Diana Chaser Suppressor

Fellas, anyone that owns a Diana Chaser rifle kit. You can take off the suppressor from the rifle barrel 2 ways. 1st way, take a heat gun or hair dryer heat up where it mounts to the barrel as it has red locktite, why it does not need it and then with a rag unscrew it. 2nd way boil up a pot of hot water, dip in the suppressor for about a minute then unscrew it with a rag (hot), now you have a suppressor for both the rifle kit or for just the pistol and you can also use the barrel band on the pistol.
The Spudman
 
one of the big problems is you have nothing to hold on to
and i would do this with the barrel off
so if you have a vise and a set of soft jaws then you have some place to hold the moderator and i have found that the front sight will take some pressure as the twisting point but you need to cover or have soft jaw pliers
but those are what i did after much heat
the other one just unscrewed, so, i had one tough one and one easy one
 
With mine, I pulled the barrel, wrapped it in low-tack masking tape to protect the blueing and clamped it in the smooth jawed vice on my milling machine. Heated it up with a heat gun I use to shrink the covering on my R/C planes, put on a welding glove and then grabbed it with one of those kitchen rubber gripping pads they sell for unscrewing jar lids. Came right off.

Been having fun experimenting with different configurations. Also, the barrels and many of the Chaser parts are interchangeable with the Airbug if it's in the same caliber. Lots of possibilities. My current setup-

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took one off tonight and it was a bit of work heated and put is vise but spun in the soft jaws
put some rubber gloves around it and nothing and i am using soft jaw pliers and twisting at the front sight so back to the heat
and tried again with success
so, heating twice could be the trick but a big vise is the tool you need with some soft jaws
it is really absurd that they have so much red Loctite
the bottom line is they do not what you to take them off
 
yes the adapters do make more sense and i have done the same
and the one i worked on tonight the modulator had unscrewed at the rear part on the barrel and in reality, the modulator is well made as is the rest of the Chaser and somehow i now have 7 of them, i must store them apart or they will breed till my house is over run
i think i am going to make this one a .25 caliber just for laughs
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With mine, I pulled the barrel, wrapped it in low-tack masking tape to protect the blueing and clamped it in the smooth jawed vice on my milling machine. Heated it up with a heat gun I use to shrink the covering on my R/C planes, put on a welding glove and then grabbed it with one of those kitchen rubber gripping pads they sell for unscrewing jar lids. Came right off.

Been having fun experimenting with different configurations. Also, the barrels and many of the Chaser parts are interchangeable with the Airbug if it's in the same caliber. Lots of possibilities. My current setup-

View attachment 374141
Nice, very nice.
 
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yes the adapters do make more sense and i have done the same
and the one i worked on tonight the modulator had unscrewed at the rear part on the barrel and in reality, the modulator is well made as is the rest of the Chaser and somehow i now have 7 of them, i must store them apart or they will breed till my house is over run
i think i am going to make this one a .25 caliber just for laughs
View attachment 374811
What is top/bottom adapter attachment are you using?
 
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the rail is M-Lok they have to be 4.5 inches 13 slot to reach and the height has to be reworked but not hard to another set
the front mount brake is off PA and so is the sight which is the plastic one they sell but it takes 17.2 Anschutz inserts
there is a Marauder pistol 1/2 - 20 adapter that was resized to fit the brake and epoxied in place
the front barrel band is the double one that cannot be found any more that has the curved part cut off to make it straight
the mount under the band is also M-Lok 5 slot and it is screw in place and epoxied.
barrel is Stormride cut to 13 inch
that is the .177 i have also done one in .22
and the whole trigger assembly has been rebuilt, new pins, screws, shims, polish and a trigger stop added to the sear
the trigger has 1.5mm of movement and somehow i own 7 Chasers and much more
 
With mine, I pulled the barrel, wrapped it in low-tack masking tape to protect the blueing and clamped it in the smooth jawed vice on my milling machine. Heated it up with a heat gun I use to shrink the covering on my R/C planes, put on a welding glove and then grabbed it with one of those kitchen rubber gripping pads they sell for unscrewing jar lids. Came right off.

Been having fun experimenting with different configurations. Also, the barrels and many of the Chaser parts are interchangeable with the Airbug if it's in the same caliber. Lots of possibilities. My current setup-

View attachment 374141
Is that barrel band on the front the one that came with it? If so, how did you get the sight off of it?
 
no the barrel bands i think came off the Stormrider and PA was selling them, but no one sell the 2-screw version anymore.
the front sights are easy, block of wood tap, tap, tap and off they come
i was working on a Chaser today that i got in a couple weeks ago and had to do the trigger rebuild and i wanted to remove the rear plug and i know take the whole gun apart and tap it out
well it did not tap out but took a real smack, it was way over sized, like they put it is frozen
i happen to have an aluminum pipe, tube the right size to go over the spring guide and it took a real smack and much sanding to refit
these have to be the easiest pistol to work on, they are very well made
for those who haven't seen the 3-D printed frames at Buck Rail take a look
now here is something stupid you can do BR frame, 1911 adapter and a set of Herrett grips price tag stupid

just they just for fun
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Is that barrel band on the front the one that came with it? If so, how did you get the sight off of it?
Yeah, it came with the Chaser kit. To remove the sight, unscrew and remove the elevation screw, then tap the sight base from the front with a nylon punch or piece of wood. Slides right off. Filled the empty hole with an 8-32 plug screw.