot, but geez the UD folks are quite proud of those ($200++). Seems silly to spend MORE on the red dot than the entire CP2 pistol/rifle kit cost:unsure::unsure:. The Hawke--while not cheap by any means, seems a more reasonable choice. Open to any and all advice, though, on a 2-3 min dot size unit that would work satisfactorily on these pistols. I KNOW the Sig is pretty decent, no problems from mine at all. Might just get another Sig if the Hawke 12-106 is not well-approved here by the brethren. I have heard the Sig has sold for as little as $69 recently. I'll get details if anyone else is interested. A friend just got a couple of the Sigs.

As an aside, the two CP2's (one for ME, one for HE {my brother} that is:)) that I ordered from Krale.shop are supposed to be here today (Monday). Hopefully they arrive in good condition, all the way from the Netherlands no less. Three days later they are HERE in the states. I'll report back after I have given them a thorough check-out.

So, I received the .22 cal Artemis CP2 kits (pistol/rifle) from Krale.shop yesterday (4/22) afternoon. Outer packing box had some minor damage, but not bad considering that it was shipped all the way from the Netherlands. Thankfully, the CP2's inside were well padded, and also have the added protection of the factory form-fitting foam in their factory packing boxes, so all arrived in perfect condition. Quick inspection of both CP2's indicated no obvious factory defects. Started cleaning the "gunk" out of the barrels, took MANY patches/solvent to get them somewhat clean. Black gunk at first, then brownish gunk, then fairly clean patches. VERY dirty at first, perhaps some preservative material of some sort? Did some deburring work on the drilled CO2 transfer ports, I don't understand WHY Snowpeak cannot place a metal plug inside the barrel tenon before drilling the transfer ports, then remove the plug. That would eliminate any potential burr from forming in the ID of the barrel tenon. OR, at least have some sort of small internal de-burring tool operation, and remove the burr after drilling that port. Well, I guess it would take another minute or two during production, so THAT'S probably why it's NOT done that way. So "WE" get to do the deburring instead of Snowpeak:rolleyes:;). That's about as far as I got yesterday. For Marflow777-- both of the CP2's triggers do NOT have the "front" adjustment screw, so I believe it is safe to conclude THAT feature is exclusive to the Diana DIT trigger used on the Chaser/Airbug. May be why the CP2 is cheaper as well, one less feature to incorporate into the build? Another curiousity is the material used for the two o-rings on the barrel tenons. Artemis uses an opaque, whitish colored o-ring. Seems like these have a "tougher" durometer rating as well. Don't know exactly WHAT this o-ring material is, that Artemis is using here, but would sure like to find out. It's very easy to damage the "normal" Buna-N orings when swapping barrels out. Also, these o-rings appear to be 1mm CS, NOT 0.8mm CS like the Diana Chaser/Airbug uses. Hhhmmnn.....

Anyway, I'll probably fool around with both CP2's today, and hopefully get them shooting. Still looking for comments on that Hawke 12-106 red dot sight (or similar) that mounts directly to the receiver dovetail. And, in terms of a "tube-style" dot, I'm looking for recommendations there as well. Something decent, but priced less than the UltraDots. The UD's are nice, but way too pricey for me. The last one (1-inch tube Gen2 UD) I had exhibited a TON of parallax as well at short (airgun) yardages as well, I sent it back and got the Sig Romeo5 for myself. NO parallax I could see in the Sig R5 dot.
 
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i believe that the Chaser and CP2 are transitioning to variant 2
the pictures of the Chaser kit on Airgun Depot show no front trigger screw now
how long it take the old stock to be sold and the new stock to be shipped is unknown
the .8mm barrel breech Orings vs a 1mm Oring could be a change because of the fragile nature of .8mm Orings in general and the change to say Urethane vs Buna would also make sense because of durability
the cost of doing the trigger would have been small at best but a corner that has been cut and now as we owners and posters will have to start doing is make sure which version of the Chaser and or CP2 we are talking about
for us that know our way around this model we can do what we want and understand what it will do but for the newbie, the non-tinkerer they will not know how to improve the trigger and make the most of there purchase
i do not own the Hawke model and i looked for reviews yesterday and found nothing
there are 2 reviews on PA one great and one that complained about the end covers
good Reflex and Red dot sights are expensive but where the line is of good and bad are is hard to say
i have many 25 buck reflex sights they are small and light and did i mention cheap
i think the larger red dots are better because of field of view offered

my name is mike
 
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i believe that the Chaser and CP2 are transitioning to variant 2
the pictures of the Chaser kit on Airgun Depot show no front trigger screw now
how long it take the old stock to be sold and the new stock to be shipped is unknown
the .8mm barrel breech Orings vs a 1mm Oring could be a change because of the fragile nature of .8mm Orings in general and the change to say Urethane vs Buna would also make sense because of durability
the cost of doing the trigger would have been small at best but a corner that has been cut and now as we owners and posters will have to start doing is make sure which version of the Chaser and or CP2 we are talking about
for us that know our way around this model we can do what we want and understand what it will do but for the newbie, the non-tinkerer they will not know how to improve the trigger and make the most of there purchase
i do not own the Hawke model and i looked for reviews yesterday and found nothing
there are 2 reviews on PA one great and one that complained about the end covers
good Reflex and Red dot sights are expensive but where the line is of good and bad are is hard to say
i have many 25 buck reflex sights they are small and light and did i mention cheap
i think the larger red dots are better because of field of view offered

my name is mike

Mike, thanks for that info. I'm wondering if deleting that screw was more of a "we don't want folks messing with the trigger settings" kind of thing, because it sure couldn't have saved Snowpeak very much in manufacturing costs. The "front" screw is still THERE, you just can't access it without removing the stock. The o-ring change, at least on the Artemis, is good from a durability standpoint. They DO look like a urethane material is used, again, at least on the CP2. I'm still deciding on what red dot to get for my brother. Those Hawke models that attach directly to the dovetail are calling to me, but I have to get a look at the sight itself, and the "crispness and roundness" of the dot before I plunk down my cash.
 
you mean the rear screw is still there
you could use the rear screw do all the work but you would need it to be 10-12mm
you could add a 3mm grub screw at the top of trigger without drilling through
you could use it as a starting point to where the sear sits on the hammer and in reality that is what it was doing in the first place
do i think the liability lawyers did this 100%
oh well it is done and we as owner have 2 choices leave it or tinker with it
 
1-you mean the rear screw is still there
2-you could use the rear screw do all the work but you would need it to be 10-12mm
3-you could add a 3mm grub screw at the top of trigger without drilling through

you could use it as a starting point to where the sear sits on the hammer and in reality that is what it was doing in the first place
do i think the liability lawyers did this 100%
oh well it is done and we as owner have 2 choices leave it or tinker with it
1- No Mike, I mean the FRONT trigger screw is still there, what "they" did was drill/tap the hole for it from the (3)TOPSIDE of the trigger. The hole does NOT extend down through the trigger bow. So, to adjust it (the "front" screw), you have to remove the action from the stock, and then the trigger bow itself, to get TO it. I think, if one really WANTED to, you could remove that screw, vice up the trigger in a drill press using that hole as a guide (for proper angle) to drill completely through the trigger bow (from the top of the trigger), then "through" tap it, and then insert a suitable screw from the BOTTOM side, the same as the Diana DIT trigger shoe. You would then also have to cut a slot in the trigger guard for access as well. That's a LOT of work though, MUCH easier to simply adjust it from the TOPSIDE of the trigger. This DOES require removal of the trigger pin/trigger to access and adjust that screw though. So, adjust the screw, reinstall trigger, TRY it, lather-rinse-repeat until satisfied with the setting. But no big deal to do so. The "rear" trigger screw (it's there) can be adjusted by that same process as well. All this is clear as mud, right? Sorry for my crappy writing. I'll get a pic up later of the trigger so it will be clear(er) I hope. One more thing--as you mentioned, (2) the rear trigger adjust screw may need to be changed to a slightly longer one to get enough adjustment "range".
 
1- No Mike, I mean the FRONT trigger screw is still there, what "they" did was drill/tap the hole for it from the (3)TOPSIDE of the trigger. The hole does NOT extend down through the trigger bow. So, to adjust it (the "front" screw), you have to remove the action from the stock, and then the trigger bow itself, to get TO it. I think, if one really WANTED to, you could remove that screw, vice up the trigger in a drill press using that hole as a guide (for proper angle) to drill completely through the trigger bow (from the top of the trigger), then "through" tap it, and then insert a suitable screw from the BOTTOM side, the same as the Diana DIT trigger shoe. You would then also have to cut a slot in the trigger guard for access as well. That's a LOT of work though, MUCH easier to simply adjust it from the TOPSIDE of the trigger. This DOES require removal of the trigger pin/trigger to access and adjust that screw though. So, adjust the screw, reinstall trigger, TRY it, lather-rinse-repeat until satisfied with the setting. But no big deal to do so. The "rear" trigger screw (it's there) can be adjusted by that same process as well. All this is clear as mud, right? Sorry for my crappy writing. I'll get a pic up later of the trigger so it will be clear(er) I hope. One more thing--as you mentioned, (2) the rear trigger adjust screw may need to be changed to a slightly longer one to get enough adjustment "range".

Addendum: to Mike and others--- Wow, I don't know what I was thinking here regarding the Diana DIT trigger, and the Artemis CP2 trigger I have been trying to describe. Just a bit ago, I pulled apart both triggers for inspection. The takeaway here is to disregard the above paragraph (my reply to Mike), and I do offer my sincere apologies to everyone for the faulty info. HERE is the correct info, with pics attached (hopefully). Turns out that these two triggers are quite a bit different. The Diana DIT has THREE screws in the top of the trigger, and the Artemis only two. Mike was RIGHT with his observation that the FRONT adjustment screw was deleted entirely on the Artemis. The middle and rear screw do still remain. Also, the sear lever (not sure what else to call it) is definitely LONGER in the Diana DIT by about 0.125", or 1/8 inch, this in order to "match up" with front trigger screw. So, if one could get ahold of the Diana DIT's longer sear lever and 3-screw trigger, the DIT could be duplicated and used in the Artemis. Actually, just the longer sear lever would suffice, IF one could drill/tap the Artemis trigger to accept that 3rd (front) trigger screw. Check out the pics, and again, apologies for that faulty info previously posted.

image1.jpeg
image2.jpeg
image3.jpeg
image4.jpeg
image0.jpeg
 
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well, this is interesting and sad at the same time
the shorter sear could be the problem here but that can be worked around by overlaying a .5mm stainless strip and gaining the length back
and the trigger can be fixed by what you wrote before or try to use the safety spring tension grub screw as a front sear adjustment screw it is 4mm and i thing 4mm long i have taken mine and made them sit flush
so they changed the pieces and they would have to be worked in a different way but not that hard really
 
well, this is interesting and sad at the same time
the shorter sear could be the problem here but that can be worked around by overlaying a .5mm stainless strip and gaining the length back
and the trigger can be fixed by what you wrote before or try to use the safety spring tension grub screw as a front sear adjustment screw it is 4mm and i thing 4mm long i have taken mine and made them sit flush
so they changed the pieces and they would have to be worked in a different way but not that hard really
The safety tension grub screw can be used in that manner on the CP2 by screwing it CCW whatever amount is needed to increase the 1st stage travel (initial sear lever movement). At the same time, this reduces the 2nd stage travel. That's pretty much how the CP2 trigger is set up. It's kind of a balancing act, because one adjustment affects the other. If you need more 1st stage adjustment, a slightly longer screw may be required, in order to maintain adequate tension on the safety "button". Hope that makes sense.
 
what they have done is remove the leverage that you had with the other setup and sort of when back to what the CP1 has
now you mention 2 stage trigger and i believe the CP2 or Chaser has always had a 1 stage trigger and the why is that a true 2 stage trigger has 2 points of contact that never touch the sear and or assembly parts of the trigger before you start to pull the trigger
the Chaser has the front screw pushing the sear and to be more precise adjusting the sear and trigger pull and take up
now could the safety grub screw be used as the starting point for sear disengagement and also be used as the adjustment screw for the safety spring pressure
i think the answer is yes but how
once the safety is taken apart and grease which all need and is set to where you like it, in theory it should never need to be touched again
so, do we use a longer screw, i think that is one way but the options could be a problem for setup how many screws would you need and is the 4 mm size to big
option
allen key epoxied in the screw,
you could get the screw out again if needed and the piece to be cut to size is also cheap enough

so, using the safe spring tensioner is plausible idea and cheap enough to try

we are on the same page just looking at from a few different ways

but i will tell you a trigger stop will be the most important part of the overall trigger feel and that can be done as have done it by drilling and tapping the sear or just placing some sort of material under the sear

you look at a Crosman 2300s or their custom shop grip frames and that trigger stop makes the trigger feel completely different and not because of the trigger feel but how it ends


i have said and will say the shorter time you are on a trigger the better accuracy you will have

in this case with these guns you can do nothing and or everything with their triggers, i was just one that did everything
 
what they have done is remove the leverage that you had with the other setup and sort of when back to what the CP1 has
now you mention 2 stage trigger and i believe the CP2 or Chaser has always had a 1 stage trigger and the why is that a true 2 stage trigger has 2 points of contact that never touch the sear and or assembly parts of the trigger before you start to pull the trigger
the Chaser has the front screw pushing the sear and to be more precise adjusting the sear and trigger pull and take up
now could the safety grub screw be used as the starting point for sear disengagement and also be used as the adjustment screw for the safety spring pressure
i think the answer is yes but how
once the safety is taken apart and grease which all need and is set to where you like it, in theory it should never need to be touched again
so, do we use a longer screw, i think that is one way but the options could be a problem for setup how many screws would you need and is the 4 mm size to big
option
allen key epoxied in the screw,
you could get the screw out again if needed and the piece to be cut to size is also cheap enough

so, using the safe spring tensioner is plausible idea and cheap enough to try

we are on the same page just looking at from a few different ways

but i will tell you a trigger stop will be the most important part of the overall trigger feel and that can be done as have done it by drilling and tapping the sear or just placing some sort of material under the sear

you look at a Crosman 2300s or their custom shop grip frames and that trigger stop makes the trigger feel completely different and not because of the trigger feel but how it ends


i have said and will say the shorter time you are on a trigger the better accuracy you will have

in this case with these guns you can do nothing and or everything with their triggers, i was just one that did everything
Mike, indeed you DID (everything, that is)! I like your idea about the allen key "piece" in the safety tension grub screw. I may try that just for s&g's. I'm wondering, though, if Snowpeak would sell us the longer sear lever used in the DIT? I'm gonna contact them and see. If one could obtain that lever, all you would have to do is drill/tap the trigger bow for that 3rd (front) screw. Easy enough to do viced up in a drill press. And presto, a Diana DIT trigger in the Artemis CP2. Now that would be pretty cool.
 
well, you have the 2-sears mix and match and see if the short one will work in the DIT gun
parts are a SOB to find and if found they are way over priced.
i believe Air Venturi is the importer for the Snowpeak products for Diana, if you got a response back from Snowpeak i would be surprised
Pryamyd Air would know who to contact

after taking a good look at one of my Chasers the new sear front edge appears to be right where the front screw would be with the old trigger
the amount of preset on mine is 2mm minus so a half circle glued to the new trigger would give you the preset that the front trigger screw once did
and remember it's purpose was to set the sear and take up trigger travel
would the safety tension screw also work, again it would because it would be doing the same job as the front trigger screw

all i see here is stupidity
 
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well, you have the 2-sears mix and match and see if the short one will work in the DIT gun
parts are a SOB to find and if found they are way over priced.
i believe Air Venturi is the importer for the Snowpeak products for Diana, if you got a response back from Snowpeak i would be surprised
Pryamyd Air would know who to contact

after taking a good look at one of my Chasers the new sear front edge appears to be right where the front screw would be with the old trigger
the amount of preset on mine is 2mm minus so a half circle glued to the new trigger would give you the preset that the front trigger screw once did
and remember it's purpose was to set the sear and take up trigger travel
would the safety tension screw also work, again it would because it would be doing the same job as the front trigger screw

all i see here is stupidity
Mike, kinda agree with you on the "stupidity" thing. It's really not clear why Snowpeak assembles the Artemis with that shorter sear lever/2-screw trigger. Maybe it's a "Diana" brand only thing with the DIT trigger? I made some inquiries regarding possibly obtaining the Diana (longer) sear lever and a 3-screw trigger, but was turned down (albeit nicely) by the "first" source. I still have high hopes of obtaining same from a "second" source though, we shall see. In the meantime, I was thinking about your idea of using the safety button grub screw as a 1st stage TRIGGER adjustment screw. What I ended up doing was REVERSING that grub screw, such that the flat "allen" head side was DOWN, but still providing the needed spring tension on the safety button. I was able to thread the grub screw into the trigger a couple threads (plenty) by hand, no allen wrench necessary. A bonus is the safety button now works very nicely as well, a bit less tension on it you see... and just fine with me. Now, being how the OTHER end of that grub screw is nicely shaped, and is now pointing UP towards the sear lever, it now glides on the sear lever very nicely as you "work" the trigger. A little adjustment/tweaking on that screw, AND the existing REAR trigger adjustment screw, and presto, a VERY nicely breaking/crisp trigger pull on my Artemis CP2. Satisfied with my adjustments, I went back and put a tiny drop of "purple" LocTite on the exposed threads of both adjustment screws, my thinking is that a sufficient amount will "wick" into the threads and thereby hold my adjustments. Very happy with the CP2's trigger pull/break at this point. Please note, I don't recommend anyone use the technique described above, especially if you are NOT experienced working on triggers, and/or don't have a firm understanding of how this trigger functions.
 
so, you have outsmarted the Lawyers
i have taken every safety out because they install them dry, no lube, and add grease
now i know you are happy but work on the trigger stop idea just shim the area under the sear, the material is not important but when you know when the trigger is pulled it will not move anymore is worth the effort
Mike, no need to bring the Lawyers into this discussion:);). The trigger now has a nice smooth 1st stage right up to the "wall" (beginning of the 2nd stage). A bit of added pressure (you're on the 2nd stage now), and then a nice clean, crisp break. Really happy how it turned out. Sometimes it's the simplest things, like "reversing" the safety button grub screw, that can yield significant benefits. This kind of thing does not happen too often though. I will also have to work on/add your trigger stop idea, adding a "stop" to this CP2 trigger will be like icing the cake! Thanks for all your ideas, pics, etc on making these triggers as good as they can be. In this case, perhaps we HAVE made a silk purse out of a sow's ear(y):D.